single sided swingarm looks sick man, and i love those f4i plastics. how long is it taking you so far???

 

This project has cost me a small fortune, and I've spent more time than I can remember toying around with stuff. If I were to estimate, probably close to 200-500 hours. Considering I would put 6 hours in at a time.

Cost wise, probably close 1500$ plus or minus.

The front cowl is attached to the f4i stay which is then attached to mounting plate that joins the f3 frame to the f4i stay.

I found the best approach to putting the plastic on is to attach it all to the cowl, put the headlight in, as that will cut down on the cowl bending and flexing during the install. Then I started pushing things around. Ill do a nice writeup.

I have an extra stay bar but its bent a little.

 

I went to home depot, bought a joice plate, its about 6" x 4", and has holes all over it. Its meant for framing. I went and made my holes for mounting the plate to the f3 stay bracket. Then with attached to the bike, I slid the f4i stay in-between the two plates. I left the f4i stay floating, so I could then move it all around with the fairings.

The goal here is to find the best place to mount the front fairing so that its not putting undo stress on the side fairings. So once I found a good spot for the side fairings, I tied 1/8" decorative ribbon to both side fairings, then wrapped it around the handlebars to keep it in place while you figure things out. This was the hardest part, because the f4i fairings require some eyeballing to trim things. For instance I found the left fairing with the Satori cover was a good spot to align up, but the last hole to connect the fairing, by the kick stand, I counldnt use the hole provided. If I did, it warped the plastic, and make the top of the fairing tight.

The using I made my side mounts. The right side is a bit different. I had to cut a hole out for the clutch wire. Ill take a photo of it tonight.

My goal was to be able to take either the side fairing, or cowl off without other things fallinning off during a maintainsnce. And also to make sure the tabs on the cowl don't break off during mild abuse. Too tight and you could break the tabs off.

Anyhow....

 

well, so far it is amazing project. just wait till its all done. the satisfaction youll have.

hows that offset going for you??? whats the plan for that?

 

great job im starting mine this month hope im done before summers over

 

Motorbob, if your just doing the sidearm, it wont take too long. Just get all the parts first. The main thing is making that spacer, and getting the shock mount working. I would advise that if your going to stick with your OEM shock, your going to need a lowering kit. Something along the lines of what I picked up would be ok. Mind you, valkie did his f3 sssa using the bottom mount, and created a prolink that would not require any welding. But from what I saw, it would take a lot of tinkering. If your on a budget and want to ride by the end of the summer, try getting the 750 with the top mount shock link. Without the welding, I probably could have gotten everything done for the sssa done in a weekend. You'll still need to have the swingarm bolt machined shorter, then threaded. Aside from that, the rest you can do yourself. The stillbirth I had to buy was expensive, but if you want, I can ship it out to you for a nominal price. You will still need to get a dremel or other grinding tool to get that extra 1mm, but that's not as bad as it seems.

Let me know and good luck.

Oh, when you get your hands on the sssa, make sure it comes with.some tools. In order to tighten the chain, there is a c-pin tool you need. I bought something at the hardware store that's similar. But would have preferred the right tool.

 

Aghast, autocorrect... not stillbirth, drill bit!!!

Damn. That's some autocorrection.

 

lol,really i was like what?, any who..thankx that a be awsome ill def get bck to on that,i appriciate all the advice

 

The drill bit you can get from a hardware store. you need roughly a 21mm opening to get a nice smooth opening. The problem is that the biggest drill bit i could find (that would not make the opening too big) that would go through aluminium was 19.5mm. I used a dremel with a sanding bit to get the rest. Then i used a dremel and steel brush tip to polish the opening and get rid of any burrs. The first opening took me something like 3 hours, the second one took me 45 minutes. opening up the bolt hole takes some time and patience. Just remember, when you alter your frame to fit the vfr swing arm bolt you will NOT be able to use your old swing arm and bolt. you will need to make a collar to use the smaller bolt. not a big deal, but if you ever wanted to do OEM, you would need to keep that in mind.

Also, this is my makeshift F4i to F3 staybar adapter.



First try, got it. OF course, it took me 3 hours of fiddling to make it work.

 

Funny about the "stillbirth", I thought that I missed something in this thread.
Anyways, all the VFRs and RVFs had a "c-spanner". I have one for my NC30, thank God!