2007 Honda cbr stop running while riding and smoke coming from exhaust
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yeah, frustrating tossing parts & money at problem. Your flow-test shows pump flowing plenty and filtre's not clogged so I'd keep them. Test with old FPR with properly installed clip. AND wrap stainless hose-clamp around whole thing just to be sure. If testing successful return new FPR.
Personally, in my earlier years, what I've done is ride around block multiple times to gauge reliability. So I'll pick 1-mile loop. Furthest I'll have to push it is 1/2-mile.
Nowadays I have trailer, so I'll do bigger loops like 5-miles and if I get stranded, I'll just jog 2.5-miles and get trailer to tow it back myself. Strangely enough, never had to do that after getting trailer! Kinda like having spares at track, guarantees that part will never fail.
Personally, in my earlier years, what I've done is ride around block multiple times to gauge reliability. So I'll pick 1-mile loop. Furthest I'll have to push it is 1/2-mile.
Nowadays I have trailer, so I'll do bigger loops like 5-miles and if I get stranded, I'll just jog 2.5-miles and get trailer to tow it back myself. Strangely enough, never had to do that after getting trailer! Kinda like having spares at track, guarantees that part will never fail.
Last edited by Hariscbr1000rr; May 7, 2023 at 03:27 PM.
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so far the bike has been good took it another 40 miles without issues.I didn’t take the pump back out yet I went to enjoy it before I take it apart again.I had another question about the headlights.I read to not pass 70 watts for the headlights because it melts the housing and wires.I got 100 watts 50 watts each bulb.Is it safe or is it saying that pass 70 watts overall.
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From: Mesa, AZ
so far the bike has been good took it another 40 miles without issues.I didn’t take the pump back out yet I went to enjoy it before I take it apart again.I had another question about the headlights.I read to not pass 70 watts for the headlights because it melts the housing and wires.I got 100 watts 50 watts each bulb.Is it safe or is it saying that pass 70 watts overall.
Wires and switches are most vulnerable. Normal low-beam sends all power through start-button. This will eventually burn out contacts on starter-button and headlights won't turn back on after you release start-button. High-beam, has relay to switch power from fuse-A, so it should be fine.
Personally, I replace high-beam relay with 5-pin Bosch-type with NC/NO switching. So normal off-state of relay passes (30) power straight to low-beams (87a). Then high-beam switch flips relay and it connects power to high-beams (87).
Last edited by dannoxyz; May 11, 2023 at 07:24 PM.
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Awesome news!
Wires and switches are most vulnerable. Normal low-beam sends all power through start-button. This will eventually burn out contacts on starter-button and headlights won't turn back on after you release start-button. High-beam, has relay to switch power from fuse-A, so it should be fine.
Personally, I replace high-beam relay with 5-pin Bosch-type with NC/NO switching. So normal off-state of relay passes (30) power straight to low-beams (87a). Then high-beam switch flips relay and it connects power to high-beams (87).
Wires and switches are most vulnerable. Normal low-beam sends all power through start-button. This will eventually burn out contacts on starter-button and headlights won't turn back on after you release start-button. High-beam, has relay to switch power from fuse-A, so it should be fine.
Personally, I replace high-beam relay with 5-pin Bosch-type with NC/NO switching. So normal off-state of relay passes (30) power straight to low-beams (87a). Then high-beam switch flips relay and it connects power to high-beams (87).
