I doubt it. The biggest air gap I saw advertised with any hall sensor that I looked up was 1-2 mm. I'm at least 5mm away.

I'll check, though.

What do you think about "desensitizing" the knock sensor with a few resistors so I can mount on the head? A lot of LS motor guys do that to get stop faulty knock readings when they go forced induction. There just isn't a good place to put it on the top case on the back of the motor. The back of the case around the cylinders isn't flat. Could I make a flat surface with some JB weld or something so that it'll mount where it's supposed to be mounted?

 

I really don't know about the knock sensor. But if you can't mount it anywhere whitout lot of effort i would bypass it.

What is the airgap whit the oem 954 cam sensor? Do you know anyone whit 08+ 1000RR that you could check it. I wouldn't start grinding the head if it isn't necassery. Here is a photo of the sensor in the cylinder head cover.



And here is the head whit cams where you can see the rotor.

 

I have bypassed knock sensors on cars plenty without ill effects, however I have also ran full programmable ecms when doing so. Based on the theory of operation of knock sensors, picking up resonance, Im not sure how it would work mounted to jbweld. However, if you can say, jb weld a washer to the block, giving a flat surface, then bolt the sensor to that, you will have direct metal contact between the washer and sensor and also the bolt and sensor. That should provide sufficient transference in the case you actually need it.
If you bypass it, it's not a big deal you just have to make sure that it isn't a consistently monitored sensor .Otherwise you will have to figure out a way to fake it. Kinda like the mil eliminators used in mustangs when removing the rear o2 sensors.
As far as desensitizing it, that's usually reserved for boosted applications like you stated , due to cylinder pressures being higher. You can try it though if ya run into any issues.

 

That's a good idea. I think I can make something work with a bushing that's JB welded to the case. That way I can tap the middle (for the sensor), and I'll have more than enough room for the knock sensor to be metal-to-metal with the bushing and for the bushing to be metal-to-metal with the case.


I don't know how I'll get a measurement for the airgap on the 1000rr. On the 954, you can measure it with the valve cover off - but with it the sensor being ON the cover on the 1000rr - it'll be more difficult. I don't think there will be a problem with it being too close (as in the same distance as the 954's...

 

It don't matter if it's closer. On the 1000RR you would have to take the sensor of the cover and see how close is the rotor to the valve cover and then add the lenght of the sensor when it is mounted. You would just need to get your hands on the 08 1000RR.

 

Got some work done today.

I pulled a little bit of ebay "trickery". I had a hunch that the 900rr (98-99) used the same exact stem as the 954. So I was able to get my hands on a triple tree from a 900rr for $25 shipped (to use the stem) and then sold my 954 triple tree for a whole lot more. Plus I was able to get the hardware I was missing.

Anyways, here are the stems sitting side by side



Here's everything pressed into my my bottom tree



Here's everything all together. It looks EXACTLY how I wanted it to. Big and beefy!



Here's what the frame looks like after I grinded off the tab. (Don't worry, it will be patched before the bike is on the road)



Here's the triple tree installed on the bike.



Here's what it could look like with the bars (although I AM switching to drag bars - so these bars are for sale - ask me if you're interested)



Check out how close I was able to get the specs on the triple tree. Mike from Diamond Back Designs NAILED IT! Diamondback Designs - Home is his website. I know some of you asked me about who did the machine work.

 

What bearings do you on have on the stem? I planned allso changing them but i would like to change to needle bearings and my oems are ball bearings.

 

It's a set of tapered rollers for a 954 from AllBallsRacing. They sell the whole kit, it comes with everything you need - dust seals, frame bearing races, bearings,etc. I can't remember exactly how much it cost - but I do know it's really reasonable.

 

Thanks! I will checked out. One shop near me allso has a set listed in their webshop but i'm not sure is it a example picture of this manufacturers bearings and the real ones for my bike are ball bearings and not sure about the quality of them. They are cheap replacement bearings

 

The tapered rollers are way better than the *****.

I bought an R1 gas tank and airbox cover. I don't think it'll be a direct fit, but it's the sort of tank layout I'm going to have to use. You can look at the pictures above and see how "tall" the 1000rr air box/secondary injectors/ECU is. Another thing is that the R1 seems to use the same fuel pump as the 1000rr which means it's one less thing I'll have to modify/hack up on the bottom. It should be here by next weekend or the beginning of next week. I'll be getting into the garage with it as soon as it gets here.

And I'm going to be using a 1000rr radiator (08-11). It'll be plug and play once I figure out the mounts for it since it uses 2 fans already. It's shorter than a 04-05 1000rr radiator which was just a tad too tall to fit. Also, the Hindle headers route closer to the engine than the stock headers do - so the radiator can sit closer to the engine too - giving it more room to fit (and on the 1000rr, the radiator TOUCHES the headers - so I'm not worried about it being too close)

And as far as the subframe - I saw an idea on CF that seems way too cool to not think about.

Carbon Fiber square tube subframe

http://www.dragonplate.com

1) A carbon fiber sub frame would be cool
2) It'd be easy to build. The company that makes .75 square tube (same size as the aluminum square tube) also makes carbon fiber gussets that you can rivet the square tube while the epoxy sets
3) I could build it for about $150 total (modifying an aluminum subframe and then having to have it pro welded (aluminum - heat treated, strength tested, etc) would cost more)