Conrice's 954 FIGHTER build thread
Ok, so the 3 wire cam sensor is a HALL sensor on the 1000rr vs. the 2 wire sensor which is a MAGNETIC sensor.
So that will have to change. The RR plug sits on the valve cover, so it's short vs the 954 one that goes up through the cylinder head.
Just how close to the shutter wheel do you think the sensor needs to be. Putting a 1000rr one physically into the mount for the 954 one will work, but it will be about 3/8 of an inch shorter than the stock one. Do you think it'll still work if it's that much shorter?
So that will have to change. The RR plug sits on the valve cover, so it's short vs the 954 one that goes up through the cylinder head.
Just how close to the shutter wheel do you think the sensor needs to be. Putting a 1000rr one physically into the mount for the 954 one will work, but it will be about 3/8 of an inch shorter than the stock one. Do you think it'll still work if it's that much shorter?
Alright, I'm up. Sorry. Ok, I can answer a couple questions I think. First the type of knock sensor isnt really important since you are going to be using, I assume, the factory ecu to start. Resonance and non resonance just identifies the way they are tuned. One wire versus two wire, etc. Not a concern at the moment. As for your knock sensor, on the 08 and up 1000rr they are simply bolted to the head, on stock motors it is under the thermostat, basically just find a hole for a bolt on your head and thread it in, no worries. With the factory ecu it will function as designed. This is from a parts fiche and also a 08 1000rr manual I have....


As for the hall versus magnetic sensor, Im not familiar with your engine mind you, but it would depend on how close the sensor is to the trigger wheel. Also may want to check the rr part to see if the trigger wheel is different. Magnetic are usually square cut, where as halls are more sprocket designeed. A hall sensor can read quicker inputs which is why most are going to them. It may not matter in your case, but it is something to look at. May have to figure out a different way to mount it. If I can help anymore lemme know.


As for the hall versus magnetic sensor, Im not familiar with your engine mind you, but it would depend on how close the sensor is to the trigger wheel. Also may want to check the rr part to see if the trigger wheel is different. Magnetic are usually square cut, where as halls are more sprocket designeed. A hall sensor can read quicker inputs which is why most are going to them. It may not matter in your case, but it is something to look at. May have to figure out a different way to mount it. If I can help anymore lemme know.
Oh yeah man, that helps a lot. I was worried about placement of the knock sensor. But there are a lot of places I can bolt it to. Thanks for that.
As far as the rotor on the RR cam - it's the exact same, or at least it's really close. That's why it's thrown me for a loop - I thought it would be the exact same. It wasn't until I looked at the plug and the wiring diagram that I realized they were different. I found some universal ones - they say to try and not be more than .040" away from the sprocket... HAHA, so that kind of rules out just using the 1000rr one (it sits about 3/8" shorter).
But I think I may have found a universal one that would work. I have to get some more dimensions on them, but, I think it'll work.
As far as the rotor on the RR cam - it's the exact same, or at least it's really close. That's why it's thrown me for a loop - I thought it would be the exact same. It wasn't until I looked at the plug and the wiring diagram that I realized they were different. I found some universal ones - they say to try and not be more than .040" away from the sprocket... HAHA, so that kind of rules out just using the 1000rr one (it sits about 3/8" shorter).
But I think I may have found a universal one that would work. I have to get some more dimensions on them, but, I think it'll work.
There are a lot of universal ones out there. Just try to make sure they will pick up the same frequency be compatible in other words.. Out of curiosity, is the mount a raised boss? Just curious if maybe it was possible to shave 3/8s off the mount without effecting anything
Okay, I think I found what I need.
Differential Hall effect rotational speed sensor - max. 20 kHz, max. 284 °F | FK series - Rheintacho Messtechnik
That's the same length as the stock one (45mm / 1 3/4in.)
Differential Hall effect rotational speed sensor - max. 20 kHz, max. 284 °F | FK series - Rheintacho Messtechnik
That's the same length as the stock one (45mm / 1 3/4in.)
This may be a shot in the dark, but have you looked at ones off other bikes? I saw one off an r1 that was deeper.. not quite sure how long it was or anything but was just thinking it may be easier and more economical to get one from another bike if it works.....
Yeah, I did look. The R1's bolts up the same, but I don't think it's long enough. The max distance that it can be away from the tooth (that I've seen on the specs for a bunch online) is .1". I'll keep looking at other bikes. The Gixxer and the Kawi's are all much different - they wouldn't fit.
I wonder why Honda switch all of a sudden. The 600's rev higher and they don't have the hall kind. The previous 1000rr's are all magnetic sensors.
I wonder why Honda switch all of a sudden. The 600's rev higher and they don't have the hall kind. The previous 1000rr's are all magnetic sensors.


