Great find!

 

another wee bargain i grabbed, really need to stop haemorrhaging money on bikes



32'' wide. the guy said they were destickered renthals although i can't vouch for it being truth, either way a set of straight trials fatties for £12... you can't complain can you.

can't remember if i spoke about it here or on another post regarding bar geometry but i kind of plan on experimenting with bars on the cbr to see whats better on the road and what my preference is i guess.

recently i replaced an old set of bent trials bars on the gs with a set of imitation renthals i was gifted with road bias geometry. i found that the bike actually rode substantially better cruising around however the trials bars i had were 33'' the road bars were 29'' and there was a definite change in turn-in speed as it was absolutely ridiculously quick with the wider bars. i quite like how 'LAIRY' it made the bike, it looks a tad madmax, like something that belongs in a field, basically it encouraged you to ride like a madman, you could lamp it into slow corners with zero regard. anyway typically the wider the bar is the lower ad the less back sweep / rise / height it has, obviously its to compensate for the different length as road geometry combined with trials width would give you a bar that was more suited to a chop or a cruiser. I'm speaking generally but when you start looking at figures for comparisons sake you can understand what I'm on about and why bars are made the way they are. charts are on the renthal site for anyone interested.

like I've said, I've got a set of ridiculous trials bars to try out whenever the effing thing is on the road again haha but in the future i plan on experimenting with a set of renthal road bars or their street fighter bar, it'll boil down to whatever has the biggest length i guess. typically road bars are 29'' give or take.

i think the aggressive trials bars are going to be quite entertaining with the aggressive rearsets, not sure how well they will work for me. not likely to be fun on a long run anyway haha

 

havent forgotten about this, just haven't had time to get near it same old song and dance really.

hopefully got the welder coming out tomorrow evening to eye up the job, like i said... hopefully... so all going well haha then we should be sailing from there in.


there really isn't a great deal left to do to get it on the road, at the end of the day i could put the old mudguard/undertray back on it so theres somewhere for the electrics and run it as is but theres no point, id rather get it ''finished'' whatever that means anymore haha




recap on my to do list:

1. subframe needs fabricated when i can find someone to do it. well that should hopefully have some movement tomorrow.

2. battery/electrics tray once the tail is on.

3. make a tail tidy / numberplate holder.

4. modify the later 600rr brake light to squeeze into my tail.

5. wire in the headlight.

6. fix wiring loom onto the frame etc once everything is in place.

7. make new preload spacer to replace the damaged one.

8. reset forks to factory settings.

9. wire new speedo once i get round to buying it. not too concerned about this right now as i can use the gps on my phone for an accurate speedo.

10. replace the remaining 3 brake seal sets that were the wrong size and figure out why the brakes are sticking when they shouldn't be. well i still need to get the front paddock stand back to do this, hopefully getting it tonight.

11. replace back tyre, got a 160 pilot road 4 sitting. DONE

11.5 sort out the bolts for the rearsets so theres no flex and tap a bolt into the arm that holds the rear master to the lever to make sure it can't slide off.) there isn't actually as much flex as i thought there was, its probably fine

11.5-2 replace the starter solenoid i used from the f3 to get the brothers bike going after a melted solenoid connector and R/R.





some other stuff on the long term plans...

12. delkevic carbon mini exhaust.

13. make bracket for steering damper.

14. rejet, got the jets sitting.

15. install the emc shock and get a base tune.

16. new top yolk so i can fit 7/8 bars, either get one machined or go aftermarket. purchased and ready to fit.

17. fat bars purchased and ready to fit.

18. braided lines. purchased and ready to fit.

19. f4i coil on plug setup, got them sitting.

20. start playing with the early blade 38mm carbs i have sitting.

21. sort out paintwork.

 

What size are the original carbs? Damn, 38 sounds big.... Same size as my bandit carbs. Should be really fun when the get dialed in. Are you running a standard airbox or Pods?

 

should be interesting anyway should make for a peakier top end at the cost of some mid-range, not like the f3 is already a screamer or anything haha. its 36's as standard on the f3 and id love to keep the ram air setup but its likely to end up on dual k&n filters or 'sock' style Ramair (brand) filters rather than pods as the pods are just a bit more difficult to tune for apparently but its all a fair bit away yet, maybe even next year so just have to see what happens with it. the carbs were a steal and i can always clean them and double my money if its just not going to work out.

really i'd love to pick up some throttle bodies / injectors and microsquirt it but the cost just isn't justifiable haha that and I'm a fan of carbs.

//



good news though! finally got the front paddock stand back, i flipped the the spacers around again and gave it a bash with the persuader and the axle is sitting flush the brakes are much better but its still dragging slightly more than they should be but not much more than a bike thats been parked up if you get me, hopefully its just down to needing a bit of use. really not sure as to why they could be dragging like they are, although a couple of seals still need done all the seal areas were cleaned thouroghly and the pistons machine polished, pins weren't grooved and they were polished as well so there shouldn't be any reason for them to stick. maybe it just needs bled in again, who knows.

 

more good news, the welder has a couple of ideas on how were going to make it work and is on board just need to get a shot of someone with a trailer or a van to get it across to him in the next couple of weeks which isn't going to be any bother

 

to replace the knackered old one. i get the impression its some dude churning them out of his shed somewhere down in england which is pretty damn cool. same goes for the guy who made the rearsets, just some rad guy firing out some damn fine metallurgy.

have yet to make a start to the subframe but moves are being made shortly.

 

 

another wee thing that turned up this morning. proper tiny led indicators, pic to show scale. roughly 25mm x 16mm lenses. these will be stashable up front and i'll be running the integrated indicators in the rr brake light, the back ones will have questionable legality but so long as its visible enough and i fire normal ones on for the MOT its all good. not usually a fan of clear lenses but their size makes up for it.

now... back to painting the 11's seat cowl haha

 

I have those on my Bandit. They're surprisingly bright.