build time! P=
I had to fabricate my own midpipe since they don`t make one that would be a direct fit for my bike, and the one that came with it was in the way of the brake pedal. The insert of the can was a little weird size so I had to seal the connection with some exhaust paste as well as make my own baffle.

I`m not 100% do they have the jisu in CF, mine is aluminum cased and finished in a kind of a gunmetal grey (I believe) paint.
Real CF is real CF, but if you simply cannot get an authentic piece the dipping, when done right, looks just as good. Of course it isn`t that light but let`s face it the mudguard isn`t that haevy as is. I had to dip my hugger cause there simply isn`t one available for the double sided rear swing and I wanted it to be CF.

I`m not 100% do they have the jisu in CF, mine is aluminum cased and finished in a kind of a gunmetal grey (I believe) paint.
Real CF is real CF, but if you simply cannot get an authentic piece the dipping, when done right, looks just as good. Of course it isn`t that light but let`s face it the mudguard isn`t that haevy as is. I had to dip my hugger cause there simply isn`t one available for the double sided rear swing and I wanted it to be CF.
I had to fabricate my own midpipe since they don`t make one that would be a direct fit for my bike, and the one that came with it was in the way of the brake pedal. The insert of the can was a little weird size so I had to seal the connection with some exhaust paste as well as make my own baffle.
I`m not 100% do they have the jisu in CF, mine is aluminum cased and finished in a kind of a gunmetal grey (I believe) paint.
Real CF is real CF, but if you simply cannot get an authentic piece the dipping, when done right, looks just as good. Of course it isn`t that light but let`s face it the mudguard isn`t that haevy as is. I had to dip my hugger cause there simply isn`t one available for the double sided rear swing and I wanted it to be CF.
I`m not 100% do they have the jisu in CF, mine is aluminum cased and finished in a kind of a gunmetal grey (I believe) paint.
Real CF is real CF, but if you simply cannot get an authentic piece the dipping, when done right, looks just as good. Of course it isn`t that light but let`s face it the mudguard isn`t that haevy as is. I had to dip my hugger cause there simply isn`t one available for the double sided rear swing and I wanted it to be CF.
can't argue there but i think the carbon mudguards come in around 350 or so grams, probably about a 1/4 or 1/3 of the weight. in the grand scheme of things I'm playing with the idea of making a carbon fibre tank or at the very least finding a suitable aluminium one so it kind of makes sense to do the little things now. there was that guy i mentioned previously who had his f2/3 into the low 170kg wet region which is just mad when you're looking at 207 in standard trim. if i can id like to aim low 180. its bound to be in the 190s at the moment.
the option is there for dipping but id rather something was just painted rather than faux carbon, thats just my preference though isn't it. largely i reckon the whole hydrodipping thing doesn't live up to what it could, everyone just seems to use the same patterns and if it were me i'd be creating graphics unique to me. guess i'm kind of fed up of folk hydrodipping tacky skull repeat patterns haha quite interested to see effects from dipping over textures or polished surfaces though, certainly doesn't seem to be enough experimentation going on with the medium, well not that I've been seeing anyway.
been doing a spot of reading just to understand the forces which dictate traction, figured seeing that i was looking at swingarm swaps that it made sense to have an understanding - More Fun With Geometry | Sport Rider
likewise with exhaust systems, seeing that I'm making some drastic changes further down the line, found this to be quite interesting. -
likewise with exhaust systems, seeing that I'm making some drastic changes further down the line, found this to be quite interesting. -
the option is there for dipping but id rather something was just painted rather than faux carbon, thats just my preference though isn't it. largely i reckon the whole hydrodipping thing doesn't live up to what it could, everyone just seems to use the same patterns and if it were me i'd be creating graphics unique to me. guess i'm kind of fed up of folk hydrodipping tacky skull repeat patterns haha quite interested to see effects from dipping over textures or polished surfaces though, certainly doesn't seem to be enough experimentation going on with the medium, well not that I've been seeing anyway.
The thing that aggaravates me is stuff that you can tell a hunderd yards away that they aren`t real CF like starter pedals, levers etc that wouldn`t make a speck of sense to cast out of carbon. I would have preferred a real CF hugger but as said no such thing exist for my bike so had to go with the next best thing and IMO it came out good when a pro did it.I honestly don`t know what bike is that in the pic, I just googled the can and grabbed what looked the best.
Haha true dat! I can confess sitting at the `puter for hours on end till I saw skull patterns in my sleep when I was seacrhing for one that didn`t look like something someone taped over their bikes in their own garage, and did a bad job doing it
The thing that aggaravates me is stuff that you can tell a hunderd yards away that they aren`t real CF like starter pedals, levers etc that wouldn`t make a speck of sense to cast out of carbon. I would have preferred a real CF hugger but as said no such thing exist for my bike so had to go with the next best thing and IMO it came out good when a pro did it.
I honestly don`t know what bike is that in the pic, I just googled the can and grabbed what looked the best.
The thing that aggaravates me is stuff that you can tell a hunderd yards away that they aren`t real CF like starter pedals, levers etc that wouldn`t make a speck of sense to cast out of carbon. I would have preferred a real CF hugger but as said no such thing exist for my bike so had to go with the next best thing and IMO it came out good when a pro did it.I honestly don`t know what bike is that in the pic, I just googled the can and grabbed what looked the best.
i hear you though, when needs must what can you do. one thing id consider dipping is wheels in carbon, i think that would be pretty cool but it's one of those things that you could easily overdo. too much carbon/faux carbon would just look distasteful, same with most things i guess. I'm just fedup of people with taste (i deem poor) ruining bikes and cars haha theres something to be said for subtlety when it comes to anything custom, something that is incredibly difficult not to be vocal about, like you don't want to turn round and tell someone that all their work, money & effort has been wasted do you. each to their own though ehh.what bikes have you got on the go this now anyway man? haven't checked out your thread in a while, shall have to get on that later.
Last edited by iamhiding; Nov 13, 2015 at 07:37 AM.
Just the Daytona, been busy trying to get the last little things finished and getting my name out there so to speak. Did a photoshoot last saturday, to what end I hopefully can reveal in the near future, and waiting for an answer to whether I got in to the Petrol Circus exhibition next february or not.
Oh, I did buy a moped a while ago, a 2006 Derbi Senda SM that I'll be rebuilding with my neighbor's son who it will eventually be bought for once ready. So far have had time to wash it
other than that not much, bought a new helmet but the weather's been so crappy haven't even managed to test it yet.
Oh, I did buy a moped a while ago, a 2006 Derbi Senda SM that I'll be rebuilding with my neighbor's son who it will eventually be bought for once ready. So far have had time to wash it
other than that not much, bought a new helmet but the weather's been so crappy haven't even managed to test it yet.
Just the Daytona, been busy trying to get the last little things finished and getting my name out there so to speak. Did a photoshoot last saturday, to what end I hopefully can reveal in the near future, and waiting for an answer to whether I got in to the Petrol Circus exhibition next february or not.
Oh, I did buy a moped a while ago, a 2006 Derbi Senda SM that I'll be rebuilding with my neighbor's son who it will eventually be bought for once ready. So far have had time to wash it
other than that not much, bought a new helmet but the weather's been so crappy haven't even managed to test it yet.
Oh, I did buy a moped a while ago, a 2006 Derbi Senda SM that I'll be rebuilding with my neighbor's son who it will eventually be bought for once ready. So far have had time to wash it
other than that not much, bought a new helmet but the weather's been so crappy haven't even managed to test it yet.and ohhhh not so interesting
haha on the moped note i came across a peugot 125 something, turbo'd from the factory haha thought that was pretty cool.
well couple of bits arrived, still haven't finished the loom been too busy avoiding it and procrastinating this week haha
[/url]
front brake lever pivot bolt, didn't get a bolt with the blade master so had to rob the f3 one and its just not quite right so yeah... new bolt, Ti because its all i could get a hold of without swinging into a honda garage lolz also new brake light switch.
[/url]
03-06 600rr light that i'm modifying to fit the 07 tail, should sit flush with a bit of work.
[/url]
and... carbon front mudguard, yep that hurt the wallet. went twill weave rather than plain weave, i reckon it looks much better. weighs about 300 grams.
//
hopefully got a friend coming tomorrow to see about the welding for the subframe and just get an eye for the changes needed really. its a skill I've not acquired yet so it doesn't make sense for my first welding endeavour to be on something that needs to be spot on and strong. hoping to pick up a wee welder next year and to teach myself. and start making some custom exhausts etc
[/url]front brake lever pivot bolt, didn't get a bolt with the blade master so had to rob the f3 one and its just not quite right so yeah... new bolt, Ti because its all i could get a hold of without swinging into a honda garage lolz also new brake light switch.
[/url]03-06 600rr light that i'm modifying to fit the 07 tail, should sit flush with a bit of work.
[/url]and... carbon front mudguard, yep that hurt the wallet. went twill weave rather than plain weave, i reckon it looks much better. weighs about 300 grams.
//
hopefully got a friend coming tomorrow to see about the welding for the subframe and just get an eye for the changes needed really. its a skill I've not acquired yet so it doesn't make sense for my first welding endeavour to be on something that needs to be spot on and strong. hoping to pick up a wee welder next year and to teach myself. and start making some custom exhausts etc
i should probably update this a bit then!
so the wiring is essentially finished, still to wire in the speedo and tidy some areas of insulation up. and when i said previously that there wasn't much to do, it was actually about 10 hours work lolz

mines is better! take that mr honda
its crazy how much tidier, shorter and concise my loom is in comparison to the oem item. its not 100% but i'm well and truly pleased all in all.

space under the seat for the fusebox and icm, just need to fab up a tray.

yet again just showing how much space is under there.

not the final routing, it will tuck under that crossbar to clear more space between the petcock and the connections. having a bunch of connections directly under a fuel pipe would be stupid. theres always potential for a fuel leak, always.
my R/R fits under the support for the tank very nicely, the holes line up and everything. playing with the idea but i don't like how the fins travel horizontally, in contrast to the direction of travel. that and R/R's are always a weak point, they need a proper heat sink and i don't know if this will cut it. it should be fine, scotland isn't exactly known for its warm climate is it. another point is that when they fail, they get HOT, they smoke, they've even been heard of to ignite and its not a great place to be if its concealed under a fuel tank. if its really cause for concern i'll integrate some kind of fail safe but if I'm honest like everything I'm probably over thinking it lolz

what I've done with the R/R connections, because there known to get dirty, create heat and melt plugs is to just use bullet connectors. to me it makes sense as it allows any heat caused by resistance to escape, that and you can visually check to make sure they're clean. if it turns out not to be ideal, its easily amended, was just a thought.

now because its a gsxr R/R it doesn't use the same colour of wires as the honda looms do. in my case black/red goes to white/red as positive and black/white goes to green. as a fail safe I've used a male on the ground and a female on the positive side. just to make sure no one ever mixes them up and blows the main fuse. I've done stuff like this throughout the loom just to keep things right and hey if i ever sell up then atleast the next owner will have it easy, in fact they will have this whole resource thread if they need to figure anything I've done out. no intention of selling up by the way

finally replaced the brake lever pivot bolt for the correct item, new ti 929 item on the right and old f3 on the left. also replaced the front brake light switch as the mount had snapped.
https://www.instagram.com/p/-cdeSWpnTl/
^^ hope that works. quick video of the bugger running! =D =D =D

running like a bag of... eels? that should be saying right? running like a wet fish haha carbs are all gummed up and its only managing to just tick over on full choke, so mega rich and the engine oil is probably filled with fuel now.
had to gravity feed the carbs, had thought that there was a potential break in the wire as the black/blue at the fuse box wasn't connecting with that of the fuel pump... spent a bit of time trouble shooting before i realised that in the honda loom. black/blue is also for the fan motor which has its own circuit, so obviously i couldn't get a connection there haha
everything tested fine so i pulled the fuel pump cover off to find this mess.

disassembled the contacts and cleaned it all but still no joy when running it straight to the battery.

got a new vacuum petcock, reworked the internals to make the spring constantly push on the diaphragm making it flow like a regular tap when in the ON/RES positions, that was actually prior to figuring out the pump was dead, otherwise i would have left the vacuum setup as was for the time being. ah well no biggie.

made a quick blank for the unused vacuum port so that should the diaphragm become compromised, fuel isn't going to **** out there.

now for the highlight, mounted headlight and carbon mudguard. not keen on how the speedo sits in relation to the headlight but i'll talk about that in a second.


just for the record its a carbon king mudguard and the holes don't line up 100% perfect although it is very very close.



haven't yet sorted the height/angle but on the whole I'm really quite impressed with the kit, i was a bit uncertain about the clamps and brackets but they are decent enough and sit super close to the forks. I've left the protective covering on the brackets as well for the time being, quite like the print on this side, may do something interesting paintwise with them, we shall see. i'll see if they stick because i much prefer making things up where i can.
now for the speedo... in the pictures it looks like the protrudes really far from the headlight but in person its not terrible. in terms of function it is in the perfect place for glancing at it but for the sake of it being cosmetically tidy it needs to be mounted where the ignition switch is which is a bit of a dilemma. as much as i would love to relocate the switch i really need the function on the steering lock.
so I'm playing with some ideas, the first being to retain a mechanical lock by rotating the switch 90 degrees so that the key is used from the side and just make it line up etc. the second thought which is kinda half my brother half mine would be to use an electromagnetic lock similar to that of some door entry systems, make sure that theres no way it can go **** up and hook it up to the parking light on the ignition switch so it would still be convenient to use. the problem with this is that it would be a constant drain on the battery when engaged and i can't find any specs to suggest what kind of load they use to suggest its longevity. reckon its a fairly tech idea but on the other hand its room for failure. at this moment i think I'm going to see if the mechanical route is plausible with what I've got lying around and take it from there. thought it was worthwhile airing my thoughts on it.
//
so I've got a new fuel pump on its way, just a cheap aftermarket one. figured if its rubbish i can rob the contacts for the honda one.
160/60 pilot road 4 sitting ready to go on.
may have purchased some aftermarket rearsets & a hydraulic brake switch for the light.
ordered up some carb cleaner as its too expensive to buy in the local shops.
and some grommets so i can rubber mount the mudguard just to keep it in good shape.
//
now where everything goes downhill... its both a good and bad thing though.
I've come to realise that the cbr is just far too good to put on winter roads and that was the plan. spent far too much time and money to ruin it. so I'm going to direct my efforts for the time being to get the gs500 back on the road for winter. its just needing re-framed and carbs cleaned and its good to go, call it a days work or 2 at a push. got the frame sitting, going to steal the koso speedo from the cbr as its not even wired in yet. makes sense to.
as soon as i saw the mudguard and the headlight on, it really started to take shape and the moment of realisation just sunk in. *****, i was hoping to have straight run at the gs build without having to worry about using it at the same time but hey for the time being its minimal work and it'll do fine for a winter hack.
//
so the cbr is really close to being road ready, tiny bit of wiring to do, clean the carbs and the biggest hold up is the subframe. the guy who was mean to be doing it is crazy busy at the moment and theres really only so many times you can ask without being a pest ehh. see what happens with it but for the time being i don't HAVE to worry about it.

thats the gsxr11 getting ready to be parked up now as well, the snow has fallen and the roads have been gritted. just waiting for a dry day to get it to my friends garage, prep and tuck it away.

and because hey, everything looks better in black and white
so the wiring is essentially finished, still to wire in the speedo and tidy some areas of insulation up. and when i said previously that there wasn't much to do, it was actually about 10 hours work lolz

mines is better! take that mr honda
its crazy how much tidier, shorter and concise my loom is in comparison to the oem item. its not 100% but i'm well and truly pleased all in all.
space under the seat for the fusebox and icm, just need to fab up a tray.

yet again just showing how much space is under there.

not the final routing, it will tuck under that crossbar to clear more space between the petcock and the connections. having a bunch of connections directly under a fuel pipe would be stupid. theres always potential for a fuel leak, always.
my R/R fits under the support for the tank very nicely, the holes line up and everything. playing with the idea but i don't like how the fins travel horizontally, in contrast to the direction of travel. that and R/R's are always a weak point, they need a proper heat sink and i don't know if this will cut it. it should be fine, scotland isn't exactly known for its warm climate is it. another point is that when they fail, they get HOT, they smoke, they've even been heard of to ignite and its not a great place to be if its concealed under a fuel tank. if its really cause for concern i'll integrate some kind of fail safe but if I'm honest like everything I'm probably over thinking it lolz

what I've done with the R/R connections, because there known to get dirty, create heat and melt plugs is to just use bullet connectors. to me it makes sense as it allows any heat caused by resistance to escape, that and you can visually check to make sure they're clean. if it turns out not to be ideal, its easily amended, was just a thought.

now because its a gsxr R/R it doesn't use the same colour of wires as the honda looms do. in my case black/red goes to white/red as positive and black/white goes to green. as a fail safe I've used a male on the ground and a female on the positive side. just to make sure no one ever mixes them up and blows the main fuse. I've done stuff like this throughout the loom just to keep things right and hey if i ever sell up then atleast the next owner will have it easy, in fact they will have this whole resource thread if they need to figure anything I've done out. no intention of selling up by the way

finally replaced the brake lever pivot bolt for the correct item, new ti 929 item on the right and old f3 on the left. also replaced the front brake light switch as the mount had snapped.
https://www.instagram.com/p/-cdeSWpnTl/
^^ hope that works. quick video of the bugger running! =D =D =D
running like a bag of... eels? that should be saying right? running like a wet fish haha carbs are all gummed up and its only managing to just tick over on full choke, so mega rich and the engine oil is probably filled with fuel now.
had to gravity feed the carbs, had thought that there was a potential break in the wire as the black/blue at the fuse box wasn't connecting with that of the fuel pump... spent a bit of time trouble shooting before i realised that in the honda loom. black/blue is also for the fan motor which has its own circuit, so obviously i couldn't get a connection there haha
everything tested fine so i pulled the fuel pump cover off to find this mess.

disassembled the contacts and cleaned it all but still no joy when running it straight to the battery.

got a new vacuum petcock, reworked the internals to make the spring constantly push on the diaphragm making it flow like a regular tap when in the ON/RES positions, that was actually prior to figuring out the pump was dead, otherwise i would have left the vacuum setup as was for the time being. ah well no biggie.

made a quick blank for the unused vacuum port so that should the diaphragm become compromised, fuel isn't going to **** out there.

now for the highlight, mounted headlight and carbon mudguard. not keen on how the speedo sits in relation to the headlight but i'll talk about that in a second.


just for the record its a carbon king mudguard and the holes don't line up 100% perfect although it is very very close.



haven't yet sorted the height/angle but on the whole I'm really quite impressed with the kit, i was a bit uncertain about the clamps and brackets but they are decent enough and sit super close to the forks. I've left the protective covering on the brackets as well for the time being, quite like the print on this side, may do something interesting paintwise with them, we shall see. i'll see if they stick because i much prefer making things up where i can.
now for the speedo... in the pictures it looks like the protrudes really far from the headlight but in person its not terrible. in terms of function it is in the perfect place for glancing at it but for the sake of it being cosmetically tidy it needs to be mounted where the ignition switch is which is a bit of a dilemma. as much as i would love to relocate the switch i really need the function on the steering lock.
so I'm playing with some ideas, the first being to retain a mechanical lock by rotating the switch 90 degrees so that the key is used from the side and just make it line up etc. the second thought which is kinda half my brother half mine would be to use an electromagnetic lock similar to that of some door entry systems, make sure that theres no way it can go **** up and hook it up to the parking light on the ignition switch so it would still be convenient to use. the problem with this is that it would be a constant drain on the battery when engaged and i can't find any specs to suggest what kind of load they use to suggest its longevity. reckon its a fairly tech idea but on the other hand its room for failure. at this moment i think I'm going to see if the mechanical route is plausible with what I've got lying around and take it from there. thought it was worthwhile airing my thoughts on it.
//
so I've got a new fuel pump on its way, just a cheap aftermarket one. figured if its rubbish i can rob the contacts for the honda one.
160/60 pilot road 4 sitting ready to go on.
may have purchased some aftermarket rearsets & a hydraulic brake switch for the light.
ordered up some carb cleaner as its too expensive to buy in the local shops.
and some grommets so i can rubber mount the mudguard just to keep it in good shape.
//
now where everything goes downhill... its both a good and bad thing though.
I've come to realise that the cbr is just far too good to put on winter roads and that was the plan. spent far too much time and money to ruin it. so I'm going to direct my efforts for the time being to get the gs500 back on the road for winter. its just needing re-framed and carbs cleaned and its good to go, call it a days work or 2 at a push. got the frame sitting, going to steal the koso speedo from the cbr as its not even wired in yet. makes sense to.
as soon as i saw the mudguard and the headlight on, it really started to take shape and the moment of realisation just sunk in. *****, i was hoping to have straight run at the gs build without having to worry about using it at the same time but hey for the time being its minimal work and it'll do fine for a winter hack.
//
so the cbr is really close to being road ready, tiny bit of wiring to do, clean the carbs and the biggest hold up is the subframe. the guy who was mean to be doing it is crazy busy at the moment and theres really only so many times you can ask without being a pest ehh. see what happens with it but for the time being i don't HAVE to worry about it.

thats the gsxr11 getting ready to be parked up now as well, the snow has fallen and the roads have been gritted. just waiting for a dry day to get it to my friends garage, prep and tuck it away.

and because hey, everything looks better in black and white
Last edited by iamhiding; Nov 29, 2015 at 08:51 PM.

pulled the carbs for a clean, they really weren't gummed up at all but there was some debris blocking a couple of jets.

that was the dirtiest bowl which is nothing really.

spotted this wee tear, no fluid moves through the tubes, in fact 2 of the nipples were blocked up with corrosion. i think these possibly help balance vacuum across the cyls but I'm not sure, didn't give it much thought as i was busy.

got really confused by the jets as it wasn't how i remembered them being...

before realising this hahaha sure i did the same thing last time i cleaned them.

i tend to go overboard and spend far too much time on little things like conditioning the vacuum rubbery bit attached to the slide... what the hell is it called again haha with zx1 oil, oil the plungers for the choke as well.

gave the outside a proper deep clean as well, pic doesn't do it justice really.
//
now i did something silly, may have jumped the gun assuming it only needed the carbs cleaned and threw larger mains in...
optimistic.after spending an hour wrestling with throttle cables (as always) put fuel in the carbs and went to start it. hard starting, then stumbley, then hard staring and a massive backfire. this is of course 11pm at night, in a small village
prior to the carb clean it was letting out the odd backfire and giving hard starting symptoms typical of dirty carbs. of course temperatures are at freezing point and its getting more fuel than its meant to, so that is one possibility as to why but the fact it was doing it before the clean gives me cause for concern.
so potential causes for backfire:
bearing in mind that I've got fuel and v.good spark across all 4, so.
too rich, too lean, fault in the ignition circuit, timing is out.
couple of thoughts here, now there is the possibility that the timing could be out because of the massive wiring changes. lets just hope not.
i clocked that the TPS plug has a terminal which pops out, its the only connector i had any real problem with. think its an econoseal or something like that. it can be removed without any real impact. a dodgy connection there could be telling the icm that the throttle is wide open or vice versa due to the change in resistance so its adapting the spark to what it thinks is happening.
another is that my ignition advancer could be exaggerating any changes that the wiring made. could be too advanced. my thought is that larger gauge wire equals less resistance but the change in gauge is minuscule so i don't really know. 1 size larger in gauge... is nothing.
chances are that its just down to me being a dafty with starting to jet it and that it might have been fine otherwise. really should do ONE thing at a time and i usually do.
won't be at home to mess with it over the next few days so this will be in the back of my head. if it does come down to wire gauge then its not the end of the world as i can just replace the relevant wires with a smaller gauge. but aggghhhhh why the hell did i decide to throw jets in whilst the carbs were out... amateur!
ahwell, should have thursday night and all of friday to play with it.
Last edited by iamhiding; Dec 2, 2015 at 05:22 PM.


