build time! P=

Can't imagine why it wasn't working...
As far as your carbs, they look really clean. And when the aerator comes out with the jet, all it means is you didn't over tighten them. My college friend stripped his carbs talking a socket and ratchet and giving the aerator a ton of muscle.
Have you balanced the carbs together? That would give the symptoms you're describing despite the carbs being clean. If its been a long time and you've taken them apart a few times, they could probably use it.
Last edited by Conrice; Nov 30, 2015 at 08:54 PM.

Can't imagine why it wasn't working...
As far as your carbs, they look really clean. And when the aerator comes out with the jet, all it means is you didn't over tighten them. My college friend stripped his carbs talking a socket and ratchet and giving the aerator a ton of muscle.
Have you balanced the carbs together? That would give the symptoms you're describing despite the carbs being clean. If its been a long time and you've taken them apart a few times, they could probably use it.
i know haha that pump is a hell of a state! xD hopefully I've got a new one sitting when i get home tomorrow.
think i just had a head blank with that one conrice, pulled the whole bit out with the jet and started questioning wether i had cleaned them before... when i was sure i had haha maybe i should sleep more, who knows
I'm usually fairly good at not over tightening anything, you only make that mistake once... then twice, right? haha usually get the torque wrench out for the important stuff as well.i did however have a stuck main jet in a set of gs carbs, ended up using an easyout as a last resort and cracking the casing... gutted!
no longer think its down to dirty carbs, however it could have been before i threw larger mains in, couple of blocked up jets pre-cleaning.
hear what you're saying about balance but they would have to be out by miiiiiiiiiiles for it to be responsible for how its running. also thats the first time I've had them out since i last balanced them about a month before it came off the road, once I've had a bash at it in the daytime and thrown the usual jets back in, i'll have a look at the balance for arguments sake, will need to get it to a state of continual tockover first, plan was to do it once it was up and running anyway.
generally pretty good with carbs or so i think haha certainly not scared of them like most people are anyway, good general understanding of how they work and i'm okay with tuning, when i take it slow.
checked the oil for signs of fuel washing and it was totally fine which pretty much rules out the sticky float or the needle not seating anyway.
that last post was just a bit of a panic update, was just trying to empty my head of everything, i can't see it being but heres hoping theres not an electrical/timing issue, likely just down to me prematurely jumping jets...
another thought I've recently had is wether its firing in the right order, I've had the coils off and rewired up to them so its entirely possible theres a bit of human error, yet again don't see it being likely but I'm not willing to rule it out until I've triple checked. but it would also explain the symptoms.
some toys showed up last week P=

bought these in a moment of annoyance with not having the other bits powder coated yet, i.e. mainly the other rearset. circumstance can be tedious at times but thats just life. messaged the guy at race supplies direct and got an epic deal on them. spoken to some of the racers who use them and general opinion is that there plenty of bang for buck however they need a bit of tweaking to fit right. the guy has been making them for the steelies since 92'. he thinks they're 20mm higher and 40mm back, feels quite aggressive but also tolerable, certainly not as uncomfortable as the slingshot11! haha

hydraulic pressure brake light switch as the rearsets don't allow for a regular switch. nor do they have heel plates actually, not sure how i feel about that but its no biggie, less material less weight.

new fuel pump, cheap & chinese but a pump is a pump right.

id been playing with the idea of converting to stick coils for a while but had put it off as well... i had a million other things to get done but a set popped up at the right price w/ the loom and i couldn't resist, not doing it this now i don't think but they are just sitting on the side until the time is right. something like 22thou mies on them and they're from a f4i i think. got them cheaper than i could buy 2 coils individually. they're extortionate in the uk usually.

slightly different to oem internals, same mounting points etc. look at that though conrice, nice and fresh. just opening it up firstly to have a look and secondly to do a bit of preventative maintenance by giving it a spray of acf50 to help prevent any future corrosion.

handy way to work on the carbs swapping jets etc, drain the bowls and tie them to the bars so they can't move. just put the original jets back in for the time being, i was being daft and hopelessly optimistic haha

this is what i was talking about with the TPS, these connectors just don't seem to work well for me, so whilst it was struggling to tick over i pulled this apart and although it didn't make it any better i id notice the revs change slightly. just going to fire some bullet connectors onto it for the sake of having it joined, although it really doesn't need to be for it to run and it doesn't make a noticeable difference.

aren't i clever... ordered a 6mm pump rather than the 10mm needed
well the gs5 uses a 7mm fuel pipe so i might look at incorporating it into it just for ****s and giggles.

Untitled
heres a video of that vacuum hose bridging 2-3 that has a split. click UNTITLED for the video

quick repair on it, the hose is sound enough like there no brittleness or anything just that little nick. amalgamating tape is awesome, if you've never heard of or used it, check it out and get some in your tool box.

Untitled
heres it ticking over after all that, still mad boggy and loves backfiring though... sounds healthy enough though doesn't it, like its firing on all 4 and nothing sounds out or sorts but it bogs and backfires.

and heres the problem. hope you're ready for this... i had it in my head that the left coil was 1-4 & the right 2-3, whilst testing 1 & 2 for spark i put 2 onto 1 afterwards as it came from the left coil and 1 onto 2 hahaha its funny because not long ago i was taking the **** out of someone for doing the same
i did say it was a possibility before that there was human error on that front and well damn thats easily done is it not. glad i found the cause of that anyway.
I'm a nugget but hey at least i'll acknowledge my mistakes lol actually can't believe i did that.

Untitled
^^ oh listen to the beautiful sounds
running on fumes though, think. wee bit of flame action, just needing a run and fine tuning. click the UNTITLED button for the vid SOOOOOOOO HAPPY TO HEAR IT running like that.

test fitted these beasties
i like
some modifications to be made like i was expecting. firstly need to open up the holes so i can fit the master cylinder but its a brembo master so thats to be expected.

the first ****le, pin for the lever to master fouls the hugger. was planning on nipping it down but apparently spacing the rearsets out by about 8mm from the frame solves all the issues so i'll see what i can do on that basis. not sure if i like that the master just slides on, there no clutter pin or anything.

gear lever side

so the lever fowls the rod when at the correct angle for the riding position, if you look I've got the rod mounted to the outer side of the lever as the rod fouls the side stand bolts. so the real issue is that i had to mount the rod on the outer side but if i space both rearsets out from the frame by 8mm or so that will allow me to run the rod to the inside and it won't be a problem anymore. see what happens but spacing it seems to be the easiest work around. they aren't perfect, its a shame there not the straight bolt on they are meant to be but they really were a bargain another plus is that the guy stocks plenty of spares and he seems to be a really decent dude.
//
so that only took the best part of an hour and a half to write up haha. certainly still making progress which i was worried about when i had to start building the gs5. thats the frame swapped on the gs and it basically back to a running state, must have taken about 15 hours to swap the frame, clean the carbs and swap everything over. i'll pop a link up here to the start of the build thread if anyone is curious.
hopefully get the rearset ****les sorted when i get to it over the weekend.
yaaaasssss progress

bought these in a moment of annoyance with not having the other bits powder coated yet, i.e. mainly the other rearset. circumstance can be tedious at times but thats just life. messaged the guy at race supplies direct and got an epic deal on them. spoken to some of the racers who use them and general opinion is that there plenty of bang for buck however they need a bit of tweaking to fit right. the guy has been making them for the steelies since 92'. he thinks they're 20mm higher and 40mm back, feels quite aggressive but also tolerable, certainly not as uncomfortable as the slingshot11! haha

hydraulic pressure brake light switch as the rearsets don't allow for a regular switch. nor do they have heel plates actually, not sure how i feel about that but its no biggie, less material less weight.

new fuel pump, cheap & chinese but a pump is a pump right.

id been playing with the idea of converting to stick coils for a while but had put it off as well... i had a million other things to get done but a set popped up at the right price w/ the loom and i couldn't resist, not doing it this now i don't think but they are just sitting on the side until the time is right. something like 22thou mies on them and they're from a f4i i think. got them cheaper than i could buy 2 coils individually. they're extortionate in the uk usually.

slightly different to oem internals, same mounting points etc. look at that though conrice, nice and fresh. just opening it up firstly to have a look and secondly to do a bit of preventative maintenance by giving it a spray of acf50 to help prevent any future corrosion.

handy way to work on the carbs swapping jets etc, drain the bowls and tie them to the bars so they can't move. just put the original jets back in for the time being, i was being daft and hopelessly optimistic haha

this is what i was talking about with the TPS, these connectors just don't seem to work well for me, so whilst it was struggling to tick over i pulled this apart and although it didn't make it any better i id notice the revs change slightly. just going to fire some bullet connectors onto it for the sake of having it joined, although it really doesn't need to be for it to run and it doesn't make a noticeable difference.

aren't i clever... ordered a 6mm pump rather than the 10mm needed
well the gs5 uses a 7mm fuel pipe so i might look at incorporating it into it just for ****s and giggles. 
Untitled
heres a video of that vacuum hose bridging 2-3 that has a split. click UNTITLED for the video

quick repair on it, the hose is sound enough like there no brittleness or anything just that little nick. amalgamating tape is awesome, if you've never heard of or used it, check it out and get some in your tool box.

Untitled
heres it ticking over after all that, still mad boggy and loves backfiring though... sounds healthy enough though doesn't it, like its firing on all 4 and nothing sounds out or sorts but it bogs and backfires.

and heres the problem. hope you're ready for this... i had it in my head that the left coil was 1-4 & the right 2-3, whilst testing 1 & 2 for spark i put 2 onto 1 afterwards as it came from the left coil and 1 onto 2 hahaha its funny because not long ago i was taking the **** out of someone for doing the same
I'm a nugget but hey at least i'll acknowledge my mistakes lol actually can't believe i did that.
Untitled
^^ oh listen to the beautiful sounds

test fitted these beasties

the first ****le, pin for the lever to master fouls the hugger. was planning on nipping it down but apparently spacing the rearsets out by about 8mm from the frame solves all the issues so i'll see what i can do on that basis. not sure if i like that the master just slides on, there no clutter pin or anything.

gear lever side

so the lever fowls the rod when at the correct angle for the riding position, if you look I've got the rod mounted to the outer side of the lever as the rod fouls the side stand bolts. so the real issue is that i had to mount the rod on the outer side but if i space both rearsets out from the frame by 8mm or so that will allow me to run the rod to the inside and it won't be a problem anymore. see what happens but spacing it seems to be the easiest work around. they aren't perfect, its a shame there not the straight bolt on they are meant to be but they really were a bargain another plus is that the guy stocks plenty of spares and he seems to be a really decent dude.
//
so that only took the best part of an hour and a half to write up haha. certainly still making progress which i was worried about when i had to start building the gs5. thats the frame swapped on the gs and it basically back to a running state, must have taken about 15 hours to swap the frame, clean the carbs and swap everything over. i'll pop a link up here to the start of the build thread if anyone is curious.
hopefully get the rearset ****les sorted when i get to it over the weekend.
yaaaasssss progress
My neighbor did the same with his kawasaki once, almost missed a trackday cause of it
found out late at night the day before.
found out late at night the day before.
been spending all my time getting the wee gs up and going.
here's a link to its progress for anyone interested:
oh y'know, just another build thread.
its awesome to be working on something that only needs to be functional, not perfect, don't need to worry too much about scratching it up too much or anything as it just needs to start, go and stop. total back to basics rugged budget build using pretty much only stuff I've got lying around. a real build rather than a money reliant build. feels a bit like having the thunderace again but i don't have to worry about resale value, that... its slow and sounds like a parallel twin
would be sweet to see your old one if you have any pics floating about conrice
bog standard they're a bit spongey but decent enough, i really do have such a soft spot for them and even more so for a well sorted one, for what little they are they are just such good fun and they take to a bit of tuning very well. hard to beat them bang for buck anyway and when you drop them it doesn't hurt the bank too much.
would be sweet to see your old one if you have any pics floating about conrice
would be sweet to see your old one if you have any pics floating about conrice

Mine had the V&H pipe, a K&N filter, and it was jetted appropriately. It sounded great, and the PO from me said he dynoed about 50rwhp. It was quite a fun bike.
I bought my wife an xs650. Well, the first time she got on it, she dropped it and said it was too heavy for her to control. So, then we went and found the GS, it worked great for her, light and cheap (as she did tip it over on occasion). But I loved riding it. You could bang through 3 or 4 gears at WOT and not be in too much trouble with the law.


Last edited by Conrice; Dec 16, 2015 at 07:09 AM.
Mine had the V&H pipe, a K&N filter, and it was jetted appropriately. It sounded great, and the PO from me said he dynoed about 50rwhp. It was quite a fun bike.
I bought my wife an xs650. Well, the first time she got on it, she dropped it and said it was too heavy for her to control. So, then we went and found the GS, it worked great for her, light and cheap (as she did tip it over on occasion). But I loved riding it. You could bang through 3 or 4 gears at WOT and not be in too much trouble with the law.
I bought my wife an xs650. Well, the first time she got on it, she dropped it and said it was too heavy for her to control. So, then we went and found the GS, it worked great for her, light and cheap (as she did tip it over on occasion). But I loved riding it. You could bang through 3 or 4 gears at WOT and not be in too much trouble with the law.
50rwhp is a tad optimistic on the po's part haha stock is 45-52 ish on a new and healthy stocker at the crank dependant on years / sources. think wheel horse power is more like mid 30s realistically + a few for getting it fuelled and breathing right, saying that I'm making presumptions as I've never seen any dyno prints.
would love to find an 8valve head that could be made to work
read some things about using an old oil cooled gsxr head but cutting the two outer cyls off, but yeah totally underestimated bikes, certainly playing with a couple of ideas with the thing in the long run anyway, have you seen any of the thundersport racing? that looks like a fun series.



