Might have 2 independent issues here.
With Key ON/start-stop=RUN, you should measure full battery-power on all coils plug's blk/wht wires. It's exact same wire that powers ECU and injectors. Go upstream and measure blk/wht wire at main-harness just before it splits off 1-4 to coils.

Also go in other direction and trace blk/wht wire away from engine-stop relay. It should split along way to reach following:

- fuel-pump relay, right there at relay box, we know this split is OK since pump works when manually triggered
- ECU, also ok as confirmed power at #6
- injectors, measure for power on their blk/wht wires
- ignition-coils blk/wht
- exhaust valve, maybe someone cut off wiring to valve too soon and took out coils as well?

Try 20k-ohm setting on meter and try testing coils again. Very unlikely all 4 are bad, so it's measurement-range thing. Bigger problem is not getting any voltage on coils themselves. Doesn't matter if ECU's pulse-grounding them or not to fire sparks if they're not getting power at all.

You can also bench-test coils to verify they're working:

1. insert spare plug into coil.
2. using alligator jumpers, connect one terminal of coil to +pos battery
3. connect another alligator jumper to other terminal of coil
4. with free end of 2nd jumper, repeatedly tap/remove alligator clamp to -neg terminal of battery
5. do you see spark at plug?

Pulse generator may be suspect. Although manual doesn't show impedance test, they're usually around 200-400 ohms, so use 2k-ohm range on meter. As test, measure impedance of IPG at ECU connector itself.

- IPG - measure resistance between Lg#11 yel and Lg#12 grn , ohms = ???
- CPG - measure resistance between Lg#22 gry and Lg#12 grn, ohms = ???

 

Getting 12.8 volts blk/w at plug to coils and at the coil plug. Getting 12.86 at #6 blk/w LG
Not getting power on blk/w injector wire. Well it shows .02 volts is all. Set to 20k all 4 ignition coils read zero resistance. None of them have spark with battery test and spark plug installed so I know they are bad.
IPG test at ECU showed .496
CPG at ECU showed .490

 

Change that on fuel injector blk/w I had 20amp fuse blow when I was testing it. Replace it and checked it again and its 12.87

 

Ok, IPG and CPG appears OK, test again on lowest meter range. I'm thinking we want to see 496 & 490 ohms.

Alright, now you've got opposite problem of no power at injector, with power at coils. Should really trace that blk/wht power wire all way to ends from engine-stop relay. Appears you've got intermittent connection due to broken wire or connector along way. Leave meter connected to injector wire and wiggle harness all way between engine-stop relay to injectors and see if that changes reading.

Sorry, I left out step in coil-test. Three jumpers needed, or 3 hands...

1. insert spare plug into coil.
2. ground case/threads of spark-plug by laying it on top of battery -neg terminal, or use jumper-cable
3. using alligator jumpers, connect one terminal of coil to +pos battery
4. connect another alligator jumper to other terminal of coil
5. with free end of 2nd jumper, repeatedly tap/remove alligator clamp to -neg terminal of battery
5. do you see spark at plug?

 

Do you know why 20a FI fuse was blown? Something got shorted in measuring? Or is it wiring-harness issue that randomly blows fuse?


I think at this point, best to try your ECU on known-good working F4i. That'll tell us for sure that ECU's bad due to having external power being applied to trigger lines at some point in past.

 

When I twisted the injector plug to measure it I heard the fuse pop

 

I went ahead and replaced all fuses but that was the only one that blew

 

No. Still no spark

 

​​​​thats the first fuse that has blown since I've had it and started doing these test. I'm going to check that wire again at the injector and wiggle it and with multimeter hooked up and see

 

Checked it real good shaking it. Shook fuse box also. Seems good