All we know now is that pink is definitely connected to red/bl output wire.

Have to separate switch from harness and test each side separately to know which side has unauthorised connection to pink wire. Narrows down your search.

 

OKay, so what's going to be the best way to test the wires to see where it's connected to the red/bl wire? Or just unwrap the harness and check that way?

 

First test both sides by disconnecting ign-switch and ECU. Then you'll narrow it down to switch or harness side of connectors. Might even be internally shorted ECU.

Then, yes, unwrap harness and trace pink wire to see where and what touches it on way to ECU.
Might try starting at ECU connector and working backwards.

 

Okay, will do

 

So tell me if something is wrong or right because on the main harness side of plug I'm getting the same zero resistance on red/b unplugged? If it was internal on ECU I would think that the new ECU I tried would've worked but didn't make any change so pretty sure ECU is good unless I got a bad new ECU with the same problem which would be doubtful.
Battery fully charged. 13.30.
Pink wire without ECU connected getting 12.7 at ECU end and ignition side with run switch on or off. With ECU plugged up I'm getting 10.0 on pink wire at ignition with run switch off. With on it jumps to 12.20.

 

Also I checked coil wires and injector wires and was getting 12.6 on them. Fuel pump plug of course was getting nothing.

 

With ignition-switch AND ECU unplugged? Zero ohms between red/b and pink means those 2 wires have unauthorised connection. Look at wiring diagram. Without ign-switch or ECU plugged in, there’s NO connection between those 2 wires.


Well, previously you still had wiring problem, so replacement good ECU won’t work either.

Still have wiring problem. Pink should be 9.0v with nothing connected. Shouldn’t change wih or without ECU connected. Should definitely not change with kill-switch on or off.

Again, negative progress. Pink was 9.75v earlier, now it’s 10v.

What is pink voltage at ign-switch connector with it disconnected from harness?


STOP trying to “forge ahead” all the time. STOP and put that ECU into bank box until you measure exactly 9.0v at pink wire at ECU connector! Unauthorised connection pink wire has fried another diode. You’ll need to get another brand-new factory OEM ignition switch… after disconnecting pink from red/b wire.

Better yet, just clip pink wire 1” from ECU connector and 1” from ign-switch connector. Then tie and solder NEW wire between stubs of pink wire at each end. Measure to verify there’s NO connection between pink and red/b. Infinite ohms, OL, no continuity. THEN, key ON and measure 9.0v at ignition-switch pink wire at ign-switch unllugged connector. THEN connect ign-switch to harness and measure 9.0v at pink wire at ECU connector. ONLY when you actually measure 9.0v at ECU connector; with kill on & off, THEN shut it all down and reconnect ECU. It’s probably fried from all this messed up harness.

 

Yeah, I definitely agree there is a wiring issue. I just took charger off battery when I got the 10v. Maybe if I waited few minutes it would've shown 9 something. I was getting 12.7 from pink wire at ignition plug with ECU plug disconnected. Guess I need to unwrap harness and find the problem wires that are touching causing this issue. Seems to be something with the kill switch since it's changing the voltage on the pink wire from off to on. Also I think maybe I need to check bl/w wire that has few others tied into it from the showing on the wiring diagram.

 

Kept thinking I might be missing part of the wiring harness that might be causing the issue but according to wiring diagram I have everything except the O2 sensor wiring and PC solenoid which is irrelevant for mine being non Cal

 

Here's wiring diagram, showing NO connection of PINK to any other wire.



Given how many non-standard things you've found with this harness. I recommend removing whole thing from bike:

1. spread it out on large 4x8 sheet of plywood

2. unravel all wraps and tape

3. verify every single wire has end-points that connect to destinations shown by manual. And ONLY those end-points, nothing else anywhere!

4. verify again every single wire is run according to manual.

5. triple check again, that every single wire matches what you see in manual. Nothing missing, nothing extra.

6. then put it back on bike, but before connecting ANYTHING, just battery & ground.

verify above tests with ignition-switch only, ignition-switch connected to harness, that you've got exactly 9.0v at pink-wire at ECU connector. DO NOT bring that ECU back out of bank box until you've confirmed these measurements!!!