If you know of anything else to check please let me know. Just seems like something between the run switch being turned on and not grounding to turn fuel pump relay on. The test we did with jumper wire at ECU plugs made the fuel pump prime so guess that's why I'm thinking that. Then you BAS sends ground to power fuel relay. I tried bypassing the BAS as well and still didn't prime pump
Thanks

 

There’s a whole bunch of stuff between kill-switch and pump. Kill-switch and BAS has nothing to do powering pump. Here’s sequence of events:

1. Key ON sends power to fusebox

2. Ign-fuse sends power to engine-stop switch

3. Engine-stop switch = RUN sends power to activation coil of engine-stop relay

4. BAS grounds engine-stop relay to activate it

5. Engine-stop relay sends power to ECU, injectors, coils and both power-input and activation coil of fuel-pump relay

6. ECU grounds fuel-pump relay to run pump

7. ECU grounds coils to fire sparks when cranking.


Test for sparks when cranking. Is there spark?

I think we’ve narrowed it down to bunk ECU. Although I’d still like to see security wire be right at 9.0v. Best test is to use your ECU on another known-good running bike.

 

If you remember I've already put a new ECU on the bike with still no change and no fuel pump prime. It's gotta be something else.
Do all good running bikes go from ignition on 9v to run switch on to 11v at the pink wire? From what I understand it should be at 9v even with switch in run position and mine is not.

 

No, should not change. Pink wire is single direct run from ignition-switch to ECU with no other connections. It’s obvious that output wire of kill-switch IS connected to pink wire somewhere along way.

 

Okay, I'll have to unwrap the wiring harness and check it out. Has to be in main harness after the plug for kill switch because kill switch is new

 

try measuring power at pink-wire terminal on ECU connector with ECU disconnected.

1. Key ON, volts=???
2. Kill-switch=RUN, volts=???

 

That does not preclude a short in the switch, before you unwrap the harness check the voltages at the switch connector.

 

Okay, will do! Thanks that does sound like a good possibility even though it's new. I had a hard time getting the throttle cable on right and had to sand some of the handle bar where it was rough from being laid down by someone. The throttle tube kept sticking until I realized it was from damage on the handle bar.

 

To test ignition-switch itself, disconnect from harness and measure resistance between pink wire terminal at connector and all others. Should be open, no connection. Only some resistance to red power-input when key ON.

Measure resistance on pink at harness connector to other wires on harness connector.

 

No resistance on any except the red/bl had zero with switch off. Switch on no resistance on any.
Haven't checked kill switch yet.