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Stop wasting time and money swapping perfectly-working parts with brand-new perfectly-working parts and nothing changes. Follow my guide here and post each number you measured at each step. The numbers will tell exactly what’s wrong and how to fix it. You have no idea what’s wrong because you haven’t measured. Just desperately shotgunning giant pile of parts at bike is complete waste of time and money.
This is 5-minute repair with multimeter and most likely no new parts needed. I’ve helped over 100 people fix this exact problem remotely by phone in far-off parking lots in total darkness. Sometimes in pouring rain!
Just follow my guide here step-by-step and post numbers you measured at each step. Do not skip any steps. Somewhere along way, you’ll measure number that’s different from what manual says it should be. Ahah!!! There’s your problem. Most likely corroded or broken wire or connector somewhere.
Okay, thanks for the info I'll do all of that sometime this weekend and post results. As far as throwing money at it. The relay wasn't but 11 dollars. The ECU I bought is completely refundable. I do get what your saying though. All good there. You still never answered about the pc solenoid picture I sent you. Is that something I'm missing or is it only on CA models or something? What is it also? If it's not relevant to my problem then all good. Looking forward to following your steps and finding the issue. Thanks
Not relevant, not even worth looking at. That’s why I didn’t suggest you replace all bulbs, tyres and bodywork to fix your problem. Only to find out at end, they’re not remotely close to causing your no-start condition. Don’t waste time doing anything that’s not in my guide.
Not relevant, not even worth looking at. That’s why I didn’t suggest you replace all bulbs, tyres and bodywork to fix your problem. Only to find out at end, they’re not remotely close to causing your no-start condition. Don’t waste time doing anything that’s not in my guide.
Good deal,
Will post as soon as I get this testing done
Thanks
Here's factory manual's wiring-diagram. Don't use Haynes or Clymer, they often have errors and will cause you endless frustration.
I prefer to print out diagram on large 11x17" sheets. Then trace particular circuits I'm working on with highlight markets. Action of tracing really helps me understand circuit. And it saves time not having to start from beginning and trace with fingers by hand all the time since relevant wires stand out. Here's one from beginning showing power to ignition-switch and engine-stop relay that powers entire EFI system.
Here's factory manual's wiring-diagram. Don't use Haynes or Clymer, they often have errors and will cause you endless frustration.
I prefer to print out diagram on large 11x17" sheets. Then trace particular circuits I'm working on with highlight markets. Action of tracing really helps me understand circuit. And it saves time not having to start from beginning and trace with fingers by hand all the time since relevant wires stand out. Here's one from beginning showing power to ignition-switch and engine-stop relay that powers entire EFI system.
Awesome! Thank you
Yeah I only have the one from clymer. I'll get this printed out and go by this
Awesome! Thank you
Yeah I only have the one from clymer. I'll get this printed out and go by this
I think I may have found the problem without doing anymore testing after you sent me this diagram with the pin numbers.
This is what I got so far on black plug going to ECU. Pins
16=G 12=p/g 7= n/a appears to be the y/b that's missing goes to PC solenoid that isn't relevant but pointing it out. 5=n/a appears to show bl/g to O2 sensor my bike doesn't have. 2=p/g which is in pin 12 instead. Looks like someone took pins out and didn't put them back in the right places. Still gotta check the other plug next
I think I may have found the problem without doing anymore testing after you sent me this diagram with the pin numbers.
This is what I got so far on black plug going to ECU. Pins
16=G 12=p/g 7= n/a appears to be the y/b that's missing goes to PC solenoid that isn't relevant but pointing it out. 5=n/a appears to show bl/g to O2 sensor my bike doesn't have. 2=p/g which is in pin 12 instead. Looks like someone took pins out and didn't put them back in the right places. Still gotta check the other plug next
Other plug looks good. All the pin locations match with the wire colors. Now gotta repin these few and that should definitely fix my problem. Will let you know.
Thanks
P/g is trigger to injector#3. Won’t cause any of your issues as it’s output only.
Might find other non-factory hacks as you go through testing.
I hope your wrong on this one. I just watched a YouTube video pump wasn't priming on his F4i. Had broken p/b wire to injector 4. As soon as he fixed it pump primed and cranked right up. I'll know tomorrow when I hook it up. I'll send you the link and show you.
I hope your wrong on this one. I just watched a YouTube video pump wasn't priming on his F4i. Had broken p/b wire to injector 4. As soon as he fixed it pump primed and cranked right up. I'll know tomorrow when I hook it up. I'll send you the link and show you. https://youtu.be/786I7xL_2Ik?si=A_b58OeWHs_kvRNO
Eh? Did you post different video? I went through entire video and no mention of p/b line to injector#4 anywhere. Did say it was broken wire to fuel-pump relay. Which would explain why pump wasn’t running. Then fixing broken pump relay wire allowed ECU to control pump as designed.
