down low on water pump under left side lower fairing

welcome to the forum BTW

 

Thanks Sprock for the quick response. I read in another thread that using the drain plug is not enough sometimes as all the fluid will not come off the radiator. Is this true? I opened the radiator cap and i saw green fluid but some build up floating as well. I don't think the previous owner ever did a flush. Do you know of a thread with pics on how to do a flush? I think i'm over thinking this so easy process but i want to make sure I'm doing this correctly and not ruining my bike. Thanks

 

My dipped beam blew yesterday, no problem I thought, I've got a spare H4 bulb, away we we go............

What an absolute ball-ache!!! Remove righthand side fairing top cover to access the bulb the Haynes manual says, yes if you merely want to touch the back of the headlamp and no more.

I ended up with both top covers, mirror covers, screen, instrument nacelle and instruments unbolted to get to the back of the headlamp, (just about), only to discover that the bulb retaining clip was broken and the rubber cover for the back of the bulb had been attacked with a knife removing whatever from around the contact pins for the bulb. I have had to reinstall my spare bulb without the retaining clip, the rubber surround seems to be doing a good job of holding the bulb in place temporarily until I can source some new bits.

It looks like I'll have to remove the whole of the upper fairing to effect a replacement of the headlamp, or a new retaining clip, plus I will need a new sealing rubber or knowing my luck I'll end up with water ingress into the headamp and another blown bulb.

I now remember why I've never owned a bike with a full fairing before lol!!!!

Cheers, Steve

 

JLPINEDAS - just pull the lower hose at the pump - you'll get all the coolant you need out - out
Then fill it back up with premix 50/50 - let it burp a few times
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Put the 1990 carbs on my 1987 -- now it runs sooooooooooooooo smooooooovvvve
Only change required to put MK2 carbs on a MK1 -

A cap for the 1990 carb petcock port - I robbed a vac cap form the original carbs

& of course the fuel feed is waaaay better now
going round back and in from the right side as opposed
the hard 180 and down in the left as was before with original
carb's.

Carb intake(s) foot print is the same as are all the throttle and choke lines everything
bolts up and attaches just hunky dory.

Observation - have to say the castings and design of the MK 2 carbs are a marked
improvement over the original 87 88 carbs --- imo

Oh and when I pulled the original carbs - most of the pilots were gunked from the
tank rust problem and each bowl had nice healthy 2mm high amount of rust residue
in them.

No pilot to mains acceleration hesitation anymore - seems to me the pilot jets
and air screws are more susceptible to clogging by virtue of the castings & methods
employed in manufacturing the MK1 carb's and may explain why a lot of MK1 owners
have that hesitation issue ! which is due to pilots fouling very easily

.. Just my humble opinion hope it helps others with the hesitation issues

My advice for MK1 owners with carb issues - find a set of MK2's and fit 'em up
as I said - they are in my opinion a much better design

 

Hi Steve,

It's really not a massive job to remove the top fairing... the clocks don't need to be touched, just remove the panels and the mirrors ... an hour tops!

Don't ask me how I know ... lol lol lol

 

Thanks Mark, I was having a think about it tonight, I probably made it harder by NOT removing the top fairing, really with it in place there's no room to work at the back of the headlight unit.

I've posted a couple of pics of the bulb retaining spring, I thought it had been snapped, now I'm not so sure but can't find a photo of one, any ideas?

I need a new rubber to seal the bulb in anyway so I'm going to have another go and take off the top fairing to see if I can get the retaining clip back on.

Cheers, Steve

 

Steve...
This is how I usually do it ...

Remove seat
Remove mid side panels (the one's with the air intakes)
Remove belly pan
Remove mid side fairings (the big ones)
Remove mirrors
Remove top fairing infil panels (around the front of the tank - fusebox covers?)
Disconnect indicators
Remove inner screen support covers from upper fairing
Remove screen
Remove upper fairing


Sounds a lot, but isn't really ... from memory, 26 fasteners at the most! But there's probably a way to do it without removing the lower fairings...

 

Drank beer, prepped mating surfaces. Gasket in next Tuesday

 

I find that the mating surface always looks better after a few beers making it much easier to mate.

 

A couple more and I'll be putting on my mating surface goggles