What have you done to your CBR 1000f today?
#1711
Hmmmmmmmmmmmm, beer goggles! Used 'em a little too often in my yoof.............................. Went to bed with some gorgeous lasses, often woke up with fleas
Get into it Wooferdog, just check your work in the morning.
Cheers, SB
Oh! to get back on topic. I bought a frame and seat for a '91 CBR1000F and am having it personally delivered care of Naga-Thai from Melbourne.
I do see a big Barossa Red night looming!
Get into it Wooferdog, just check your work in the morning.
Cheers, SB
Oh! to get back on topic. I bought a frame and seat for a '91 CBR1000F and am having it personally delivered care of Naga-Thai from Melbourne.
I do see a big Barossa Red night looming!
#1712
My dipped beam blew yesterday, no problem I thought, I've got a spare H4 bulb, away we we go............
What an absolute ball-ache!!! Remove righthand side fairing top cover to access the bulb the Haynes manual says, yes if you merely want to touch the back of the headlamp and no more.
I ended up with both top covers, mirror covers, screen, instrument nacelle and instruments unbolted to get to the back of the headlamp, (just about), only to discover that the bulb retaining clip was broken and the rubber cover for the back of the bulb had been attacked with a knife removing whatever from around the contact pins for the bulb. I have had to reinstall my spare bulb without the retaining clip, the rubber surround seems to be doing a good job of holding the bulb in place temporarily until I can source some new bits.
It looks like I'll have to remove the whole of the upper fairing to effect a replacement of the headlamp, or a new retaining clip, plus I will need a new sealing rubber or knowing my luck I'll end up with water ingress into the headamp and another blown bulb.
I now remember why I've never owned a bike with a full fairing before lol!!!!
Cheers, Steve
What an absolute ball-ache!!! Remove righthand side fairing top cover to access the bulb the Haynes manual says, yes if you merely want to touch the back of the headlamp and no more.
I ended up with both top covers, mirror covers, screen, instrument nacelle and instruments unbolted to get to the back of the headlamp, (just about), only to discover that the bulb retaining clip was broken and the rubber cover for the back of the bulb had been attacked with a knife removing whatever from around the contact pins for the bulb. I have had to reinstall my spare bulb without the retaining clip, the rubber surround seems to be doing a good job of holding the bulb in place temporarily until I can source some new bits.
It looks like I'll have to remove the whole of the upper fairing to effect a replacement of the headlamp, or a new retaining clip, plus I will need a new sealing rubber or knowing my luck I'll end up with water ingress into the headamp and another blown bulb.
I now remember why I've never owned a bike with a full fairing before lol!!!!
Cheers, Steve
#1713
I replaced the bushes in the top of the rear shock this arvo. Easy job doing the bushes just a little more labour intensive getting the shock out. Ended up having to take the swing arm out which wasn't a big deal. I'm going to replace the chain guide rubber on the swing arm before I put it back together. I'd have loved to put a new shock in her but funds don't allow that atm. At least there wont be any upward play in the rear now ( I hope ).
#1715
#1716
JLPINEDAS - just pull the lower hose at the pump - you'll get all the coolant you need out - out
Then fill it back up with premix 50/50 - let it burp a few times
__________________________________________________ ____________________________
Put the 1990 carbs on my 1987 -- now it runs sooooooooooooooo smooooooovvvve
Only change required to put MK2 carbs on a MK1 -
A cap for the 1990 carb petcock port - I robbed a vac cap form the original carbs
& of course the fuel feed is waaaay better now
going round back and in from the right side as opposed
the hard 180 and down in the left as was before with original
carb's.
Carb intake(s) foot print is the same as are all the throttle and choke lines everything
bolts up and attaches just hunky dory.
Observation - have to say the castings and design of the MK 2 carbs are a marked
improvement over the original 87 88 carbs --- imo
Oh and when I pulled the original carbs - most of the pilots were gunked from the
tank rust problem and each bowl had nice healthy 2mm high amount of rust residue
in them.
No pilot to mains acceleration hesitation anymore - seems to me the pilot jets
and air screws are more susceptible to clogging by virtue of the castings & methods
employed in manufacturing the MK1 carb's and may explain why a lot of MK1 owners
have that hesitation issue ! which is due to pilots fouling very easily
.. Just my humble opinion hope it helps others with the hesitation issues
My advice for MK1 owners with carb issues - find a set of MK2's and fit 'em up
as I said - they are in my opinion a much better design
Then fill it back up with premix 50/50 - let it burp a few times
__________________________________________________ ____________________________
Put the 1990 carbs on my 1987 -- now it runs sooooooooooooooo smooooooovvvve
Only change required to put MK2 carbs on a MK1 -
A cap for the 1990 carb petcock port - I robbed a vac cap form the original carbs
& of course the fuel feed is waaaay better now
going round back and in from the right side as opposed
the hard 180 and down in the left as was before with original
carb's.
Carb intake(s) foot print is the same as are all the throttle and choke lines everything
bolts up and attaches just hunky dory.
Observation - have to say the castings and design of the MK 2 carbs are a marked
improvement over the original 87 88 carbs --- imo
Oh and when I pulled the original carbs - most of the pilots were gunked from the
tank rust problem and each bowl had nice healthy 2mm high amount of rust residue
in them.
No pilot to mains acceleration hesitation anymore - seems to me the pilot jets
and air screws are more susceptible to clogging by virtue of the castings & methods
employed in manufacturing the MK1 carb's and may explain why a lot of MK1 owners
have that hesitation issue ! which is due to pilots fouling very easily
.. Just my humble opinion hope it helps others with the hesitation issues
My advice for MK1 owners with carb issues - find a set of MK2's and fit 'em up
as I said - they are in my opinion a much better design
Winter Project...
#1718
Thanks Shadow, will do, I just need to get a new rubber boot for the back of the headlight then I'll have it apart again to sort it.
Cheers, Steve
#1719
Coolant flush
I flushed the coolant. I used distill water to rinse it out then drain it, refill it with distill water again; however, i had to get going so i left the distill water in it. I will drain it again tonight and add 50/50 prestone aluminum safe coolant. I will post pics later and how to do as well.