No spark= Unhappy
....At least when it comes to a no spark condition! LOL
Well if I can get the bike running and it not cost me a fortune. I will be rebuilding the engine and going 1mm over in the winter. Plus all of the other mods I have planned. I will be a knowledgeable member in all due time. Plus the bike will be sick as hell when I am all done with her. Please contribute on my issue if you have any ideas. Thanks
Hey Demon,
You have been a big help throughout so no worries. I would say if there is some sort of spark then the harness and ecm should be all good and the coils checked out when I tested them. The kill switch is all good, the fuses and relays are all good, and the battery is good. So I am going to buy new IPG and CPG rotors and a new CPG as well as a new side stand switch since I had to repair it and maybe a new neutral switch and harness and see where that gets me. Even if the neutral light is working properly is there a chance it may prevent spark. I am tired of messing with this and just want to get this over with and if another $200 in parts will fix my problem then it is well worth it. Plus I will have new parts and will not have to worry for awhile. I am first going to rule out the plugs and get a fresh plug tomorrow to try. The servo motor is constantly running since resetting the ecm earlier does this mean anything. Plus their are no codes flashing after resetting the ecm.
You have been a big help throughout so no worries. I would say if there is some sort of spark then the harness and ecm should be all good and the coils checked out when I tested them. The kill switch is all good, the fuses and relays are all good, and the battery is good. So I am going to buy new IPG and CPG rotors and a new CPG as well as a new side stand switch since I had to repair it and maybe a new neutral switch and harness and see where that gets me. Even if the neutral light is working properly is there a chance it may prevent spark. I am tired of messing with this and just want to get this over with and if another $200 in parts will fix my problem then it is well worth it. Plus I will have new parts and will not have to worry for awhile. I am first going to rule out the plugs and get a fresh plug tomorrow to try. The servo motor is constantly running since resetting the ecm earlier does this mean anything. Plus their are no codes flashing after resetting the ecm.
I tried a few diodes but was unsuccessful so I just bought a new base contact for the ignition switch and installed it yesterday with a new IPG sensor.
I am starting to think more and more that this is a timing issue and I did not set the timing correctly and it is way off. Would this cause a no spark issue. I believe I set the timing with the wrong piston at TDC. This may sound like a novice question but which piston is #1 the brake side or clutch side.
I am starting to think more and more that this is a timing issue and I did not set the timing correctly and it is way off. Would this cause a no spark issue. I believe I set the timing with the wrong piston at TDC. This may sound like a novice question but which piston is #1 the brake side or clutch side.
You make sure your timing cogs on the cams are in the right orientation with the lobes on CYL 1 (which is the furthest away from you). Once that is determined to be in the right position you line the hashes up on the cam cogs to be flat with the head. And those lines have to be flat along the edge of the head when the line for T on the ignition rotor is lined up with the notch on the clutch cover
I've got pictures of it on pg. 11 in my fighter thread.
It wouldn't cause no spark, but it wouldn't spark at the right moment, and the motor would run..
Have you turned the motor by hand? To make sure none of the valves hit the pistons or anything? That's what would worry me.
Last edited by Conrice; Sep 1, 2013 at 08:05 PM. Reason: grammar - hard to follow
Clutch lever/stator side is #1, but it doesn't matter for setting timing. I mean, it matters for sure, but it's not how you set timing with the ignition rotor on the crank. Pull the valve cover off, pull the timing cap off of the clutch cover. Look in the manual and follow the directions.
You make sure your timing cogs on the cams are in the right orientation with the lobes on CYL 1 (which is the furthest away from you). Once that is determined to be in the right position you line the hashes up on the cam cogs to be flat with the head. And those lines have to be flat along the edge of the head when the line for T on the ignition rotor is lined up with the notch on the clutch cover
I've got pictures of it on pg. 11 in my fighter thread.
It wouldn't cause no spark, but it wouldn't spark at the right moment, and the motor would run..
Have you turned the motor by hand? To make sure none of the valves hit the pistons or anything? That's what would worry me.
You make sure your timing cogs on the cams are in the right orientation with the lobes on CYL 1 (which is the furthest away from you). Once that is determined to be in the right position you line the hashes up on the cam cogs to be flat with the head. And those lines have to be flat along the edge of the head when the line for T on the ignition rotor is lined up with the notch on the clutch cover
I've got pictures of it on pg. 11 in my fighter thread.
It wouldn't cause no spark, but it wouldn't spark at the right moment, and the motor would run..
Have you turned the motor by hand? To make sure none of the valves hit the pistons or anything? That's what would worry me.
Yeah your thread is what got me thinking and I believe I set it with piston 4 tdc and with the marks facing each other inwards and not how yours is. I did not follow the manual properly I guess. I was in a hurry and wanted to ride but now months later I am still not riding. I am getting some spark but not like it should be. I will tear into it when I get a chance and set it properly and see what happens. Thanks Conrice
Anyways, it happens. There's no harm in going back and re-doing the timing.


