The diode is also called the Silicon Rectifier, its a small square relay that sits in the loom itself toward the rear , around the seat area, but these rarely go wrong

 

The whole harness and battery set up is different from stock, it has a air tech solo seat racing rear fairing and I relocated the starter relay and the battery into the tail. But I've looked all over and I can not find the silicon recitifier to save my life, but other than that I have no idea where to look next and I don't have the money to throw parts at it unless I can positively test something is bad first. Guess I'll keep looking until I can find it

 

This is what the Silicon Rectifier looks like
For Honda CBR 600 F 1994 Silicon Rectifier | eBay

 

Yep I don't have one, but the bike was running well for years. But just to clarify is it a resistor like it controls how much flow goes through? I'm just wondering how it would stop the spark? one wire from it does go to the icm so I'm thinking it could only help to rewire it to be like the diagram but I'm just curious as it has spark not too long ago

 

Never known a Silicon Rectifier to go wrong, you have got to look elsewhere, did you use the paper clip to bypass the clutch to get rid of that as a culprit

 

Yeah i jumped it using a fuse, it fits the connectors perfectly and does the job, but still no spark.

I do not have a silicon rectifier on the bike, and I haven't taken one off just how I got it. Should I get a new one and wire it in? I've never had an issue not having it but if I need it I will no problem. Assuming the neutral switch works and the clutch switch is bypassed and the icm get continuity when it should, how would not having the silicon rectifier stop spark?

 

Probably think the diode is ok, as it was before, have you tried the kill switch to see if your getting 12v in and out of it, turn on ignition kill switch at run and back probe the connector on the Black wire should get 12v, then do the same to the Black/White wire and should get 12v there too

 

Just thinking out loud here

I have +13v at the coils on both posts with the ignition turned on, so with the test light connected to the posigive terminal and the negative side of the coils with the key on I shouldn't get a light right? Since I'm just connecting two 13v lines.

It should light up when the pulse generator sends the signal and the icm switches the low side of the coil to ground.

Assuming that the icm is good (video of it running in a bike before it was taken off and sold to me) and I have a brand new one from Caltric. So I'm thinking that even though the pulse generator passed the resistance test in the maunal is it possible that it's not sending the signal?

Is there a way to isolate the pulse generator and use a test light to see if it is sending a signal? I'd rather try not to open it up and look at is because that would require a ne gasket not that big of a deal just would take time to ship it

 

I'm getting .1-.2v max coming from the pulse generator while cranking, could this be a problem? The manual doesn't specify what signal or how much should be coming from the pulse generator

Reading other forums (f4i not a f2) their getting .7-.9v

 

I've tried to get the voltage reading from the pulse generator a few times now and on the 3 or 4th try I did see a spike to .6v!!! I'm not 100% sure but it seem so that my pulse generator is bad? At the very least inconsistent, it sure would be nice for Honda to include some test and some standard specs to compare to but that's water under the bridge at this point.

I ordered a new gasket for the cover, I think I'm going to pull the cover off to make sure everything looks how it's supposed to be and if everything looks good I'm going to order another pulse generator. Everything else in the system has been rewired replaced tested or cleaned so the pulse signal is just about my last resort. Fingers crossed this solves my spark problem