I get about .3-.4 ohms through the kill switch by its self and I get the same thing for the ground between the cylinder heads and the battery and same thing for where the Icm grounds so I'm pretty sure the grounds are fine.

I'll check the resistance between the starter relay and the junction after the kill switch that connects to the coils

 

-About .3 ohms through the kill switch
-About .3 ohms through ground (any ground spot to battery post)
-About .6 ohms through ignition switch (problem?)
-About .3 ohms resistance in wire between starter relay out and ignition coil in (I'll test
starter relay to ignition switch out next)
-About 500 ohms through pulse generator (perfect according to manual)

-Hot side of coils stays around 11v while cranking
-Low side starts at 12v before cranking and quickly drops to about 2v while cranking

I keep randomly seeing spark which makes me feel like I'm on the right track and it's just something small, I'll keep diagnosing anything electrical I can.

 

Cant remember , but did you take the coils out and check them with the multi meter, just to get back to base, the engine cranks but wont start?

 

Yeah I have but I will go out and recheck them and I will rerun the 16-6 icm tests and post the values just so I have everything in one place and triple check everything. One thing I will say is that I get the spark on the 1-4 coil not the 2-3 but it's very random. I'll also test the plug wires again. Still seems like it's not an individual coil problem but a problem somewhere further up the system before they split for the coils

I get about 500 ohms through the pulse generator which is perfect according to the manual so that checks out I should be getting the signal

I was also going to connect the low side of the coils to a test light and the other side of the light to the positive battery post? It should pulse dim or light up when it's getting it's sing nail to spark right? Just trying to isloate the coils if possible.

 

I'm adding to the list, I re ran the 16-6 icm tests and 16-7 coil and wire tests

16-6 tests:
Power - good
Pulse gen - 494 ohms good
Ignition primary coil - 3.1 ohms
Neutral switch - good
Kick stand switch - good
Ground - good

16-7 tests:
Coil posts: 1/4 - 3.1 ohms 2/3 - 3.1 ohms
Wires: 1/4 - 24.5 k ohms 2/3 - 24.7 k ohms

Both are near the top of what the manual calls for but they both should be good and I should get spark from them even if it's somewhat weak

I also pulled out the kill switch and lightly sanded down to fresh copper on both sides and used new dielectric grease it works fine and shouldn't be the problem

Oh and just for the basics battery has 13.18v on the tender before cranking

 

Well it seems you have Air and Spark , how about fuel is that pumping through OK.

 

That's the weird part! I STILL don't have any spark?!?

I pulled out the ingnition switch which was replaced a few years ago after it was stolen and recovered and the solders look perfect and there's no diode in it so that's not the issue

As far as fuel I'm gravity feeding supreme gas with an auxiliary tank, the carbs were pulled jets changed shims adjusted and pilot jet adjusted back to stock (about 2.25 turns, using a marked pilot jet adjustment bit so I know that's accurate) carbs ar working perfectly and are completely clean, right after I pulled cleaned and adjusted them the spark stopped (I've got terrible luck)

I'm running out of things to check, I might try to get a used icm from a running bike just to be positive that it's not the (new) icm. Has any one else ever had any issues with Caltric icm?

I have a updated regulator that does not go through the starter relay so I don't know how the charging system would effect the ignition side if my battery has full charge. I once had a regulator knocked off and continued to drive home for miles because the battery had enough charge to make it home... So as long as it's charged now I should have spark even if I'm not charging how I should be, besides I thought that the stator on these bikes were only really helpful after like 3k rpm when it's spinning fast enough to make the proper voltage recharge?

The solders on the start button and kill switch look almost black on top but I don't have any resistance issues? Should I try to clean them or resolder them? The starter button never has any issues and the kill switch has continuity and only .3 ohms resistance through it so both seem like they are working just fine but like I said I'm running out of things to check/fix

 

Hi when you bypassed the usual suspects did you bypass the clutch switch at the lever?

 

I thought about the clutch switch aswell but weirdly when I bought the bike it was never connected, and the bike ran for years perfectly without it? it must have been jumped somehow by the previous owner. I'll pull out the wiring diagram again and make sure that it's connected properly. That certainly seems like a good direction to go in next but the weird part is that I didn't change anything with the clutch switch, how could the jump just stop working assuming they jumped it?

I had spark and it was running, I came back the next day and no spark.... Only thing I did in between was weld in o2 bungs into the exhaust for a a:f wideband tune but that should have done anything to the eleconics... I took the headers off and bench welded them

Side note, I still have not used a test light on the coils to confirm pulse signal. I got oil for my truck today and forgot to pick one up, I'll go later and get one to run the test

 

I noticed two things:

The clutch switch eventually connects with the kick stand switch and a diode?? Where is the diode at? I haven't ever seen a diode on my f2 I must be missing something or was it in the stock r/r?

If the side stand switch connects with the clutch switch, and I get the proper signal from the light green wire at the icm then that should mean that doing the clutch switch wouldn't change anything because I already get the correct signal (continuity). Either way I'll try to bring it back to stock just so my bike harness matches the stock but I don't know what to do about the diode...