Just for info, what sort of ECU and electronics are you adding to the bike

 

Mofset FH020AA regulator, Caltric icm (they list it as a open replacement) everything else is stock as far as the electronics go

 

Just wondered why you want to put an O2 sensor in for a wideband tune, are you putting an A/F meter on, would have gone for a second hand working ecu myself rather than Caltric

 

Yeah I'm starting to regret my decision as well I think I might just get a used one pulled from a running bike. I emailed Caltric and asked for a pinout to confirm the wiring from them is the same and I haven't heard anything back in over a week, is what it is. I have heard about connection issues with the plugs from other Caltric products but I only read that in reviews after I bought it. I did notice that when cranking the tach jumps around as if it's getting the signal the coils should be getting, which is why I asked them for a pinout. That didn't happen with the Oem one. I just figured it was listed as a direct replacement for Oem and it was brand new so I thought it was trust worthy but I guess not

As Far as the a:f gauge goes I'm fuel injecting a first gen zx6r so I already have it and I'm using it to tune and set the tables, I currently have it set up on the cbr on a bench stand that holds the aux tank. So it's not permanent right now nor will it be

For the cbr I'll use it to tune the pilot jets at idle, the jets in the bowls are non adjustable but I can get the a:f at the different rpms associated with each jet the low mid and high ranges just to make sure I'm not crazy rich or lean.

More importantly I can get the a:f for each cyclinder independently and adjust their pilots individually to make sure I can get the best idle possible. Then I can put it in the merged section and take the collected value just to double check. I don't have a egt kit or I would put in some egt bungs and get the temps while tuning as well. I figure the more data the better I can understand whats happening in the motor and tune it better, no harm no foul. Plus I love tig welding and will take any excuse to do some welding even if it's just practice haha

 

I just bought another cdi, this time off eBay $40 original and used but he had a video of the bike running his shop before he broke it down so I know for a fact that it works and it's Oem so once it gets here I'll plug it in and try it out again fingers crossed I'll have spark

 

Yes , was helping another guy on a different Forum , he got 2 from Caltric both didn't work , and he settled for the used one, started right up , hoping it's the same for you, generally the pinout is top to bottom ,left to right but from experience that doesn't always work out either

 

I got the new icm and still no spark, it did solve the problem of the tach jumping around but not the spark issue. I'm rechecking the clutch switch wiring now to make sure it's right

 

Yes ,you can jump the wire's at the clutch lever, just to bypass it

 

Yeah I went out and took a look at it and it was jumped with a 5A fuse I put in a new fuse even though the old one was fine. Still no spark, I'm really scratching my head over this. But the only thing left unchecked (looking at the wiring diagram) is the diode but I can't find any diodes on my harness... The black wires go into the controls then back out to the clutch switch, is the diode in the controls? Stock diagram as it being fed by the green red and green not by the black wires at the clutch switch. Or is it in the fuse block? I opened it up and it seemed to be a straight forward fuse block but never know I guess

How much voltage should I have at the low side of the coils?

 

Hi , not sure what you mean by the fuse, all you need to do is take off the two connectors at the clutch lever and stick in a paper clip into the 2 connectors harness side joining them together to bypass the clutch