This Honda CBR 600 engine had the kill switch button on it along with the push button. It all worked fine, however since the engine is now on a go kart frame and the wiring was too short.. I cut the wires and extended each one.. Plus I have a dash with cutout already made for a key ignition switch that I wanted to use.

As far as the year model the engine came off, I am not sure. I believe it's a 97 or 98 cbr 600.

Runs great and all, but when trying to figure out the wiring and what colors do what has been a headache to say the least.

I attached some before and after photos of the original starter and the back of the universal key switch.

I just need to know what wires go where on the univ ignition switch.

Originally: the red kill switch had two wires (orange black & white black)
Then there were two boot connectors coming off the side "I'm guessing for engine light or something.

Then on the push button there were only 4 colors (white/black, white/blue, red/black, & pink/yellow)

Then there were two wires a redish/pink wire and a red/black wire that were just spliced and wrapped on the side of the cart and he was saying to start it wrap these two wires together and then turn switch to on and then press button? It worked doing that with the original setup but Im confused by it because what's the point of the (off/run) switch if i have to tie wires together and unwrap them? I could use the kill switch to turn it off and most of the time I would just leave the red wire and red/black wire ties together and never untie them. Seems like these two wires are connected together it acts as the power source to power the starter switch?

I included a few pics to help show you. Any help is appreciated. Again, I just want to eliminate anything I don't need for the ignition switch and some help figuring out what wire goes where on the back of the new ignition switch.
It has four areas to attach to on the back.. If you switch the key to the left its "accessories" doesn't really apply to this build if you ask me. The other three (starter/battery/ignition) and I included a pic (center bolt is starter)

 

for the year have a look at the engine number above the clutch it should be a pc25e motor which means its either an F2 91-94 or F3 95-98 and then look on the left hand side of the carbs if there is a little black "thing" for lack of a better word attached to the side of the carbs it is an F3 if not its an F2 thats little black "thingy" is the throttle position sensor.

the 2 wires that he said wrap together are from the ignition barrel so if you are having an ignition barrel thats were they want to go the original ignition didn't have many wires as it were (i cant say how many in public can i...)

i would personally get a lanyard kill switch and wire that to the original kill switch wires and then a starter button and wire that up its all very simple.

thats universal one is trying to do everything like a car type one and that just becomes a headache and remember the more buttons there are the cooler your start up procedure becomes

 

Thanks for the great info! I took your advice and wire a switch for on/off and then ran another for a key. So you just turn the switch to on and then turn the key and boom.. Engine to your ears!

However, I have now done something to the clutch. I was adjusting it and heard a pop. And now the tension is little to none, just the return spring outside the clutch cover doing it. Internally I hope I didn't "break" something that's going to cost me a lot $$$. Any idea whatnot might be?

Again, thanks for your help and knowledge. You definitely helped me out in your previous reply. I couldn't find a "thanks" button on the thread. I think cause Im new to the forum, otherwise I'd give you 10 THANKS!

 

no thats just the way this forum works unfortunately

how was you adjusting the clutch? do you mean the cable? because they can fray/snap and even rust up in some cases.

there isnt alot to break inside the clutch a few bolts and springs and some bearings

 

I was adjusting it on the lever and above the clutch casing and I think it may have frayed or rusted or something. I'm not sure that was the entire cause of the popping sound but I went ahead and went up to our local honda dealer and bought a new clutch cable. So hopefully that will fix it.

I also took apart the clutch cover and adjusted the actuator arm and revealed it and placed it all back.. Putting new cable on now so hopefully that will work.

 

could the actuator arm have been slightly out of place? it could have just popped back into position under load

 

I am thinking that is what happen. How much tension should be on the spring outside the case? Should you be able to move the actuator arm that connects to the cable with your finger? I remember before the pop sound happened it was so tight I could push it by hand and now it's easy to push.

 

does it move a little bit and then become very stiff or you can push it all the way as if you were pushing the clutch plates? mine moves slightly easily then it puts pressure on the springs and i cant move it by hand, whats it like at the lever end?? sounds like something is a miss with the actuator arm although there not a lot to them so maybe it popped off rather than into the correct position