1987 Hurricane to 2003 CBR600RR Conversion
I have a Corbin on the Norton and the 919. The foam they use feels firm but it conforms to your butt as you ride it...sort of like good shoes. They are comfortable seats and very well made. I have a Mustang seat on the trike and that is the same...very comfortable. My old butt has to have good seats.
Been working on all the little stuff. Wiring, hoses, had to make a gasket for the timing cover because couldn't find one.
I turned it over yesterday just to see that the starter was working. It's good to go.
Did a wiring diagram for the RR wiring...to the front so I can splice in the RR wiring harness.
I cleaned the carbs and got the new boots on. So much easier to install the carb rack with new boots...but dang they were expensive.
I should be ready to fire it up soon...another big milestone. Got to keep plugging so I can get it on the road.
I turned it over yesterday just to see that the starter was working. It's good to go.
Did a wiring diagram for the RR wiring...to the front so I can splice in the RR wiring harness.
I cleaned the carbs and got the new boots on. So much easier to install the carb rack with new boots...but dang they were expensive.
I should be ready to fire it up soon...another big milestone. Got to keep plugging so I can get it on the road.
If it's any consolation you are ahead of me. I just got the rear caliper and master cylinder rebuilt this week. Found out inadvertently that the 2K clear gloss is very resistant to brake fluid after the bleeder hose popped off during bleeding. Unfortunately I also found out that Duplicolor caliper paint washes right off with brake fluid, in spite of marketing copy suggesting that it is "resistant to automotive chemicals". I'm thinking that some of the high temp 2K clear spray might be the thing to overcoat it with.
Hopefully I will get the front brakes finished next week and then it will be on to getting all that stuff under the tank and seat installed and getting the wiring started.
Hopefully I will get the front brakes finished next week and then it will be on to getting all that stuff under the tank and seat installed and getting the wiring started.
The devil is in the details. It's hard to explain how much work it is to do this. So many small things that take time, slow you down or do over. Parts you forgot you needed. Hang in there we are on the home stretch.
Didn't get all the brake parts in I need to do that job this weekend, so got the original wiring harness cleaned up, loose ends re-taped and a lot of it routed and connected yesterday.
As we discussed previously the fuse panel was a little tricky to fit under the fairing trim panel. I ended up mounting it under the existing mounting brackets with a 5x20mm screw coming up through the fuse box from underneath the front mounting tab. The bracket for all of the front harness plugs also has a clearance issue with the trim panel and the left headlight, so I left off last night beginning to suspend the various connections with zip ties from the original holes in the bracket. I'm saving adapting all the new stuff like the lights and instrument panel for after I have the harness completely in place.
I have installed a MOSFET rectifier/regulator from an R1 which bolts right up to the original R/R bracket and just requires new connectors. When I last ran the motor it wouldn't rev above about 5K and I have read that a failing reg can create that situation, so I used that as my excuse to try the MOSFET reg.
And I wish I had read in advance that you should put the coolant overflow bottle in before you install the rear shock! Pain in the butt to undo it just to squeeze that jug into place.
As we discussed previously the fuse panel was a little tricky to fit under the fairing trim panel. I ended up mounting it under the existing mounting brackets with a 5x20mm screw coming up through the fuse box from underneath the front mounting tab. The bracket for all of the front harness plugs also has a clearance issue with the trim panel and the left headlight, so I left off last night beginning to suspend the various connections with zip ties from the original holes in the bracket. I'm saving adapting all the new stuff like the lights and instrument panel for after I have the harness completely in place.
I have installed a MOSFET rectifier/regulator from an R1 which bolts right up to the original R/R bracket and just requires new connectors. When I last ran the motor it wouldn't rev above about 5K and I have read that a failing reg can create that situation, so I used that as my excuse to try the MOSFET reg.
And I wish I had read in advance that you should put the coolant overflow bottle in before you install the rear shock! Pain in the butt to undo it just to squeeze that jug into place.
Funny we are dealing with all the same issues. On the front plug bracket I just bent it at an angle where the interference was. As I mentioned before our fairing positions might be a little different so you may have more interference there. Mine was just barely touching.
Not sure what you did with the fuse block with your description. Post a picture please. I bent my fairing arm down a bit and it seems to fit better. I have the full fuse block with the cover, so it sticks up further.
The coolant bottle is a puzzler. It fits in there even with the shock in place but you have to maneuver it in just the right way. I was lucky to have other bikes to look at to figure it out...it's very helpful to look at them as a guide when you get stuck with something.
I messed my back up this morning getting out of bed. I've had surgery twice in the last 2 years on it and it is one of the reasons it has taken me so long to finish this bike. I'm stuck in a chair right now and hoping it is not out again because I will need fusion surgery this time...that will put me out of commission for quite a while...it's really hard getting old. Too many crashes in my younger days have caught up with me.
Not sure what you did with the fuse block with your description. Post a picture please. I bent my fairing arm down a bit and it seems to fit better. I have the full fuse block with the cover, so it sticks up further.
The coolant bottle is a puzzler. It fits in there even with the shock in place but you have to maneuver it in just the right way. I was lucky to have other bikes to look at to figure it out...it's very helpful to look at them as a guide when you get stuck with something.
I messed my back up this morning getting out of bed. I've had surgery twice in the last 2 years on it and it is one of the reasons it has taken me so long to finish this bike. I'm stuck in a chair right now and hoping it is not out again because I will need fusion surgery this time...that will put me out of commission for quite a while...it's really hard getting old. Too many crashes in my younger days have caught up with me.
Ouch! Feel better! Bad backs are brutal. It's not a race, get yourself back into good shape first so you can enjoy completing project. As my mom who passed away at 94 used to say, "getting old is not for sissies."
The fuse panel cover was missing on my bike, making the decision to leave it off pretty easy. Probably not the best approach in terms of weather protection, but it opened up the possibility of slipping the panel under the mounting brackets rather than sitting on top of them.

It may well be the fairing position on mine is such that the plugs that I could put in the bracket interfere with the very front of the fairing trim panel and the holes that are inboard of the fairing are mostly covered by the headlight bucket. I think my zip tie approach will make for a workable solution. Tried to take a pic but it was pretty unintelligible, black-on-black parts and a snarl of wires and connectors.
This stuff does make for a lot of standing around scratching one's head. Makes me respect the engineers who crammed all those bits in there in the first place.
The fuse panel cover was missing on my bike, making the decision to leave it off pretty easy. Probably not the best approach in terms of weather protection, but it opened up the possibility of slipping the panel under the mounting brackets rather than sitting on top of them.

It may well be the fairing position on mine is such that the plugs that I could put in the bracket interfere with the very front of the fairing trim panel and the holes that are inboard of the fairing are mostly covered by the headlight bucket. I think my zip tie approach will make for a workable solution. Tried to take a pic but it was pretty unintelligible, black-on-black parts and a snarl of wires and connectors.
This stuff does make for a lot of standing around scratching one's head. Makes me respect the engineers who crammed all those bits in there in the first place.
Last edited by Doc B.; Aug 25, 2014 at 12:08 PM.
Just a note for future reference -
I had a minor clearance issue with the rear brake pedal assembly and the F2 rear hugger. The locking ring on the brake light switch rubs against the very front of the hugger, as does the overflow line from the gas tank. I ended up spacing the right rearset out from the frame with a washer at each bolt hole, about .040 thick. That eases things up a bit for the brake switch, but I may add another washer to make a little more clearance, or simply file a flat on the locking ring on the brake switch. For now the overflow line is squeaking a bit as the swingarm goes up and down until I figure out a solution for it.
In the plus column the rear brake is completely rebuilt, fully bled and working well. Using the usual "pump and hold a few times" method I ended up with a really spongy pedal. Found I had to pump the pedal pretty stoutly to get the last of the air out of the line. Working on the fronts this afternoon.
I had a minor clearance issue with the rear brake pedal assembly and the F2 rear hugger. The locking ring on the brake light switch rubs against the very front of the hugger, as does the overflow line from the gas tank. I ended up spacing the right rearset out from the frame with a washer at each bolt hole, about .040 thick. That eases things up a bit for the brake switch, but I may add another washer to make a little more clearance, or simply file a flat on the locking ring on the brake switch. For now the overflow line is squeaking a bit as the swingarm goes up and down until I figure out a solution for it.
In the plus column the rear brake is completely rebuilt, fully bled and working well. Using the usual "pump and hold a few times" method I ended up with a really spongy pedal. Found I had to pump the pedal pretty stoutly to get the last of the air out of the line. Working on the fronts this afternoon.
Last edited by Doc B.; Aug 28, 2014 at 04:07 PM.


