Sorry, I hadn't read Icognito's post first, I second the coolant flush. Flush the coolant and replace the thermostat, making sure those lines are clean, maybe replace those hoses.

 

what coolant should i use? is it ok to use "peak 50/50"?

 

The Prestone Extended Life is what's in my bike; safe to use. Make sure it doesn't contain silicates & it's safe for all metals. Here's the back panel:

 

Ok. I was thinking that if the wax unit does not work properly, then I should adjust it manually in order to lower the rpms at idle. So I unscrewed the top nut (circled) that keeps the wax unit rod together with the metal arm which controls the valves. I was able to close the valves but I did open them just a bit by screwing the top nut (circled) on just a bit. The good thing is that I will be able to fully control the idle with the idle ****. Do you guys think it's safe to ride the bike like this? I dont see why not, but perhaps I'm not seeing something. Thanks.

 

hey mbison83 did you fix you idle. My bike has started to idle at 4k rpm. It even at 4k when the bike is at 150 degrees. thank you for anyhelp

 

i've swapped the throttle bodies, but what did the trick was unscrewing the tiny top nut on the wax unit and adjust it until the valves are closed shut (small pistons), then you can use the idle control **** to manually control the idle.

 

do you know where the wax unit is located? Also is this a difficult task? i don't have too much experience with motorcycles. If you can give me pictures and a better guide that would be extremely helpful. Also does this hurt the bike in anyway. Thank you

 

recently i got rid of all the pix, but u can see them within this thread. the wax unit is the device located on the left side, underneath the fuel rail. it has two thin hoses connected to it (vertically). what i was referring to is the small nut on top of the thin piston that controls the valves. loosen up the nut so that the valves close (see pix in this thread if you dont know what im talking about). also, make sure that the idle control ****, that is connected to the wax unit, does not have contact with the metal plate that moves the valves. once the valves are closed, turn the idle control **** until it has contact with the plate. close everything up and start the bike. you can now open the idle valves with a turn of the **** (full control over the idle - manual). hope this helps.

 

So if you set your idle to lets say 1200 does it stay at 1200 whether cold or warm? Mine revs up to 3500 when cold but idles fine when warm. I know this is normal but what my issue is is that the bike is pretty loud at 3500rpm and at 0600 the neighbours dont enjoy it. Would consider doing this if it would keep the idle constant all the time. I would still let the bike warm up but would keep the noice down.

 

well, it varies by temperature. usually the rpm's on my f4i get higher with temperature, so i figure the wax unit does not work as it should. however, i've fixed it so i could adjust the idle manually with a turn of the ****. i've already went through replacing the whole throttle body assembly (incl. wax unit), hoping it would fix the issue (it did not). im happy with what i did. i do not have issues with idle anymore. if i notice an unusual high idle while let's say waiting for the green light, i just turn the **** a bit and problem solved. however, this does not happen often. if you want, you could do what i did and have a constant idle. personally, i do not think it hurts the engine in any way. it could just make the warmup time a bit longer than usual though.