idling is too high
#41
UPDATE: Ok. So I did replace the throttle body assembly with a wax unit already on it, and it did not fix the idling even after warm up it hits 3.5k. Should I reset the ECU or something? because I'm out of ideas now. The idle **** is able to increase the idling but it can't decrease it below 3k. I did notice better engine response though, but that's about it.. I'm so confused now..
edit: My bike has a micron exhaust, and I've noticed the o2 sensor eliminator plugged in. I remember the previous owner saying to buy a new one. How do I check if the o2 sensor eliminator works properly? Would that cause the bike idling all weird? I do not get the FI light though.
edit: My bike has a micron exhaust, and I've noticed the o2 sensor eliminator plugged in. I remember the previous owner saying to buy a new one. How do I check if the o2 sensor eliminator works properly? Would that cause the bike idling all weird? I do not get the FI light though.
Last edited by mbison83; 10-02-2009 at 07:50 PM.
#42
I don't think the CO2 sensor would cause this. Tried doing a search on here & the net. You've got a pretty unique problem. Only things I came up with were vacuum hose leak/disconnected, PAIR hose leak/disco, and the throttle position sensor (n/a). May try re-posting in General Tech.
Are you sure your tachometer is reading correctly?
Are you sure your tachometer is reading correctly?
#43
I don't think the CO2 sensor would cause this. Tried doing a search on here & the net. You've got a pretty unique problem. Only things I came up with were vacuum hose leak/disconnected, PAIR hose leak/disco, and the throttle position sensor (n/a). May try re-posting in General Tech.
Are you sure your tachometer is reading correctly?
Are you sure your tachometer is reading correctly?
#44
I was thinking that you have a CA model, do you still have the evaporative canister? There are four vacuum lines attached to a five way connector which in turn runs a hose attached to the evap can. If it's been removed, then I'm wondering if that vacumm line has been stopped. Just throwing out suggestions.
Checking the supply & return hoses for proper flow on the WAX ought to be pretty easy.
Checking the supply & return hoses for proper flow on the WAX ought to be pretty easy.
#45
I was thinking that you have a CA model, do you still have the evaporative canister? There are four vacuum lines attached to a five way connector which in turn runs a hose attached to the evap can. If it's been removed, then I'm wondering if that vacumm line has been stopped. Just throwing out suggestions.
Checking the supply & return hoses for proper flow on the WAX ought to be pretty easy.
Checking the supply & return hoses for proper flow on the WAX ought to be pretty easy.
#46
Ok. So I checked stuff today and as I've looked at the manual I've realized I connected the two hoses that go to the wax unit wrong. I'm not quite sure what are the names of the devices that they connect to, but all I did was to disconnect them at the wax unit and switch them up. Anyway, that did not work lol I've turned the bike on, looked underneath and pushed the starter valves in a bit. This immediately caused the idling to drop. I guess the problem is that the valves do not close when they supposed to. I'd hate to believe that the 2nd wax unit that I got with the throttle body is faulty. Is the wax unit solely responsible for moving the valves? The idle **** is unscrewed to give the wax unit opportunity to act, but it does not. What else could be wrong? Perhaps the coolant does not get to it or what not. Any way to check if the wax unit works properly while on the bike? It is a PAIN in the butt to take the throttle bodies off. I'm stucked here. I need your help guys!
#47
When you originally removed these two hoses, was there coolant in them? You stated that there was a light blue residue inside. If it were me, I'd disconnect one of the hoses and start the engine. There should be coolant coming out of either the hose, or the wax unit, once the engine begins to warm. Careful not to get any on any painted surfaces. If no fluid comes out, then something's plugged up. Along those lines, inspect the coolant level on the bike.
#48
When you originally removed these two hoses, was there coolant in them? You stated that there was a light blue residue inside. If it were me, I'd disconnect one of the hoses and start the engine. There should be coolant coming out of either the hose, or the wax unit, once the engine begins to warm. Careful not to get any on any painted surfaces. If no fluid comes out, then something's plugged up. Along those lines, inspect the coolant level on the bike.
#49
When I took the hoses off the unit, the coolant was coming out of one of them, but not much of anything was coming out of the other one.
As for the starter valves, they're not the culprit, because you replaced the TB and still have the same problem. The same with the wax unit, you've replaced it, yet it still does the same thing, so the issue has to be elsewhere.
Last edited by Incognito; 10-04-2009 at 04:18 AM.
#50
Ok. So I checked stuff today and as I've looked at the manual I've realized I connected the two hoses that go to the wax unit wrong. I'm not quite sure what are the names of the devices that they connect to, but all I did was to disconnect them at the wax unit and switch them up. Anyway, that did not work lol I've turned the bike on, looked underneath and pushed the starter valves in a bit. This immediately caused the idling to drop. I guess the problem is that the valves do not close when they supposed to. I'd hate to believe that the 2nd wax unit that I got with the throttle body is faulty. Is the wax unit solely responsible for moving the valves? The idle **** is unscrewed to give the wax unit opportunity to act, but it does not. What else could be wrong? Perhaps the coolant does not get to it or what not. Any way to check if the wax unit works properly while on the bike? It is a PAIN in the butt to take the throttle bodies off. I'm stucked here. I need your help guys!