CBR 954RR 2002 - 2003 - CBR 954RR Forum

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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 04:07 PM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by Conrice

Damn that is half off, thanks. No mistake more money saved. WOOT
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 04:39 PM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by mika_u
Do you have the oem workshop manual on .pdf? You could do the guides and seats yourself allso. On the manual are the instructions. You would only need valve seat cutters and the reamer for valve guides. I wouldn't polish the exhaust ports. The exhaust gasses still flow better if it isn't polished. My exhaust ports are the same roughness as the intakes.

I'm not totally sure about my valve seats but i think that they are bigger then stock seats.
I am not going to do new valve guides, but I did see that in the manual. I am not going to do the valve job either since the seats look so nice and shiny and did not leak. I am just getting the head and valves cleaned, possibly doing the minor port job, and reinstalling everything with new seals and lapping in the valves to their original location. I don't want to be cheap but right now I have to be with all of the other things I got money tied up in. Maybe later I will have the head rebuilt with performance in mind but right now I am being a cheapskate.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 05:30 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by msebastianCBR
I am not going to do new valve guides, but I did see that in the manual. I am not going to do the valve job either since the seats look so nice and shiny and did not leak. I am just getting the head and valves cleaned, possibly doing the minor port job, and reinstalling everything with new seals and lapping in the valves to their original location. I don't want to be cheap but right now I have to be with all of the other things I got money tied up in. Maybe later I will have the head rebuilt with performance in mind but right now I am being a cheapskate.
The reamer just cleans the valve guides. You don't have to change them. You could ask them to do that in the machine shop. They won't probably charge many dollars for that and then you know for sure they are clean and the surface is smooth. Mine are allso just run through whit a reamer. They have had about 60000km behind them before the rebuild and that was all that was needed for them.

Take a little research about the lapping. If they don't leak many recommend you lap them just a little bit fit the fine paste. Not whit the rougher one at all. And just few seconds whit the finer paste.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2013 | 05:33 PM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by mika_u
The reamer just cleans the valve guides. You don't have to change them. You could ask them to do that in the machine shop. They won't probably charge many dollars for that and then you know for sure they are clean and the surface is smooth. Mine are allso just run through whit a reamer. They have had about 60000km behind them before the rebuild and that was all that was needed for them.

Take a little research about the lapping. If they don't leak many recommend you lap them just a little bit fit the fine paste. Not whit the rougher one at all. And just few seconds whit the finer paste.
Thanks for the info. I will ask the machine shop how much they charge to ream the valves guides and to lap in the valves. If it is too much I will do so myself.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2013 | 07:31 AM
  #135  
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Cylinder Head Porting - Head Games - Modified Magazine

http://www.modified.com/tech/0009scc...r_head_part_4/

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti...orsepower.aspx

Read these when you have time. I found it very informative about porting and flows on different areas of the intake port and valve seat. It could have some value to you before you start the porting And Conrice too.
 

Last edited by mika_u; Nov 8, 2013 at 11:52 AM. Reason: Added more links :)
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 08:54 AM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by mika_u
Cylinder Head Porting - Head Games - Modified Magazine

Secrets of the Cylinder Head: Part 4 - Tech - Sport Compact Car Magazine

Porting For Performance The Science of Horsepower: Engine Builder

Read these when you have time. I found it very informative about porting and flows on different areas of the intake port and valve seat. It could have some value to you before you start the porting And Conrice too.
Thanks for the info I will check it out when I get the chance. The head is at the machine shop being cleaned, they are going to ream the guides as well. I will be cleaning and reinstalling all of the other parts back on the head. I don't think I will be doing any porting at this time. The header will also be going out for cleaning as well to make sure the inside is not all gunked up like the exhaust ports were. The inside that I can see from the header matches the inside of the exhaust port and I will not let it go back on the bike like that.

I also noticed that this bike is missing a lot of misc. parts as well. I went through the entire partzilla catalog for each individual piece and set up a wishlist of all of the misc. parts and that is another $150 that I was not expecting to spend. The previous owner did not take care of this bike since he owned it and with only 10,000 miles it amazes me the condition it is in. But she is lucky to have me and I am giving her the love she needs.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 09:15 AM
  #137  
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What are all of the parts that are missing?



But I totally hear you on previous owners. I bought a 600rr a month or two ago, and it amazes me what this asshat did to it before me. So far, I've had to re-tap 3 bolt holes. One bolt for the the subframe mount, one engine mount, and where the tank mounts! Not to mention, it was jerry-rigged to hell. So many of the the other bolts were held on by these different sized bolts - which I don't really have a problem with - except when you use big flimsy washers and plain steel bolts that rust... The wiring is barely thrown together, and the guy didn't understand how wheel spacers, and rear caliper brackets or rear calipers worked...

Don't worry, when it's done, your bike will be great. So will mine. It's worth it. There's a lot of pride that goes into it too. There aren't too many people that are doing what you, Mika, and I are doing.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2013 | 09:27 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by Conrice
What are all of the parts that are missing?



But I totally hear you on previous owners. I bought a 600rr a month or two ago, and it amazes me what this asshat did to it before me. So far, I've had to re-tap 3 bolt holes. One bolt for the the subframe mount, one engine mount, and where the tank mounts! Not to mention, it was jerry-rigged to hell. So many of the the other bolts were held on by these different sized bolts - which I don't really have a problem with - except when you use big flimsy washers and plain steel bolts that rust... The wiring is barely thrown together, and the guy didn't understand how wheel spacers, and rear caliper brackets or rear calipers worked...

Don't worry, when it's done, your bike will be great. So will mine. It's worth it. There's a lot of pride that goes into it too. There aren't too many people that are doing what you, Mika, and I are doing.
All of the mats under the fuel tank, rubbers and cushions on fuel tank, air and overflow hoses on fuel tank, seals for the air cleaner along with the bolts for the funnels and screws for the top lid, strap for the battery, and some other misc. things that I can not think of right now. Yeah it becomes a passion and you want the bike right not wrong. Keep up the good work and the bikes will appreciate us for it.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 02:28 PM
  #139  
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I believe my initial concerns about my bike are true. I had initially thought that the bike was either salvaged with a new frame and cluster and crappy Chinese fairings, a track bike, or stolen. I really do believe it is one of the three and I am leaning more towards my first thought.

With the engine being in the shape it is in there has to be more than 10,000 miles on it. The Chinese fairings that were poorly put on the bike are another concern (what happened to the OEM fairings in 10,000 miles) and the bike still has a clear tittle. Is there anyway to check the frame vin and see if it matches the engine vin. The vin on the frame match both the sticker and the neck. I just want to get more info on my bike and find out what is going on here.

I took apart the exhaust today and the d&d pipe is completely gutted and I started to think maybe it was a track bike or just a stupid owner, that is why I am now here. The bike is supposedly a 1 owner bike, but I need more info and to see if the vin numbers match up. I mainly want to make sure the bike is not stolen, although the "owner" would not want it back in the condition it is currently in (in many pieces in my garage.) If there is a way to get the info any help would be great.
 

Last edited by msebastianCBR; Nov 10, 2013 at 02:34 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 04:13 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by msebastianCBR

With the engine being in the shape it is in there has to be more than 10,000 miles on it.
Not necessarily. I've pulled apart 3 motors from 954's - they've all looked similar. The only area that yours looks really bad is the lack of carbon on the piston domes. The condition they look to be in makes me think the bike was run extremely hot. There looks like to be some deformation there by the dimples where the valves fit.

Originally Posted by msebastianCBR
The Chinese fairings that were poorly put on the bike are another concern (what happened to the OEM fairings in 10,000 miles) and the bike still has a clear tittle.
That, in no way, would make me think the bike was stolen. A little off is enough to warrant new fairings. I've used china fairings, and my bike was not stolen by any means, the OEM fairings were in good shape too. I changed the fairings because I wanted a different look. Look at what it costs to change the look. It'll cost $500 for the fairings, and then you'll have to paint the tank ($300 isn depending on the shop) or you'll have to buy one off of ebay to match the fairings which can cost over $350. A guy who has stolen a motorcycle doesn't have the incentive to do that.

Originally Posted by msebastianCBR
Is there anyway to check the frame vin and see if it matches the engine vin. The vin on the frame match both the sticker and the neck. I just want to get more info on my bike and find out what is going on here.

Is there a number on the engine? I wasn't aware of one, but the 600rr does indeed have a number on the bottom of the engine. I'm not sure there is a way to check. But one little lay down is enough for someone to replace the fairings - that would NOT concern me. While someone could frame swap the bike out with a clean title, it wouldn't be likely.


        I haven't ever seen a database for engine numbers and a way to match them to your frame. However, I do think that you could probably track it because police do keep some of that info in case they ever run into stolen parts. But it would only be through a police report if it was stolen that I would know of. And then you're in possession of stolen property, which wouldn't be good for you.

        Originally Posted by msebastianCBR
        I took apart the exhaust today and the d&d pipe is completely gutted and I started to think maybe it was a track bike or just a stupid owner, that is why I am now here. The bike is supposedly a 1 owner bike, but I need more info and to see if the vin numbers match up. I mainly want to make sure the bike is not stolen, although the "owner" would not want it back in the condition it is currently in (in many pieces in my garage.) If there is a way to get the info any help would be great.
        Most of the information is done through the VIN on the frame in the USA. I'm not sure there is a way to match your VIN and engine numbers - and even if there was, it wouldn't mean it's necessarily stolen. I've bought engines, I've sold engines. If they had numbers that were traceable, they would not match their frames now, but the ones I've bought have come from bikes that are not stolen and the ones I've sold are obviously not stolen. A gutted exhaust doesn't really mean anything as far as what the bike's purpose was (stolen, tracked, salvaged, etc.). The guy might have just tried to modify it for sound or he could have bought it second hand with that done to it.

        You have a bad apple of a motor. The important thing is to fix it and get your bike up to your standards. If it makes you more comfortable, check the VIN, you could carfax it or check it through the national insurance fraud database. Google for it and it should pop up.
         
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