I got this bike three years back been fine till that battery blown on my way home it had steam coming from it but my bike had and has inter grated taillights and the bottle of bike wires for the servo are cut and there some thing added to the bike but the only thing I can put back is the rectifier cuz the one had burnt marks on it I show u in the pics but I take these pics of the one called the servo buddy u think that could blow the fuse? And the dude I got this from is the worst wiring I seen in my life




and only thing I could put back on is the kill switch and the other rectifier and I put in a new starter solenoid didn’t help anything but ok I disconnected the computer and the kill switch was on and tuned key on with new fuse didn’t blow plugged the computer back in didn’t blow then I dipoles the kill switch to off then back on and it blew the fuse and I send a pic of the crap job they did to the taillights but somehow they still worked before the battery blew but now I got a new stator and the old ones trashed but it had wires burnt up and sticking out of it so surprised it worked these next pics are from the old stator wires



and more and more I get into the bike **** bolts missin like the only three bolts in the stator case should be four


and only thing I can put back are thos and the kill switch
and when I hit my back breaks the taillights do a triple flash idk wher the flasher part is unless it’s in all that wiring in the taillight area but it’s all just cut wires and u think i should cut the taillights to disconnect cuz dude I got it from didn’t use any clip-ins and there no bulbs in this taillights it’s a led computer looking board inside the tail

lights

 

Danny will know more, but if we assume the computer is good, then when you turn the kill switch on, that energizes the coil packs, the fuel pump, and the bank angle sensor - I *think* everything else is energized just by turning the ignition on.

So unplug those things and see if the fuse blows still.

Personally, I'd pull all the fuses from the bike except the main one, and see if it still blows, then I'd replace them one by one in the hope that would narrow down which circuit is shorting to ground. There is likely a more refined troubleshooting process though.

 

That's actually a very effective way to troubleshoot. Most of what troubleshooting actually is, is eliminating what the issue isn't. I was an electronics technician for a long time and what you are describing is referred to as organizational-level troubleshooting. You are segregating the various sub-systems of the overall system until the problem area is isolated. Nothing wrong with that at all especially when you aren't super familiar with how it all works.

 

You've got really screwed up wiring on this bike!!! My suggestion is to buy brand-new factory OEM wiring-harness from authorised Honda dealer. Remove existing harness and install new one. ANY aftermarket crap that doesn't plug directly into harness, remove and toss. This is only way you can be 100% sure harness is working properly.

If you want to try and fix existing harness, there's many steps that needs to be done.

First, remove ALL aftermarket wiring from harness to restore it back to 100% factory OEM condition. Unwrap ALL tape hiding hacking and molestation:



For all those dangling segments of wiring that's not connected to anything, trim them off as close to factory wiring as possible. Then verify there's no damage to factory wiring at that spot. Re-cover with better electrical tape. Repeat for every section that has been hacked and damaged. We want to restore harness back to 100% factory OEM condition like when it left factory.

Trace where that blk/red ground wire that's clamped under bolt goes.

Next, since that 20a FI fuse powers entire EFI system we need to test and measure every single wire in EFI circuit to verify it's good and not shorted. Since you're not Superman and can't see electrons flowing inside wires, there's absolutely zero way any human can just look at wires and determine their ability to conduct or not conduct electricity. Luckily, we have instruments that can. This is 5-minute fix with multimeter... or less in many cases...



Get yourself a multimeter. https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-63759.html
Coupons here: http://www.hfqpdb.com/browse
Learn to use multimeter to measure resistance and voltage: https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials...multimeter/all

Next, we'll troubleshoot why 20a FI fuse is blowing by systematically measuring entire EFI circuitry:



PREPARE FOR METER READINGS
1. pull headlight fuse and connect trickle-charger so we don't kill battery
2. pull 20a FI fuse, no need to blow 10,000 of these things without getting any helpful data or results
3. set multimeter to lowest resistance range, 200-ohms
4. clamp blk probe to -neg terminal of battery
5. touch red probe to outlet terminal/socket of fuse-holder
6. key ON, kill=RUN
7. what resistance reading do you get on meter? Low-value indicates short to ground of power-wire.

DISCONNECT END-COMPONENTS FROM EFI CIRCUIT
Systematically disconnect EFI components starting from furthest end-point, while monitoring meter's reading. IF meter changes to OL - open loop or 1, we know that move recent removed part was causing short. Not likely, 99.99% of time, all parts are perfectly fine. But this is 1st stage in troubleshooting, so we can get to next.

8. Disconnect servo-buddy, does meter reading change?
9. disconnect ECU, does meter reading change?
10.. disconnect purge-control solenoid valve
11. disconnect O2-sensor
12. disconnect exhaust-air injection solenoid valve
13. disconnect each ignition-coil
14. disconnect ignition-coil sub-harness
15. disconnect each injector
16. disconnect injector sub-harness
17. disconnect fuel-pump
18. disconnect fuel-pump relay
19. disconnect engine-stop relay

After all these components have been disconnected, and meter-reading still shows low-ohms, short-circuit, we’ll measure each wiring-segment for shorts. Since some segments are connected in parallel, no way to measure individually, so we’ll manually trace.

19. measure resistance end-to-end of red/wht wire between fuse-outlet terminal to engine-stop relay socket input

20. Unwrap and trace EFI main-power blk/wht (purple on diagram), from engine-stop relay socket output to ECU connector. Look for melted insulation with exposed conductor inside. Follow each (T or Y splits) of wire, should have ONLY following connections:
brn input to fuel-cut relay
blk/wht input to fuel-cut relay
blk/wht power to injector sub-harness
blk/wht power to exhaust air injection solenoid valve
blk/wht power to O2-sensor
blk/wht power to ignition-coil sub-harness connector
blk/wht power to purge control solenoid valve

At some point when inspecting entire length of all these wires, you’ll find one of 2 things:
melted/frayed wire touching frame or other wires
unauthorised connection of blk/wht power wire to some other wire that it’s not supposed to be connected to

Disconnect this unauthorised connection, repair and tape over factory harness wire and FI fuse will stop blowing and bike will run!

 

hey thanks guys but I’m just a beginner I’m tryin to figure it out I appreciate it I prolly have to take it to a shop cuz I only got two days to work on the bike cuz work and kid and I’m not sure how to get readings on the meter I got I been watching YouTube to try to learn I live in Ohio around Chillicothe and Columbus if anyone on here knows of a good Mechanic that I can go to id appreciate it

 

Good luck!