There's more than one wiring problem.

You're not Superman and can't see electrons flowing in wires. Need to use instruments that will extend your senses.


Go back up to post #4 and do actual measurements and post numbers you measured. This will pinpoint exact circuits that has short.

Then we trace wires and components of that particular circuit and measure them to find short.

You will NOT be able to fix this without making measurements with multimeter. This is 5-minute fix with multimeter, or less. If not, then take it to shop who knows how to use multimeter to make measurements.

Also post photos of your wire-replacement repair. And replace that fuse with smaller one. Melting wires is sign fuse is letting through way too much power before blowing.

 

clock- ol - ol....fan-ol-ol....ign- ol-101.2...ind. meter.tail-ol-.6..... turn stop pass- ol-ol.....hlight-ol-ol...0l-0l can't take pic as of now got tank back on but I took pins out of connectors and put a complete new wire from pin to pin so it's just like it came from honda

 

Might be related to blowing fuses....

How did you deal with junctions on blk/wht wire? On way from engine-stop relay, it splits off to fuel-pump relay, purge-control valve, ignition-coils, and pair control valve before reading ECU connector. If you ran new wire directly from engine-stop relay to ECU connector, you've cut off your pump relay, purge-control valve, ignition-coils and pair control valve.

Ok, let's trace this 20amp circuit step-by-step

1. pull 20-amp fuse
2. measure resistance between fuse's output leg (red/wht wire) and chassis-ground. Ohms = ???
3. pull engine-stop relay
4. measure resistance between relay's input leg (red/wht wire) and chassis-ground. Ohms = ???
5. measure resistance between relay's output leg (blk/wht wire) and chassis-ground. Ohms = ???

Is your BAS bypassed? Or working properly?

 

At this point, since you don't want to measure and fix in 5-minutes, is to get brand-new, factory OEM harness from authorised Honda dealer to replace harness on bike. Can't get used fleabay harness because it too will need to be measured end-to-end of every wire to verify it's operational before using. For that effort, you might as well measure existing harness and fix it in 5-minutes.

 

I have measured everything that you said to measure in the message above are all the measurements.
And I've called multiple Honda dealership and all the CBR 929 and 954 have been discontinued. And I ran the new wire exactly how it was ran before it started acting up I simply replaced the wire from pin to pin. And that was from the engine cut relay it actually has two bl/wht wires that come out of relay on the same pin one went to fuel pump relay and all the other things that it's supposed to go to and the other to the pgm-fi. The bas is bypass correctly with a nasa slice, solder, and heat shrink. And side stand switch is bypass the same. And all that was done after the issue that I'm having. Everything else is stock wiring it doesn't look like anything was touched other than what I have done since all this started happening. I've checked all grounds front and rear I've cleaned and done everything I can including testing the relays off the bike with a 12v power source. Everything checked out. And you keep saying it's a five min job. If you can do all of this in five mins I want you as my mechanic and electrical guru!! Lol because it takes ten mins just to get tank and seat off the bike! Lol

 

Well, we're getting closer... Melted blk/wht wire is just symptom or victim of real problem. Do these measurements and we'll be homing in on specific fault on 20a circuit.

 

Also which wires do you have connected to bypass BAS? What about 3rd wire?

 

Got the two outside wires connected and heat shrink with middle white wire cut and heat shrinked
I'm getting ready to go do some more measuring just got brand new multimeter today my el cheapo took crap on me.

 

Found out that I don't have a short to ground. When I put a test light on positive and complete the circuit where the fuse goes there is not light so that means that there is no short to ground right. But fuse keeps blowing.

 

Need to ground test-light to output leg of fuse holder. Sooner you do these tests and gather numbers, sooner we'll get this fixed: