When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Are you sure you got the plugs and screw reinserted in the vacuum ports after syncing?
i did, hehe wish it was that easy. I left the test plugs in and capped the vacuum lines so it’s easier to sync next time. When the bike ran I removed a cap to see what it would sound like and it’s a pretty noticeable difference.
Honestly I would put the sync Guatemalan on it again. It wouldn’t solve your tach issue but it would be worth a 2nd look.
Thanks! I’m going to give that a try and if it’s still giving me problems I’m going to call it quits and dive into doing the valve adjustments and taking all the sensors off and cleaning main circuit board connections etc and ordering an oem R/R. Might as well take the carbs completely apart and dipping each one while I’m at! If all of this doesn’t fix my issues, I’m going to part ways with it!
Just popped the valve cover off to see what kind of clearances I’m getting and the cylinder 1 intake valve couldn’t go higher than .03mm. This is pretty far out of spec! I have some work to do. Thanks for the help guys. I’ll update probably in a couple weeks with the hopes of this super long thread will help somebody else with multiple issues.
Visually, the butterflies in the throat seem to be open different amounts. That could be just an illusion, but doing a balance is a good idea. Keep in mind that opening the throttle while starting does not help. It also reduces the effectiveness of the enrichment circuits (choke). If the engine is cold, then using the choke lever is all you should need if everything is working properly in the carburetors. Maybe even consider checking valve clearances since the engine is pretty close to the time, and you've got it this far apart anyway.
if only I listened to you a month ago about checking the clearance haha you live and learn!
Honestly I would put the sync Guatemalan on it again. It wouldn’t solve your tach issue but it would be worth a 2nd look.
I’d like to point out that the clymers manual I have states the #2 is the base while the manual I got from this forum states #3 is the base carb. I thought that was weird when trying to sync to #2 lol and the fact that their was only 1 screw for 3 and 4 😂
So I re-synced the carbs, now using #3 as the baseline and it was much easier. Bike was running great. After replacing the stator I had equal volts across the 3 leads as opposed to almost 2 volts difference with the old one. Replaced rectifier again and went over the carbs once more for good luck. We’ll I’m an idiot and put the 140 jet on #1 instead of #2. Rode the bike to work and it was a blast. I ended up selling the bike and made a nice profit. So I used the profit and bought a 2000 600 F4 that ran last year and is a no start. On to the next project!! Just removed seat and rear fairing due to missing screws. Thanks for the help again guys! You’ll probably see me in the F4 section next 😅
