Art, email sent. Interested in your coils and wiring loom.

 

Ok, new question about connecting your new COP loom to the existing pigtail connectors from the bike harness. Is it critical which wire from the 1/4 series plug loop or the 2/3 plug loop you connect to the Blu/Y or Y/Blu from the bike's harness? The way I understand a coil's operation, the primary windings are energized when you turn the key on and complete the circuit. The coils fire their high voltage from the secondary windings, through the plug center electrode to ground (the head) when the pulse generator opens the primary circuit connection. Since the coils are wired in series as pairs, does it matter which wire from the 1/4 plug circuit look I hook up to the hot Blu/Y as long as the other wire from the 1/4 circuit I hook up to paired Bl/Wht for ground?

 

If you go to page 12 of this thread you will find a link to a "How to" by Seb. this includes a full colour diagram which should clarify all you need.

Stick coils work real good..

 

I found what I was looking for! I missed the info about the coil plugs wire colors indicating + or neg (b&w wire is neg on each coil plug). That did it. Got the harness plugged in correctly to the bike's coil wires, and it runs great. Zip-tied the loom connector to the frame to keep it from bouncing around. Bike seems to start up in about .5 sec now and reaches a smooth idle about 30 sec of choke. Rode to work this morning and no issues. Thanks all.

 

Has anyone checked the voltage output of their regulators after doing this mod? I did the swap (love it by the way) and then later on, switched to a new regulator from Rick's motorsport. There was such a difference that I put the meter on it, and it was high 14's at idle, up to and above 16V at revs. I contacted them to let them know, and immediately switched back to my old stock reg/rec. Checked it again and although it didn't go as high as the new one, it still holds steady at 15.3 or so at 3000 rpm. Any thoughts?

 

Ok, I decided to do this mod with a great deal of hastiness. By not taking the time to pull the CBR out of its corrall and measure anything, I just went on memory 😁. Well I ended up with more wire than needed. At least that's what I thought, but somehow I stuck with it. (Didn't want to resolder / lesson learned)

I used the Trans Dapt PCV grommets (that was a great tip). Ideal solution to me. I could not bring myself to cut up a good set of plug wires.

Others have mentioned better startups with this mod. I can't speak to that yet because the CBR has always fired well. Do to a nerve problem in my right hand, I haven't actually ridden it yet. But it does sound different. Hoping for the changes I've read about.

Wow! wish under tank view was as clean and uncluttered as Sebastianbears! But mine's is an 87 California smog model with a lot of plumbing under the tank. You can see some of it in the photo.
Thanks for all the contributions to this topic and mod.

 

^ looks good!

 

Hey thanks. Here's a photo prior to install.

The harness, and one coil with PCV grommet attached. I found the grommets for $1.95 each. But shipping was $10.00. Price was worth the great fit.

 

Richard, I'm having a similar issue with overcharging. My bike runs up to 15.8v at 3k rpms. I replaced the stick coils with the stock coils, but the issue was the same. I have an Electrosport RR23 model R/R in my bike after the stock unit stopped charging. I thought the new R/R had gone bad, so I mailed it to Electrosport this week for testing and possible replacement. It arrived and they tested it for 4 hours and it passed perfect.

So Kyle, their VP of sales, walked me through a few tests on my bike. He asked me to test battery voltage, and then test voltage to the black wire in the R/R and battery ground. The voltages should both be the same (battery voltage). The issue is my AGM batt tested at 13.00 volts, but the black keyed voltage sensing wire tested 11.7v. Kyle told me the black wire is the keyed voltage the R/R monitors and uses to add 1.2~ 1.8 volts to until it reaches 14.8 volts peak charging rate. Then the R/R dumps remaining voltage to ground as heat. Since my keyed black wire is only showing 11.7v, the R/R is pushing 15.8v to my battery and overcharging (and boiling water out). My next step is to get the R/R back from Kyle, and test the keyed power circuit to the R/R. I've traced it back and it goes to the block connector at the ignition switch, then back to the fuse block at slot E (Ignition Starter accessories).

I think I have a corroded connection leading to high resistance and voltage drop in there. Kyle mentioned if I didn't want to mess with wiring tracing and checking, to run a new wire from the fused side of the keyed voltage to the same black wire terminal slot on the R/R connector. The goal being to have actual battery voltage present at the R/R for correct charging calcs.

Hope this helps.

 

My experience after doing this mod follows:
All seemed well when running prior to riding. While riding on the freeway everything's still great. But in stop and go or slowerer traffic and hills, it ran hotter than normal and would stall when stopped with the fan running. Restart, no problem.

Bumping RPM's up 1-200 from stock setting (1000 +/- 100) eliminates the stalling. But increase in temp still remains.

Has anyone had this happen after the stick coil mod?