Thank god , another bit of good old common sense and some of the facts that are all too obvious and well known... (to some of us)
Thanks Martin



And I though no one else was reading this lol

 

Ow no yu don't!! Jules...
you go back and read the whole 6 pages lol

think yu can get out of this so easily do yu ?? no way ...



SD has me nearly convinced and .... I am also going to church on Sunday

 

Ok, since we are talking chains, here is the scoop, again. There are TWO measurements of chain wear. I wrote this in another thread, but SD2007 only reads what is good for his view.
The FIRST measurement. Chain WEAR is measured while the chain is on the rear sprocket. If you can lift the chain half way up the tooth height, the chain must be replaced. A new chain will fit tight as a drum on a new sprocket. That is why you replace the two together, unless the sprocket shows no visible wear. So, SD2007, grab the chain at the center of the arc that the chain lays on the rear sprocket. Lift the chain with your thumb and forefinger. If it comes off the sprocket and is about half way up the tooth, replace it. That is HOW you measure chain WEAR.
The SECOND measurement. Chain SLACK is measured by chain DEFLECTION between the counter sprocket (that is the front sprocket SD2007) and the rear sprocket. Books and manufacturers differ on how to measure chain SLACK and at what point the bike should be sitting for that measurement.
WHY? It is called swing arm ARC travel. The swing arm arc travel is not concentric in relationship to the front counter sprocket (too much for you to understand Spunky D.ck2007 ?). In order for the rear sprocket to swing in an arc that would be concentric to the counter sprocket, the counter sprocket would have to be mounted on the swing arm pivot point or the swing arm would have to be mounted on the counter sprocket shaft (getting it yet, Spunky?). So, since manufacturers know most peeps don't take the time to understand physics, they just tell you to put X amount of deflection in the chain while the bike is sitting at X position. SLACK adjustment is all they are worried about for the lay person to understand. YOUR book (a Kawi book at that) only tells you how to ADJUST for chain DEFLECTION, not to identify chain wear. Your book will also tell you to use a "CHAIN" lube on your chain and not watered down Fox Terrier **** for a chain lube! So, if you, Spunky, follow the rule of chain deflection adjustment like your mommy and the good Kawi book tells you to do, then you might as well never further your knowledge and DO what your good book says, "Use chain lube." Otherwise, move next door to someone who owns a Fox Terrier and train it to **** on your chain!
Chains can be lubed with a light oil, BUT then you must use a chain WAX to hold the lubricating properties onto the chain. Wax sticks like desert snot - Spunky....
P.S. See you in Church Brother Steve! I'll bring the Jimmy Black, you bring the glasses. No, not drinking glasses, I meant close view glasses. It would be blasphemous to spill Jimmy Black because we old guys can't see the bloody drinking glass while we are pouring JB Black....

 

Lol, nice try, why don't we finish that qoute eh? From that actual link you just posted.

" You can hose off a non-O-ring chain, but be sure to use a moisture displacement product (like WD40) after the chain comes in contact with water. After your chain has been cleaned you should apply a quality chain lube. Wipe away any excess lube, so that it does not attract dirt."

So let's see, they are saying if your chain gets wet, you can CLEAN it with wd-40. After it has been CLEANED, THEN APPLY A QUALITY CHAIN LUBE. Lmao. Picking out one sentence of the link to try to prove your point is retarded, since the rest of that very sentence proves ours. You even tried to add a period to make it seem like you didn't cut the sentence in half. Too funny, that's seriously the best you could come up with after all this time to try to prove your point? Well, thanks for proving ours.

Hang.

 

Gotcha, you are wise beyond my understanding. Hey, guess what else will keep your chain from rusting, and is actually RECOMMENDED? QUALITY CHAIN LUBE. What is your major malfunction buddy? You don't perhaps work for the marketing dept of WD-40 do you? Or is it a name thing, they are WD followed by some mumbers, you are SD followed by some numbers. Hey I'm all for unity and whatnot but give it a rest. The thread was entitiled "what is the best chain lube to buy?" Even if wd-40 works at all, it doesn't work as well as actual lube, hence it doesn't do as good a job as something else, hence it's an inferior product to lube your chain with. Which is what we've been saying. It's not a GOOD chain lube.

Oh and one other thing, when something DISPLACES MOISTURE, guess what happens when it dries up or gets flung off, things dry out. How hard is that to understand. Thats why if you use it to clean, you then afterwards apply a product that won't fling off, won't dry up and actually keeps your chain in it's peak operating condition. QUALITY CHAIN LUBE.