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  #51  
Old 02-07-2011, 05:06 PM
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Rotella T and Purolator Pure One filter on mine
 
  #52  
Old 02-18-2011, 05:09 PM
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Wanted to post a couple comments. Oil subjects are really an exorcise in beating dead horses. But...

One, filters. Many filters have different cases/paint with the same exact internals.

For example.

Cut open a Mobil 1 filter, and a K&N filter, and they are sharing the same internals. They are not the only ones to do this. Many of your cheap house brand filters are actually Name brand filters. Like at O'Reilly auto, they carry Microgaurd. They are Fram filters minus some orange paint and grip. I am not saying I support Fram in any way however. But, I have cut many filters open.

Second. The best thing that a Diesel oil has going for it currently, is that is carries a wonderful old school product that protects against metal to metal contact. ZINC!
For many years, diesel vehicles on the road have not had Catalytic converters. Zinc ruins catalytic converters over time and was therfore removed from automobile oil many years ago. That's the reason everybody had their cams getting wiped in their muscle cars and didn't know what was going on in the early 80's.

I have run Rotella for many years in many very built engines. It is currently residing in my turbo car as well. I am not however running it in the F2. Even though it's lubricity is excellent, and had wet clutch protection because of the Zinc, it is known to foam up under higher rpms. Air bubbles can be compressed under pressure resulting in dropped oil pressure. I am not saying that it will foam in our engines. I actually have used it in motorcycles before. Just never one that had such a high red line. I love Rotella, and I will not say not to use it.

I would love however if someone had an oil pressure gauge where they could compare the oil pressure between the Rotella T6 and a motorcycle rated oil with more anti-foaming agents. Remember. A diesel engine does not red-line at 13,000 rpm's. Usually about 4 times less than that. So, for a better suited engine oil made for a diesel, they leave out those extra additives that take away from the slippery properties of the long carbon chains and get better performance.

I work part time (partly for the discount) at a large Auto Parts store chain. I hate it when I see people who buy into oil bottles having a sticker on them that are no better than the oil half the price at the other side of the isle. When it comes to automotive sales, including parts. Companies realize that they can really play peoples ignorance to their advantage. And it works.
 
  #53  
Old 02-18-2011, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by AZMechanic
Wanted to post a couple comments. Oil subjects are really an exorcise in beating dead horses. But...

One, filters. Many filters have different cases/paint with the same exact internals.

For example.

Cut open a Mobil 1 filter, and a K&N filter, and they are sharing the same internals. They are not the only ones to do this. Many of your cheap house brand filters are actually Name brand filters. Like at O'Reilly auto, they carry Microgaurd. They are Fram filters minus some orange paint and grip. I am not saying I support Fram in any way however. But, I have cut many filters open.

Second. The best thing that a Diesel oil has going for it currently, is that is carries a wonderful old school product that protects against metal to metal contact. ZINC!
For many years, diesel vehicles on the road have not had Catalytic converters. Zinc ruins catalytic converters over time and was therfore removed from automobile oil many years ago. That's the reason everybody had their cams getting wiped in their muscle cars and didn't know what was going on in the early 80's.

I have run Rotella for many years in many very built engines. It is currently residing in my turbo car as well. I am not however running it in the F2. Even though it's lubricity is excellent, and had wet clutch protection because of the Zinc, it is known to foam up under higher rpms. Air bubbles can be compressed under pressure resulting in dropped oil pressure. I am not saying that it will foam in our engines. I actually have used it in motorcycles before. Just never one that had such a high red line. I love Rotella, and I will not say not to use it.

I would love however if someone had an oil pressure gauge where they could compare the oil pressure between the Rotella T6 and a motorcycle rated oil with more anti-foaming agents. Remember. A diesel engine does not red-line at 13,000 rpm's. Usually about 4 times less than that. So, for a better suited engine oil made for a diesel, they leave out those extra additives that take away from the slippery properties of the long carbon chains and get better performance.

I work part time (partly for the discount) at a large Auto Parts store chain. I hate it when I see people who buy into oil bottles having a sticker on them that are no better than the oil half the price at the other side of the isle. When it comes to automotive sales, including parts. Companies realize that they can really play peoples ignorance to their advantage. And it works.
So what oil do you use in your F2?
 
  #54  
Old 02-19-2011, 05:26 AM
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Currently running what was on sale at work that I trust. Lucas motorcycle oil with a K&N filter. I am a fan of full synthetic, but more of a fan of changing oil often. I will buy what is normally on sale, between Royal Purple, Mobil, and Lucas one is usually on sale somewhere. Everything else I am driving right now has Rotella in it. I am going to install a good oil pressure gauge in the F2 and watch oil pressure, and try the Rotella in there too.
 
  #55  
Old 02-20-2011, 06:37 AM
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Rotella T6 is available at 'the store that sells walls' cheapest price you will find I'm sure.

You can also check out the Super Tech oil filter sold there. It's made by Champion and scored very high on comparison to other name brand filters.

Originally Posted by AZMechanic
I am a fan of full synthetic, but more of a fan of changing oil often.
+1 on that brother!
 

Last edited by ranchome; 02-20-2011 at 06:40 AM.
  #56  
Old 04-07-2011, 09:26 PM
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Curious... What your guys thoughts on the T(15-40) VS T6(5-40) for my 01 F4i pushing 34k miles... I read studies on the 15-40 but not the 5-40.
 
  #57  
Old 04-23-2011, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Rippin6Gears
Curious... What your guys thoughts on the T(15-40) VS T6(5-40) for my 01 F4i pushing 34k miles... I read studies on the 15-40 but not the 5-40.
The 15-40 (white bottle) is the regular oil and it's good stuff.
The 5-40 (blue bottle) is the synthetic oil and it's better stuff.

That's pretty much all there is to it. It's been tested many times in bikes and the synthetic seems to hold up better in testing with extended intervals.

I have the regular stuff (15-40) in all 3 of my bikes right now. Mostly because it was $25 for 2.5gals and I stocked up.

One, filters. Many filters have different cases/paint with the same exact internals.
Yep, this is true. The K&N/Mobil 1 were being made by HiFlo. There are a few others. Good filters from what I've read.
 
  #58  
Old 04-24-2011, 12:22 AM
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i remember this thread! i was 1st to post. I used Rotella T 5w40 full synth when I had my 1997 CBR F3...now I still use Rotella T 5w40 full synth on my 2006 Ninja 636 ZX6R.

vrooooooooooooooom
 
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