So I installed the airbox I got from eBay and bought the stool.i turned the brass screw in gently until it stopped then gave it 2 full turns and a half turn..the bike seems the be idling abit better but still popping above 1500rpm? By the way the choke is on in the video.

I made a video to show https://youtu.be/LCUMP0FghCE

 

You will need to balance the carbs, ideally with a vacuum gauge, but you can also do a basic bench balance.

 

Thanks I will try that later today..I feel like I'm missing tubes that would connect from the carbs it's weird because I see pictures of other 1000f carbs and they have connectors that mine doesn't? I just have the fat tube that connects from the airbox to the engine,the fuel line to the petcock and a skinny vaccum tube to the petcock ( the one with the red ziptie in the pic) only connected
Edit:I found out I'm missing the sub air filter tube

 

carbs are most likely clogged internally from dried petrol during its time sitting. Results in insufficient vacuum and petrol flow. Solution is completely disassembly to every last nut, bolt and individual component for scrubbing with PEA-based fuel-system cleaner and ultrasonic soaking. Drilling out jets doesn't fix anything.

Best bet at this point is to send them in for professional restoration back to factory-fresh clean. Along with replacing any parts that were modified with new OEM parts.

https://customcarbservices.com

 

Thanks,I ended up soaking the carbs over night and giving them a good scrubbing,mounted them back on and it seems to be running a pinch smoother,just to see if it'll change I changed the pilot jet from a 40 to a 50 which made the popping go away but no matter if I fully open the choke and raise the idle adjust to the max...doesn't go above 1k?

 

Still dirty and clogged carbs. Installing larger than stock jets and seeing slight improvements just shows they're still clogged. Needs complete refurb with disassembly down to every last nut, bolt and individual part. Everything scrubbed with brushes and PEA-based fuel-system cleaner (including hidden secret passages in carb-body).



Spray carb-cleaners no longer work due to removal of chlorinated compounds. Then ultrasonic soak everything. Micro soda-blast at very end to clean up. Adjust float levels with final wet-test. Replace all rubbers: fuel-rail O-rings, pilot screw O-rings, float-valves, float-bowl seals, and slide diaphragms if needed. Sync carbs and adjust idle.

Scrub-brushes from amazon:
Scrub with PEA-based fuel-system cleaner. Way, way better than useless spray carb-cleaners without any chlorinated compounds any more.

- Red Line SI-1
- Techron Concentrate Plus
- 3M Max Strength Fuel System Cleaner #08814
- Royal Purple Max Atomizer 18000
- Gumout All-in-One (may be off list soon due to reducing amounts of PEA.

Completely disassemble emulsion-tube and pilot jet. Poke out all lateral bleed holes with soft copper wire. Dried petrol turns to plastic and cannot be dissolved again. Must be mechanically scrubbed away. Also poke out all bleed-holes in carb-venturi towards float-bowl. Especially the mixture-screw hole.



Make sure needle-jet/collar is inserted with proper orientation into carb-body. Tapered hole end should face slide needle.

Bike ran perfectly fine when leaving showroom floor. It will again when carbs are restored to factory-fresh clean. Different bike, but all Keihin CV carbs are similar.












Many expert mechanics who can rebuild engine using only their teeth with both hands tied behind their backs have had to pull carbs multiple times for ever deeper cleaning until carbs were factory-fresh clean. One guy had to pull them 10x!!! That's why I recommend full-restoration job from start. Do full-on everything job.

BTW - have you measured valve-clearances? Everything towards loose end of tolerances?

Also test and measure petcock flow-rate. If carbs are this clogged, petcock is most likely as well. Can get K&L rebuild kit.


That's a lot of work and requires lots of experience and equipment. I just send my carbs and petcock to this outfit for refurb every winter when I'm overhauling my race bike. Since I run in stock class, restoring carbs to factory-fresh condition is one of "mods" that make HUGE difference compared to others running with clogged carbs causing stumbling and revving laziness.

https://customcarbservices.com

BTW - you need to get all new OEM sizes factory jets from authorised Honda dealer. All this drilling out of jets to make up for clogged carbs have really meased up your fuel-air ratio. We want everything back to bone-stock, including factory-fresh clean carbs.

 

Thanks for the help everybody and dannoxyz for the guide.i gave the carbs a good cleaning and installed brand new jets,now she's running perfect only thing i have to do is go up a size on the jets since the weather has got colder

 

Nobody bothers to replace them and they weep a little oil.
This then runs out of a little drain hole and can burn on hot components.