93 1000F overheating
#1
93 1000F overheating
Hey guys so i was riding for abit yesterday despite another issue i had with the alternator (i've been jump starting to bike haha) i noticed when idling the bike to warm up i see some sort of light grey smoke i believe coming from the engine and it tends to overheat alot (i can feel the heat on my legs when im on it) im suspecting some sort of blown head gasket..Now i dont know any history from this bike as i bought it used and i'm the 3rd owner.But would something like BlueDevil gasket sealer work if it is a blown gasket? i have no experience on getting into the engine and i've watched a video of some guy doing it...looks like a pain in the *** haha
By the way the bike has 27,000 miles
By the way the bike has 27,000 miles
#2
Light grey is burning oil. Burning coolant from burnt headgasket is white.
No, sealants won't work. Headgasket is firm metal-on-metal interface. If it's blown, replace with new headgasket and make sure to torque in proper sequence.
Do compression-test to determine if you do have blown headgasket
Most importantly, blown headgasket is just symptoms of a problem, but not the problem itself. Such as lean mixtures from clogged carbs, too much ignition-advance, too low octane fuel, etc. Find out what caused blown headgasket and fix it. Otherwise you'll blow new headgasket just was easily as 1st time.
No, sealants won't work. Headgasket is firm metal-on-metal interface. If it's blown, replace with new headgasket and make sure to torque in proper sequence.
Do compression-test to determine if you do have blown headgasket
Most importantly, blown headgasket is just symptoms of a problem, but not the problem itself. Such as lean mixtures from clogged carbs, too much ignition-advance, too low octane fuel, etc. Find out what caused blown headgasket and fix it. Otherwise you'll blow new headgasket just was easily as 1st time.
#3
The 1000F runs hot anyway.
If it is burning oil, my first bet would be the rocker cover seals around the studs that hold it down. Nobody bothers to replace them and they weep a little oil.
This then runs out of a little drain hole and can burn on hot components. Take off the side plastics and look to find the drain hole, if it's got oil around it, that's
probably your issue.
If it is burning oil, my first bet would be the rocker cover seals around the studs that hold it down. Nobody bothers to replace them and they weep a little oil.
This then runs out of a little drain hole and can burn on hot components. Take off the side plastics and look to find the drain hole, if it's got oil around it, that's
probably your issue.
#4
thanks guys i appreciate the help,i ended up finding out it was leftover coolant being burnt on the header pipes so after a couple of rides it went away
this is a bike i bought used so i dont know anything about it's history.It has NO airbox,yoshimura R&D exhaust with 4 in 1 exhaust pipes,keihin cv carbs
I had another concern about the bike popping and cracking durring idle especially at any rpm..It wont even rev past 6k at WOT on the highway.So i figured it's lean and needs a rejetting..(stock main jets on it where 115 so i drilled out all 4 main jets to 120) and i added 3 shims to the needle.now it goes up to 7k on WOT but still bogs and sputters,i even put 93 octane gas,made sure the fuel filter inside the gas tank was clean and still the issue continues it's just a pinch better
Now i read something about a air/fuel mix screw hidden under the carbs that would maybe help it? any advice?
this is a bike i bought used so i dont know anything about it's history.It has NO airbox,yoshimura R&D exhaust with 4 in 1 exhaust pipes,keihin cv carbs
I had another concern about the bike popping and cracking durring idle especially at any rpm..It wont even rev past 6k at WOT on the highway.So i figured it's lean and needs a rejetting..(stock main jets on it where 115 so i drilled out all 4 main jets to 120) and i added 3 shims to the needle.now it goes up to 7k on WOT but still bogs and sputters,i even put 93 octane gas,made sure the fuel filter inside the gas tank was clean and still the issue continues it's just a pinch better
Now i read something about a air/fuel mix screw hidden under the carbs that would maybe help it? any advice?
Last edited by KnightRider212; 09-02-2022 at 12:14 PM.
#6
Yes, pod filters causes all sorts of problems: stumbling in mid-range, engine shuts off during cross-winds, increased wear. No way to tune it out because it's not a fueling issue, but air-flow turbulence. Airbox is designed to smooth out airflow (laminar flow) and increase velocity. Restore to factory OEM condition with airbox and bike will run like brand-new off showroom floor!
#7
I ment there's no air box at all when I bought it.
Thanks I had no idea it would be the air box,I'll be sure not to use a pod niether...i'm checking ebay for one. But they look abit beatup Is
Is there anything I can do in the meantime to remedy it till I can get an air box? Somebody mentioned this hidden fuel mix screw on the carb,behind this brass colored welch... but I'm not sure as this is my first old bike.
Yes, pod filters causes all sorts of problems: stumbling in mid-range, engine shuts off during cross-winds, increased wear. No way to tune it out because it's not a fueling issue, but air-flow turbulence. Airbox is designed to smooth out airflow (laminar flow) and increase velocity. Restore to factory OEM condition with airbox and bike will run like brand-new off showroom floor!
Is there anything I can do in the meantime to remedy it till I can get an air box? Somebody mentioned this hidden fuel mix screw on the carb,behind this brass colored welch... but I'm not sure as this is my first old bike.
#8
That brass screw you're asking about is strictly for the idle-air mixture. It has no impact when you start to twist the throttle. While you're searching for your airbox, and based on the appearance of your carburetors and that they're off the bike, take the time to completely disassemble them and do a proper cleaning. That will go a long way towards getting the bike to run right when you put it all back together.
#9
thanks i'm cleaning the carb as i'm replying with some carb cleaner.i noticed a Rpm drop durring the idle as i fired her up last night for some strange reason no matter how much i turn the idle adjustment cable the rpms dont seem to raise above 1200rpm? i'm confused it started doing this out of sowhere.
i didnt touch the brass screw on the carb but is there a special tool it'd need for it or something i can do about this?
i didnt touch the brass screw on the carb but is there a special tool it'd need for it or something i can do about this?