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1000rr Clutch Slip

  #21  
Old 12-26-2018, 07:35 PM
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I took the bike for a ride today without the clutch handle or hydraulics hooked up. Bike still slipped under any load. remove the bolts from the slave cylinder to loosen any tension on the clutch push rod and took it for a ride. Clutch did not slip at all.

So what would be correct protocol? Should I modify the clutch push-rod or replace slave cylinder?

I took apart the slave cylinder several times and the piston itself will seat in that slave housing so I wouldn't think the slave is at fault.

I feel that if the service manual doesn't say to shorten the rod then something else must be out of whack. Thank you for any suggestions!
 

Last edited by CBR-John; 12-27-2018 at 09:38 AM.
  #22  
Old 01-08-2019, 07:35 AM
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I ordered a used clutch push rod to compare with the new one. It is about 3mm or .120" shorter than the new. Is it possible you're supposed to file these down to fit each bike? If so, does a measurement exist that can be used?
 
  #23  
Old 01-12-2019, 06:06 PM
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the rods 'don't file down' new or used, length stays the same, be sure new is proper rod.
at idle in neutral no clutch.. can you hear clutch chatter that goes away with slightest lever touch?
when you installed the shorter used one how did clutch run?
when disengaged the clutch and all worked fine.. how did you 'launch' the bike into 1st?
when you installed the slave after servicing it did you have to force it into position or did it gently bolt up not under pressure?
slave mounted.. can you twist the rod in place? if so.. then after riding can it still turn in place or is it now under pressure because slave sticks?
do you have too much fluid in master at start?
does now master seem lower than before ride? and 10m later back to set level? did you thoroughly clean master and check flow? can get new generic anodized master for $10 on eBay.

assuming your lines are not fulla crap.. hydraulic clutches are easier than mechanical. 3 items,/2systems clutch basket, (slave, master.) you tested basket by disconnecting hydraulic side. leaves slave and master.. master may be clogged so fluid doesn't return instantly holding pressure, as engaging is not an issue. and slaves get worn and hang up so rod doesn't release. a slight diff in rod length should be fine unless slave is bottomed out installing it putting a preload on the rod engaging clutch on installation. cant twist rod and no clutch chatter at idol. (listen, then slightly touch lever and gone, release and back.. its not loud just odd can barely hear over engine running.. kind of a WTFs wrong with my engine sound) yet a whisper compared to a DUC dry clutch where its an unnerving sound. (my 999 drives me INSANE, bc you forget and thing engines about to grenade.. then ooh just fukn clutch.. I forgot for 1sec.) for piece of mind I never sit in neutral.
I think your new rod may be a wrong rod too long bottoming out slave(assuming plunger in slave moves freely. preloading clutch so never disengages completely making clutches slip under load.. or the return on master is nasty having bad fluid return
 
  #24  
Old 01-13-2019, 04:32 AM
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Thank you for your response. The new rod was a factory sealed part for this model year. No chatter with clutch that I hear.
I just installed the shorter rod yesterday. Im not sure Ill be able to test until march. Winter is here and the roads are slick all the time. I will update when I do test ride.
When disengaged I had my old lady help push to get up to a speed it would drop in to gear.
No forcing of the slave when installing.
Yes I could twist the rod before and after a ride.
Installed new hose and rebuilt master and slave with new internal parts. Everything moves freely and the master doesnt leak.
I fill the master to the lower level to account for clutch plate wear. The fluid level stays the same.
I do think the new rod is somehow preloading. I also wonder if Honda messed the part up or something went wrong somewhere in packaging or machining. Thanks and will update in a couple months or when the street is clear.
 
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