clutch/cluch packs
#1
clutch/cluch packs
the ppl on the 900 form arent to helpfull maybe some of you know bout these i cutch packs are almost identical and this is for my 900rrw 96 frame 93 motor. ive change my 96 canes be4 and they were fine after but read this and see if any of you guys no thanks
https://cbrforum.com/m_648736/tm.htm
https://cbrforum.com/m_648736/tm.htm
#4
RE: clutch/cluch packs
If you have a hydraulic chutch,
(1) I would be thinking that the clutch master cylinder is not fully retracting.
(2) morelikely, the slave cylinder is not fully retracting.
With the side cover off, pull the clutch lever and watch the plates. Release the lever and see what happends. That's all you can do.
Release the pressure on the slave by removing the bolts and look for change in the plates. If on change, loosen the banjo joins on the master cylinder wile looking for change.
Usually the slave pushes a rod across the inside on the engine and it pushes against the center of the clutch assembly witch in turn works agains the clutch assembly spring freeing the clutch.
If the springs are to week it will slip as Shadow1 stated and if the rod still has pressure on it due to a sticky cylinder, it will slip.
Straycat is thinking more like slimmy stuff betweem the plates.
In any case the problem is,
1. Slimmy stuff between plates
2. Week springs
3. Master cylinder sticking
4. Slave cylinder sticking
5. Thin clutch plates
6. Clutch rod to long (the only other thing it can be)
This is good info for any part of the forum, let us know how you make out.
(1) I would be thinking that the clutch master cylinder is not fully retracting.
(2) morelikely, the slave cylinder is not fully retracting.
With the side cover off, pull the clutch lever and watch the plates. Release the lever and see what happends. That's all you can do.
Release the pressure on the slave by removing the bolts and look for change in the plates. If on change, loosen the banjo joins on the master cylinder wile looking for change.
Usually the slave pushes a rod across the inside on the engine and it pushes against the center of the clutch assembly witch in turn works agains the clutch assembly spring freeing the clutch.
If the springs are to week it will slip as Shadow1 stated and if the rod still has pressure on it due to a sticky cylinder, it will slip.
Straycat is thinking more like slimmy stuff betweem the plates.
In any case the problem is,
1. Slimmy stuff between plates
2. Week springs
3. Master cylinder sticking
4. Slave cylinder sticking
5. Thin clutch plates
6. Clutch rod to long (the only other thing it can be)
This is good info for any part of the forum, let us know how you make out.
#5
RE: clutch/cluch packs
so how tight are you supposed to crank down on these bolts/springs i didnt go to tight just a snugg on em' but then i wanted to see how easy i could get them off and there really wasnt a struggle like when i first took them off. should i try and make them real tight? Or will that keep the clutch from being able to engage?
#7
RE: clutch/cluch packs
I had a 93 900RR and it had a cable type clutch, not hydraulic.
Also, when I worked at a Honda dealer back in 1994, I saw lots of guys who were dragging these things go to the Barnett clutch. They were worthless clutch kits. If you had one installed, it is most likely the problem. Go back to a Honda clutch.
Also, when I worked at a Honda dealer back in 1994, I saw lots of guys who were dragging these things go to the Barnett clutch. They were worthless clutch kits. If you had one installed, it is most likely the problem. Go back to a Honda clutch.
#8
RE: clutch/cluch packs
ORIGINAL: CBR1000fking
so how tight are you supposed to crank down on these bolts/springs i didnt go to tight just a snugg on em' but then i wanted to see how easy i could get them off and there really wasnt a struggle like when i first took them off. should i try and make them real tight? Or will that keep the clutch from being able to engage?
so how tight are you supposed to crank down on these bolts/springs i didnt go to tight just a snugg on em' but then i wanted to see how easy i could get them off and there really wasnt a struggle like when i first took them off. should i try and make them real tight? Or will that keep the clutch from being able to engage?
I've seen clutch slippage directly related to oil. If you are running any type of "extended service" type of oil I can guarantee that is your problem. Friction modifiers will kill a perfectly good clutch in no time.
The service manual will give you the torque specs for the springs, but it's like 20 ft lbs IIRC. They basically just stop at the end of the travel.
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sUshI
CBR 600RR
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09-22-2007 06:48 PM
1994, 94, cbr, cluch, clutch, difference, honda, leak, motorcycle, retracting, sold, specs, spring, springs, torque