doing it the old fashioned way works perfectly fine, just be prepared to be pulling on that lever a lot

 

yea pull it like up to and over 2000 times is about right...hahahha...

you can do it without the vacuum or the speedbleeders...just be a bit of a PITA but nothing so bad.

be prepared to spend about an hour bleeding and pumping...

you can get speedbleeders at www.speedbleeder.com

but know that the system needs to be pressurized before you use them...so if you're just bleeding then it's fine, but if you're swapping lines...the speedbleeders will work same as regular ones until you have some pressure in the system.

 

whats the best place/deal to get the stainless steel lines?

 

probably ebay...
i would recommend them for the rear as the rear brake locks up quite easily as is.

otherwise, most vendor's prices are pretty much same.

 

I bought my Galfer lines for the front, with black pads, for $109 from kneedraggers.

 

i got the set a long time ago from cyclegear for like 50 bucks i think...or was it 40...on sale anyway...

i say spring the money and get the goodridge superbike lines! PIMP!

 

Ok, I'm on vacation and finally had the time to get the bike apart and install my Galfer SS brake lines and Speedbleeders.

Thanks to everyone who had tips and tricks to share - you made this job very easy.

First, the whole front end was taken off for this install, as was the front fender.

The front brake's master cyclinder cap was taken off, and the brake lines were disconnected from the calipers. The ends of the brake lines were allowed to drain into coffe cans while the old bleeder valves were removed.

The Speedbleeders were installed easily and torqued to spec.

The factory brake line was removed and the two new SS lines were connected to the master cylinder using new banjo bolt and crush washers.

The new SS lines were connected to the calipers using new banjo bolts and crush washers.

The master cylinder reservoir was refilled with new DOT 4 fluid. I used Valvoline synthetic.

The Speedbleeders were backed off 1/2 turn, and a MityVac was used to prime the lines on each side. Make sure you keep an eye on the fluid level in the MC reservoir - it's easy to let it get too low.

Once the lines were primed, each side was individually bled using the brake handle to purge any remaining bubbles from the lines.

Once the brake handle had a firm feel to it, the front end was reassembled.

Driveway test was done, a few quick stop exercises were done in front of the house, and then the bike was road tested.

Everything works fine - I can't wait to go for a ride tomorrow!

 

would've been a fine how to, if you had pix :-)
thanks for posting this, many think that it's a very hard and risky job and while it is about the most imporant part of the bike, it's not really all that hard to do!