This weekend I was installing my new Speedbleeders on the bike. Well, I ordered the wrong ones for the front so that install has to wait until I can get the right size. On to my question . . .

I was looking at the brake fluid reservoir on the handlebar and noticed that it's awfully short on space there. So in order to remove/replace the brake lines and the lid to the reservoir is it easier to just remove the fromt plastics? I can see that you'd have a lot more room to swing a wrench if it were removed - what have you guys done when installing new brake lines?

Thanks for your help.

 

you will find that if you have the bars at full left lock, with the screen off, you should be able to fill the resivior to the proper level, well thats the way i did it on my F4i, anyone else?

peace

 

I found it best to remove the front fairing since it made it easier to route the braided line.

 

my appoligies i thought you were just replacin the resevior lid, but if its lines... yeah tke the plastics off, also save you if you spill a bit of fluid on anything.... let us know how it goes...


peace

 

Will do. I bought the Galfer braided SS lines combo with their black pads. My current pads have plenty of meat left, so I won't be changing them at this time. I've never had the front of the bike off, so I'm assuming that I basically have to remove the lower and mid fairings in order to get the front off?

Any tips on how to contain the fluid that I'm sure will leak from the master cylinder?

I bought one of those $50 vacuum bleeder kits last weekend in anticipation of having to prime the new brake lines.

Have I missed anything?

The Speedbleeders that I bought were the 8125L model. One of them fit the rear Nissin caliper. Turns out the Tokico calpiers up front need the S7100 model. I called Speedbleeders this morning first thing, and they mailed out the correct size bleeders. When I asked about having to return the ones I had, they said to just mail them back after I got the 7100's installed. No need for them to have them back before they shipped the correct size. Really great customer service.

 

I hate to have to tell you this bro but you wasted 50 bux on that vacuum bleeder kit. . . the vacuum bleeder kit will not work if you have speedbleeders. all you will is suck the check ball up and then it would seal the bleeder off. Honestly on a bike you don't really need speedbleeders since you can reach the brake lever and the bleeder screw and its a one man job anyway. as long as you are cordinated enough to be able to open and close the valve while you are pushing the lever you should be good to go.

as far as priming the lines you just pump the master a lot and let it gravity bleed for a little while (again doesn't really work all too well with speed bleeders) but as long as the master never runs completly dry you should still have enough pressure in the master to push the fluid through

 

um...i have speedbleeders...and i used it with the mity vac vacuum bleeder...it did what it was supposed to do...

is this by experience that you know it won't work? my experience tells me otherwise. you need the vacuum bleeder to prime the lines...cause speed bleeders won't work in a system that has no pressure.



the check ball getting sucked up is what opens the hole for fluid to come out.

 

i was using a pneumatic fluid extractor hooked up to an air compressor at the shop(powered mighty vac essentially) and it wasn't sucking **** out. maybe it was too much hardcore suckage but yea it totally didn't work for me. this was on my car
if it works it works then but yea that was from personal experience.

like i said on the bike the hydraulic system is so small that speed bleeders make things maybe a little easier but totally not warranted as bleeding is already a one man job

 

i think it may be that your compressor sucked it soooo hard that the spring was fully compressed and the ball stuck on the upside...gets what i mean?

that makes sense now.

 

so i want to do this to my bike also, where the site that i buy it from? and could i just use the bleeders that are on the caliper already? and just do it the good old fashion way?. and any no no's i should know of before doing it?

thanks, steve