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Stock hp? Post tune Hp?

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  #11  
Old 09-16-2013, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Mose
I do have a single print out. It doesn’t tell you much other than what I said in my original post.
you got screwed then.. It's just like the dyno run I had that made me livid.. I wanted my A/F ratios plotted along the graph. whp and tq plotted by rpm and showing the A/F. Instead I got whp and tq plotted by speed and no A/F. If you can't see the A/F ratio you have no clue how much power is possible at WOT. If it was a "tune" you best have received way more info before and after..
 
  #12  
Old 09-16-2013, 12:56 PM
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Pair should be blocked off for the dyno run if they are doing a tune, and normally the shop will do it and reconnect after. A slip on and PC3 won't affect power at all so 93hp is perfectly average.
 
  #13  
Old 09-16-2013, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Bryce Swartzwelder
The machines new made 109hp (via wikipedia) at the crank which is about 90 - 95 at the wheel max depending on who you talk to and how you figure it. Fuel and engine oil used, ambient air temp, barometer, humidity, dyno setup, tire condition (wheelspin) are some things that cause differences in dyno readings. Generally speaking, the f4i will produce about 95 at the rear wheel in good condition stock on a good day.
Thank you. That's all I needed to know
 
  #14  
Old 10-24-2013, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by DJPlayer
actually my bike w/ 21k miles (a 2001) produced virtually the same w/ a zero mapped ecu. 93.81whp and 41.73tq.

I'm running a different model ECU so.. I can't have an auto-tune (nor do I want to). Right now I'd datalogging all info and slowly tuning everything to 13.2 to 12.8 AFR at least at the upper Throttle positions. At lower positions I'm moving to around the 14.0 mark or so for fuel economy purposes.

Even running a 0 map.. WOT is damn close to 12.8 - 13.2 or so. At WOT the leanest I'll go is about 12.3 or so, the richest is about 13.4. Typically it runs leans vs. rich in almost all spots.. (at least w/ your basic bolt ons).

What you can increase though is your ridability feeling though. Why... because when you're not at WOT.. the A/F ratios are weird. For example at 10% throttle near 3k- 4500 rpms.. I'm running an A/F ratio of 16+ ??

So why the datalogging and wideband equipment.. because to tune the bike is $0. To return w/ additional mods is again $0. If I get a new bike.. I take all my stuff w/ me. Power to be gained is minimal w/o major mods. One of the most important probably being a full exhaust.

Everyone always searching for the most HP.. but seriously how many times are these people out on the track in the first place. Oh well just my two cents.. if anyone has any tips on A/F tuning please shoot them my way. A decently priced aftermarket header would be really nice too..
Honestly not trying to be a dick here but just wanted to make sure that you do know that at WOT the RICHEST (not leanest) you'll go is about 12.3 or so, the LEANEST (not richest) is about 13.4. Sounds like you know what you're doing so probably just a type-o.
 
  #15  
Old 10-25-2013, 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by romoses4
Honestly not trying to be a dick here but just wanted to make sure that you do know that at WOT the RICHEST (not leanest) you'll go is about 12.3 or so, the LEANEST (not richest) is about 13.4. Sounds like you know what you're doing so probably just a type-o.
yeah typo.. actually I've become a little annoyed by the way temperature and speed affect A/F. The sensors do a crappy job modifying A/F based on these variables. At low rpm's I'm pretty consistant in A/F.. but at WOT temperature/speed can shift A/F a full +.5/-.5 ratio off.. Maybe more.

In an area like mine summer can be dreadfully hot and humid.. this morning it was in mid 30's. WOT was throwing me number like 12.3 etc.. instead of constant 13's. oh well..
 
  #16  
Old 10-26-2013, 11:42 PM
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Mine was done on a dynojet dyno . Before was 98.5ish and after I had it tuned with the pc3 it was 99.7. Not much of a gain but it was so much smoother that it was worth it.
 
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