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Idle acting funky

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Old 11-29-2010, 08:41 PM
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Default Idle acting funky

Hey brosifs-

Up until about 6 weeks ago, my 01 would idle dead on spec at 1350-1550rpm... Lately I am idling a few hundred up to 500rpm higher than usual. I understand the choke and high idle upon cold start, but what I am noticing is the high idle at operating and hotter temps! The bike will more often than not idle at 1800-2050rpm now. I havent changed anything nor ever adjusted the idle screw and the only thing I can attribute this increase to is that the Arizona air is now cold. I mean it is night and day difference of what the bike is used to (100 degree intake temps are now at 45-50) Could it simply be that the IAT is sensing this cold dense air and bumping the idle? Thanks for your input!
 
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Old 11-30-2010, 10:46 AM
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So just as an example...Last night after a hard ride (I wanted to get the oil good and hot as its been sitting in the cold) I parked it and the coolant read 200 and the bike was idling at 2000rpm! You would think that when fully warmed the idle would be lower than the stock 1400 if anything.

This morning, after my 1 mile ride to work, the temp was only 155 and the bike was idling PERFECT dead pegged at 1500rpm? Huh?

I am still leaning towards the IAT reading these cold temps. Can someone back me up on this or tell me Im wrong?

Another thing....Its funny how the COLD season brings about new issues with the mechanics of the bike. The bike has been very hard to start in the morning. It sits outside in the cold in my parking spot but is riden everyday. Upon cold start, I will hear the pump prime and then when pushing the ingnition button it like "limps" to start...I am thinking it is the low charge from the battery due to the cold! You have to take into consideration that this bike was/is tip top mechanical wise with only 9k on it and the battery is somewhat new (10 months old?) In the regular arizona temperatures, and since the day I had purchased it, it will fire RIGHT up and feel strong as ever...day after day...then this coldness came, and the battery is having a hard time with sitting over night in it...

Any ideas?

I have a 1 yr warranty on the battery...should I simply take it back to them and get a new one? How does that work? Or will they simply hook it up and see that it is still functional and tell me to kick rocks? If its no questions asked, I'd myswel just walk in and get a new battery right?

Edit: I remember on my old LT1 and LS1 engines, when I had an issue with the idle, I would check for a vacuum leak or check the brake booster. Does the F4i have similar components that affect the idle (e.g vacuum or brake booster type components?)

The fact that it idles high when warmed makes me think it is a vacuum or pcv/sensor issue rather than a loose air box to throttle body boot or the such...My non-Cal 01 dosent have any egr crap also correct?
 

Last edited by 600F4inoober; 11-30-2010 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 11-30-2010, 03:31 PM
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The bike limping to start sounds like cold oil (thicker so harder to start) and a cold battery, I would get the abttery checked out as it might be on its way out, it might have lost a cell or be sulphated... just my 2p
 
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Old 11-30-2010, 05:18 PM
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Thanks. Ya I believe the coldness has gotten to the battery even after only a few weeks of cold! So normally what do stores do when the battery is still under warranty? Do they hook them up and check the charge and if it passes (even though its damn near on its way out) they tell you no can do on a replacement? Or do they just swap you with a new one? Given each establishment is different of course.
 
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Old 11-30-2010, 11:54 PM
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get a battery tender. great investment and only about $25. keeps it fresh and lmakes it last a lot longer
 
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 600F4inoober
Thanks. Ya I believe the coldness has gotten to the battery even after only a few weeks of cold! So normally what do stores do when the battery is still under warranty? Do they hook them up and check the charge and if it passes (even though its damn near on its way out) they tell you no can do on a replacement? Or do they just swap you with a new one? Given each establishment is different of course.

A decent store should test it under load, this will show a low cell. Not all places use these but if it is only just starting to go faulty this is the only way to show,
The Volts drop below 9.6 and the bad cell gasses first.

You could check this yourself with a digital volt meter and trying to start the bike. connect the meter and just take out the igntion fuse or disconnect the coils so it wont start and try and crank her, and look what the meter reads ,
 
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