2006 CBR600 F4I with 12220 miles on it.


Well i will start off saying I have never done this before so post some stuff up with some pointers or such. Before you start tune your Idle control to 1300+- RPMs

Tool:
HG Carb sync/throttle Sync
Philips head screwdriver
Asortment of sockets
and an Allen Wrench

Well first off you have 4 bolts holding the tank to the frame so unscrew those




After that you will have 2 Screws on the sides of the tank that will take the same size allen wrench as the fairings



After that you will be able to lift the tank off and pivot it back and tie it down to something here i used the sissy bar and the top of the tank.. Make sure you watch the hoses coming off the gas tank as some may come loose if you pull it back to far.



After that you will have 9 screws in holding the top of the air box on so use your phillips head and take all those out and dont forget to unplug that IAC Connector on the top.



Once that is off take out your filter (btw its a good time to replace it if you need to) and after that is out you will see your Velocity Stackes there and those have 3 screws each on them dont worry they are labeled by the middle screw if you mix them up. As soon as those are unscrewed you will have 3 hoses at the top of the air box you need to disconnect and 2 at the bottom simply use the metal crimps to shimy those off..



As soon as you have all those disconnected its time to disconnect those pesky ram air tubes at the top which are possibly glued in but a flat head screwdriver will pop those suckers off.



After everything is disconnected remember where they go and the bottom of the airbox will just pop off to reveal the Throttle body and your spark plugs if you need to change them BTW.



After that you will need to locate at the bottom of the TB which is towards the rear of the bike something that looks like Such. As you will need to hook your gauges up to these.. You wont have to hook them in order to your gauges but it does make it easier when tuning them in. So unplug the 4 from the sides and hook them to your hoses on your gauges



Now turn the bike on let it warm up a bit to 140-150ish and you will see the gauges jump up and hover where they are. Mine were at such.



Now since mine were in order we are looking at #1 far left to being the one we need to match the rest to.. The red ones are the sockets that you adjust to match to the green one on the left sitting on the bike.



And a Close up of those sockets to tune the cylinders green is the same color red is same as you can see #1 doesnt have one that is the one you need to get them to match to..





So adjusting those and matching them up to the first cylinder. Make sure they are really close if not dead on. I dont have any finished pictures of the gauges, but they were pretty darn close. The only problem i had is that the idle kept going up so id have to adjust the idle

 

Awesome write up, you should put it in the how-to forum

 

damn, that was a good write up. you should circle the socket in the last pic though. i dont know what im looking at =x

 

Updated

 

i actually need to do this pretty soon, and this post was a lifesaver. thanks alot man. but does the bike have any problem starting when the sensors to the air box aren't connected, and do you keep the bike running the entire time you are sync-ing the TBs?

 

Not to sound dumb, but why would there be the need to readjust the throttle bodies? do they really differentiate from each other after so long?

 

No just your FI light will be on or flash it will run fine.. On mine i noticed that it smelled a lot worse than it usually does and there was some smoke coming outta the TB when i turned it off i dont know if that was normal.

 

They come loose when you adjust your idle its adjusting the TB at idle well, if you notice you are having a rough idle this could be the problem and after i got mine in sync my bike isnt as high pitched when i go to 0 throttle after accelerating its more of a low growl now

 

FYI...
all vacuum hoses should be blocked off as if the airbox was still on. also, the IAC and MAP should be plugged in as well...doing this will allow the TBs to be sync'd without any blinking lights. once the lights come on, you only have so much time before the ECU reverts to 'limp' mode and you can no longer adjust any of the tbs to sync with #1 or anything for that matter....

ask me how i know this...muahahahhaha...

 

Nice write up, I bought and used one of those carb sync tools on my previous bike with carbs, did it once every year- ran like butter afterwards each time.
I was shocked to learn earlier this year that I would still need to perform this service on a fuel injected CBR!!
Oh well, glad I didn't sell the tool. Be super carefull storing and not coming into contact with the mercury you have to pour into and out of the carb synchronizer. I think mine is made by Motion-Pro, got it on Ebay.