Can`t remember the name but those bolts that hold the ignition are one kind of safey bolts, there is a head to tighten them which then snaps off so they can`t be reopened, seen them in some new ignition lock kits.

 

Aha, I see. I guess there is logic to it, but when the bike is 23 years old and has practically no street value, I think I'll replace them anyways, since the only one suffering from it is me if I ever want to replace this ignition unit. Thanks Mattson, you answered a question I've been wondering about for a very long time.

 

Do you have a high quality impact gun? I never had to take the flywheel off on this bike but are you 100% sure that the threads aren't reversed.

Usually nothing on these bikes sticks so bad that a gun won't get it off. The size and torque on motorcycle fasteners is so small compared to cars/trucks. I have an ingersoll and rand half inch impact gun. With 110lbs through it it gets everything done. Rusted axle hub nuts on a medium sized truck were nothing, so a little 14 or 17mm bolt on a flywheel should be cake.

You will need a valve seal installer tool as well. Motion pro sells them. The motion pro valve spring remover/installer tool is amazing too. Pricey but worth it if you plan on doing your own work. And you will want a valve lapping tool with some grinding compound. That will clean up and reseat your valves nicely. Those are cheap.

The deposits are normal with worn seals or rings. You can always do a compression test to check your rings but redoing rings is a hell of a lot more work and requires you to dismantle the entire case. Usually not worth the cost or time.

Yeah they should be different colors. The intake valve is not only bigger, and a better heat sink, its pulling in cool air and doesn't get as hot as the exhaust valve.

 

Unfortunately I don't have a tool, but I'll buy a breaker bar tomorrow. I've heard that Ingersoll and Rand makes very capable impact guns so later on I will buy one, I think.

Thanks a lot for the advice. I've ordered a valve spring compression tool but not seal installer nor valve lapping tool. Gotta check them out. And thanks for confirming the variation in colors and size, me being a newbie I really need this type of confirmation of my observations. Thumbs up, Dissevered!

 

Today I got the stubborn flywheel bolt out. How? I took your advice of course. Together with a mate, I carried the engine to an auto repair shop nearby and asked if they could help me with their air tools. A few seconds later the bolt was gone. So easy when you have the right tools, I guess.

The rest was easier. A few weeks back, I ordered a flywheel puller or at least a 20 mm copy of it. It had a few nicks to the threads when I got it but I managed to get in place and smacked it a few times with a hammer. It didn't budge. I got furious and switched to a rubber mallet and hit it even harder and whomp there it came.

I am finally where I wanted to be a long time ago: At the stage where I can split the engine. It says on the Internet that a well kept engine will start to split after a few taps with a rubber mallet. If that's the case, my engine has never received any love by the previous owner. Any advice on how to split the halves in an easy and controlled manner without having to pound in a Hulk-like rage for hours would be greatly appreciated.

 

Sawzall

I would think it's similar to opening the transmission case from my car.
Good solid whacks from a rubber mallet on the seam all the way around.
Then whacks on areas that allow you to direct force up or away from the seam, steadily going around.

But then I've never split one of these :P

 

Haha, sawzall... I was going for angle grinder but hey, whatever works...
Nah, that's what I thought. Back to hammering it is. As a Swede, I'll summon the power of Thor and beat the engine senseless. Oh, any advice on how to seal it properly when putting it back together?

 

Man this is getting hilarious to follow, almost have to go grab some popcorn... I'm a little scared to give any further advice after the clutch incident but I'm thinking a (small) slidehammer with gentle taps here and there to ease the halves apart. With one of those it is extremely easy to shear the threads from such small holes though, given that everything seems to be stupid tight I'm surprised you haven't yet managed to do that anywhere have you? Whatever you do do not wedge anythint in between no matter how tempting it would be...

 

"Are you not entertained?" Migge Maximus – motorcycle gladiator

Haha, feel free to give any advice, I won't hold it against you . No, I don't think I've sheared anything just yet so I'll stick to pounding with my rubber mallet. I try to focus all my might on the blows striking the lips with no apparent function besides aiding in separating the halves. I was thinking of using a hot air gun to get the sealing to release a bit but then again, it is probably heat resistent and won't stop gripping from a few gusts of hot air. I won't pry anything open, that's a promise and if I were to do that (it just might happen when I'm in my Hulk mode), I would use some kind of plastic wedge to avoid damaging the surfaces.

 

If you call it names, then say you don't care anymore and start to put it back together, it will likely then fall apart to spite you.