Phil, hahaha, like a Ducati. Think Ducati if you ever sell it, apparently dry clutches aren't cheap and maybe you could convince some rookie that it is supposed to be like that. When I bought my dirt bike, I was so inexperienced that I didn't even notice that the speedometer wasn't working. It was difficult enough handling the bike with that seat height...

Great tip about the o-rings. I will most definitely change them. Almost every cover gasket (and other gasket) are so old they have begun to deteriorate so in hindsight, that was a pretty good reason for pulling the motors although I didn't know it when I started.

 

40 grams (half a tube) of Autosol metal polish mixed with 500mls of kerosine. Stir it until the Autosol is mixed in well. Use a paint brush to put it on and leave it for half a hour and hit it with the garden hose. Magic. Will work its way between the dirt and road grime no probs.
Pre painting use Prepsol or I.P.A. to wipe down painting areas.

question. Will it increase the overall running temp of the bike by decreasing its ability to cool down?
I don't know

 

Great tip, Kiwi! I'll try to find Autosol here in Sweden but kerosine I know most def I can get here.

 

Autosol Sverige - Återförsäljare

 

Brilliant, Mattson. These chains have stores everywhere! Thanks!

So I went through the state of the clutch today. The friction plates were all within spec but there are some grooves from wear on the both the basket and the center. I tried to sand the sharp edges down without removing too much material and risk too much of play for the plates.


I also tried to remove the flywheel bolt of the alternator but it is stuck. I don't know how hard it is supposed to be, but like with every other bolt of this engine, it's like a giant torqued this to his own spec. I would like to have that bolt off when I get my flywheel puller so I can remove the rotor and continue splitting the engine.

 

A product I've found very useful for removing stubborn nuts or bolts where heat is not an option is a German product so you should be able to find it easy enough.

WURTH Rost off Blue Ice.

It freezes the bolt and "cracks" the corrosion around the bolt and insert thread.
Here's a vid I've found for you, few minutes long but check it out.


Cheers.

 

That stuff is actually not a problem to get a hold of in Sweden, that brand is quite common and in fact I work for a magazine where Würth is one of our bigger advertisers. I've never tried it though but I've seen it around. Never thought of using it, but now I have to try. Unfortunately for me, most of the problems with stuck bolts that I've had, except for a few chassi mounted ones, are that they are torqued way too much. There are no rust present at all so it is all in the force...

I once was in a motorcycle repair shop where I saw one of the technicians use an air tool to bolts everywhere without any consideration given to torque values specified. I was horrified. Not that I usually care that much, but if I leave my bike in a shop to get it fixed, I expect them to follow instructions and not tighten sensitive bolts with the wheel bolt remover...

 

I didn't read the 6 pages of this thread but when there is burnt oil on a spark plug there is a good chance that your valve stem seals need replaced. It is either that or a leaking valve cover gasket.

 

Thanks, Dissevered. Luckily for me I have already stocked up on a complete engine gasket kit which contains both stem seals and valve cover gasket so I figured I would replace them anyways!

 

My story seems to be one about the impossible bolts... I've been struggling for quite some time with the flywheel bolt of the alternator. It is locked so damn tight. I've tried breaker bars, impact driver, heating it... Soon I'll fall back on my "grind the thing away"-plan. It worked on the lock nut of the clutch... Anyways, I noticed that the valve seats (and the entire area) was almost completely blackened with carbon deposits, just like the pistons and the exhaust ports/"channels". I tried to get most of it away, but couldn't really remove the valves so now I've ordered a cheap valve spring compression tool from eBay. As soon as I can remove the valves, shims, guides and every other part I'll really clean the cylinder head. Are the intake valves and exhaust valves supposed to be of different colors by the way? Pic after cleaning...


Some of you might remember that I ran into some problems some years back when I tried to remove the ignition. The bolt heads of the bolts securing the ignition module to the top yoke were cut off or something, and there were no regular nuts to grab but only round nuts restricting access to the bolts. With everything in pieces, I took a better photo to show how it looks. I am going to cut them off and get them out to replace them with proper nuts this time.