Oh, and you should post an up close picture of the bores. I'd be curious to see what they look like.

One idea for getting that nut off would be to get the bike in high of a gear as possible, and then have a friend get a 1/2 in. drive rachet socket (or a breaker bar) on the countershaft sprocket nut while you hit the clutch nut with an impact driver.

I can't see how that wouldn't do it.

 

Great advice, Conrice. Unfortunately the clutch has to go before I can do anything else. And of course the alternator too which requires a Honda specialty tool. This is like a farce from hell. Anyways, I should have tried the impact driver method (forcing me to buy an impact driver of larger caliber) but I grew impatient and started grinding away on the nut with my dremel. I know, I know, probably not the best idea, but I figured that once I'm through the nut I'll be able to crack it open and remove it that way. I've tried so many ways of trying to lock the nut with the help of the countershaft, but the problem is securing the clutch basket. All I've done so far is scratching it when my method of locking it fails. It states that I would need another nut anyways, so no harm in destroying this one. The previous owners had locked it so hard that I might just have to get another shaft too since they managed to damage it. How much I'll know when I remove everything.

Pics of the bores will be supplied tomorrow. I need to know what I'm looking at so please feel free to comment. I have no idea what I'm doing right now .

 

Okay, this is what happened. I used an impact driver and gave the nut a few hard strikes that would have made Thor envy my strength. Not much happened so I decided to test my new angle grinder and cut out a few strips from some 1,25 mm steel sheet to make a makeshift tool along the lines of Mattson's suggestions. Everything felt locked in place so I placed the socket over the nut and used the same strength mentioned earlier when hey presto, two of the pins of the pressure plate decided they had had enough and broke off the plate. So the evening ended with me ordering a new pressure plate and EBC clutch removal tool. The disassembly of my engine will just have to wait for a while and in the meantime I guess I could service the forks, get my frame and swing powder coated and clean the carbs...

 

Ouch! Man I feel really bad that my tip has caused that, but we did say before not to use excessive force inside the engine. Another reason why that is, is that behind the clutch there's a bearing, and behind the bearing a fairly small shoulder to what the bearing rests against. By hitting the nut you're introducing a fairly high axial force to the clutch basket and through that the bearing that might damage it, or even crack the shoulder behind it...

That being said, makes me wonder how tight that nut actually is in there?!!! I've used the flatiron trick three times and always succeeded however on my cases the center nut hasn't been that tight. Some einstein must have shot it shut with a bolt gun on full rock'n roll... that is a prime example why there are torque specs on stuff...

Anyone that has actually changed an f2 clutch, is there by chance a left hand thread? Shouldn't be..

För fan sager jag...

 

Hehe, no worries, Mattson. I was aware of the risk but I really needed to get that one off. I am looking at the option of buying a used setup anyways so I thought it would be worth the risk. The tip was all good and the tools we made were solid so I do like it, it was just this one minor setback. I am pretty sure that nut was not torqued to spec and apart from that, it was locked so hard into the shaft that I suspect that I may need to buy a new shaft too. I guess I'll write it up as some expensive life lessons... On the other hand, when I'm done with this engine, nothing will ever scare me again...

 

Ouch, that pic made me cringe. I might have an extra basket, but it sounds like you got it covered already.

Maybe I shouldn't ask, but why are you taking your engine apart? Were you having a problem with it in some way? Or is this just curiosity?

 

Is that a cotter pin on the shaft I see?

Next time, or this time, use air tools. If a 1/2" impact gun wont get it, a 3/4" gun will. Mine puts out 1200 foot pounds and it works wonders on tight nuts and bolts!

 

Would probly recommend as the next step to lift up the lump, carry it to the nearest neighborhood repair garage and have them shoot the nut open.

 

This. Wholeheartedly, this.

Having the right tools makes all the difference in the world. The thing is, with impact wrenches, you're not putting your body weight behind a breaker bar, or a lever, and all of that constant force is what causes the issues and causes stuff to break.

In America, we have sockets called Gator Grips. You can use them to get rounded bolts out. I'm sure you have something similar in Europe. If you can find one big enough, you could use it. They're not built to be used with air tools, but I used one once when I lost my "key" socket for my through-lugnuts on my wheel spacer.
They look like:


I would bet someone used locking agent on it. The highest grade thread locker "requires" a blow torch to get nuts loose.

 

Guys, I truly appreciate your help. I was actually on the verge of doing what you suggested, Mattson, since I have an auto repair shop just around the corner but today I decided to buy a chisel and try to crack it one last time. And after some grinding with the dremel I started to chip away at the nut, carefully as I did not want to damage the shaft itself. After a while I felt the nut moving more and more each time. Not the basket as before but the nut itself. To my joy I was able to get it off and surprisingly the only damage to the shaft was the one made by previous owners when locking the lock nut to the shaft. Amazingly my grinding and chiseling did not even nick a single thread. So now I can continue my work! The new pressure plate (as I broke two of the pins on this one) and, to be sure, a clutch basket tool, is to be sent tomorrow from Partzilla.

I am taking the engine apart just of curiosity, it was running fairly well although a bit rich I suspect due to the carbon deposits. But I dream of building really cool machines one day and there is no time like the present to learn the skills needed, right? I have great plans for this beast too and I'll keep posting pictures in this thread of how the build will progress.

By the way, no cotter pin in there. But when I compared this nut to an OEM nut with the same part number I got as a spare a while back, this nut is much thicker. Pretty strange, I reckon.

I've never seen Gator Grips before but they seem really cool. When I get some air tools (which will be right after I get permission to buy and use a TIG-welder in the garage), I'll hook myself up with a few of them. Thanks again, my C(y)B(e)R amigos!

Edit: Oh, a pic too...