Not sure if it will work or not though, but hey, I have to learn how to work on engines because bikes are all I think about 24/7.

I think it's called Satin Black, the kind of black that is mostly matte but has a little bit of gloss in it. If it looks good, I might drop off the swing too.

 

I haven't been lazy, just bad at posting. So I'll start with a few pics...

Clutch back on, and I think it works decently at least. New pressure plate fitted too and the friction plates were within spec. The springs are about to be done but I think they will last this season.


The exhaust ports are dirty. Like really dirty...


Removed the valves just because I wanted to try my tool and learn how it is done. Hopefully I'll be able to put it back together... The flange of the keeper is supposed to be upwards, right...?


And yesterday it was hot, sunny and the first real day of spring so me and the guys in our club Nite Ryderz went out and tore down the city. I actually managed to, completely unexpected, do a wheelie while racing a sports car at a redlight in the city. Oh, mine is the 450 leading the pack.


Anyways, I've been working on this engine for quite some time and I'm still not sure if it will work when I fire it up but for every new thing I do, I get more and more confident and things appear more and more natural to me. I was supposed to get the frame today but it won't be finished at the powder coater until Friday. On the other hand, I have somehow misplaced the collars for the oil cooler and the shaft for the starting clutch gear, so I can't go ahead and finished everything I've started until the parts arrive later this week.

I am now working on the cleaning the head and checking the valves. I've never seen exhaust ports this dirty. Hopefully I can dissolve some of the carbon deposits. A contact at CRC Industries told me that they will bring a really good solvent that you guys have in the US to Sweden soon. I could really use that one right now... After that, I'll clean the carbs and by then the frame will be ready and everything will be put back.

When that's done, all I have to do is fit the new headlight, speedometer, solder the connections, fabricate some kind of side fairings from perforated sheet metal and the Beast will once more overtake all those lame *** bikes cruising the streets .

 

I was removing the clutch from my f3 parts motor and broke one of those dowels like you did :P
I ended up using a pry bar against the gears inside the trans to help me get the nut removed.
Sucks!

 

Hey, I feel your pain. I ordered the EBC tool but it didn't fit properly so I ended up having to sand/grind the holes to fit the dowels properly. But then it worked. I didn't dare pry against the gears, hehe.

 

The gears in this motor are less likely to be sold, where someone was wanting the clutch discs and rings now, so I took a chance :P
Luckily the nut wasn't difficult to remove.

 

Aha, I see. And you are absolutely right. Compared to the time I spent on removing the nut (in vain, after all I had to go to a shop with tools), waiting for a new part was nothing .

 

After some weeks of absence I got back into wrenching today and look what I discovered. The manual states that I should line up the T on this part with the marking on the rotor cover. Well, I got the rotor cover marking covered, but good luck finding a T on this part... Any ideas of how to solve this?

 

I guessing that isn't a factory ignition rotor. Many aftermarket advancers don't have the stock markings on them.

The easiest way is to put a stock one on. Set the cams & crank to all the correct marks. Then swap the stock one out for the aftermarket one.

 

Looking at a stock rotor. It would appear that the T mark is exactly 180 degrees across from the crank key cutout.

 

You, sir, are a genius. Thanks!