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CCT Replacement (fix the engine rattle for good)

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Old Nov 21, 2010 | 01:10 AM
  #71  
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hay i am replacing my cct on my 929 i need some help on getting to the bolt on the side close to the frame my socket doesnt fit even with a swivel i cant seem to get to it and all my farings and my tank are off my hands dont fit to grab it eather how do you get it out.......also does the motor halfto be top dead center when you do this?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 05:15 PM
  #72  
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Hay sand man i also had a ? does the bike halfto be T.D.C when installing the cct or can i just install it and adjust it and go? And is there a special tool to get to bolt near the frame on a 929 its a bitch to get to thanks
 
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 06:06 PM
  #73  
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Engine position doesn't matter, cam chain tension doesn't change when the crank rotates.

As for the bolt I'm not familiar with the 929... If you send me a picture I might have an idea for you.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 07:45 PM
  #74  
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I'm thinking about doing this to my CBR to get rid of the noise! The thing is, mine doesn't always do it when started from cold. Sometimes if I'm out a ride and stop somewhere for maybe 10-30minutes and start it again, it starts making the dreaded noise. So when it's intermittent like that, how do you know how to set up the manual CCT properly?

Edit: I'm from the UK, are these only available in the US? Also, I can get a OEM one from here: http://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/p...t_14550MV9671/ I wonder if the problem has been fixed with this newer model?
 

Last edited by StevenF; Dec 21, 2010 at 07:59 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 09:37 PM
  #75  
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The OEM ones will always wear out and begin to fail... You're better off tracking down a manual CCT.

When you are replacing the CCT, it does not matter if your bike makes the noise constantly, intermittently or not at all. If you follow the procedure posted here it will work out.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 05:33 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Sand.Man
The OEM ones will always wear out and begin to fail... You're better off tracking down a manual CCT.

When you are replacing the CCT, it does not matter if your bike makes the noise constantly, intermittently or not at all. If you follow the procedure posted here it will work out.
Thanks for your reply. Hopefully when the snow+ice is away I can get out on it and see if it does need changed or not!
 
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 02:49 PM
  #77  
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This is in regards to an F3 engine but its pretty much the same. I took out the auto cct without retracting it to try and fit on a manual cct that I found didn't fit. So I installed the auto cct back on fully extended and it wouldn't start. I borrowed a manual cct from a friend and opened up the cover on the pulse cover and set the #1 piston to top dead center. Readjusted the manual CCT that I'm borrowing and even though it had some trouble starting at first, it fired up after about the 5th try and it ran well. But then after about a minute or two while trying to let the battery recharge itself, I got the harley davidson effect. Im sure it would be a good decision to keep it on ice right now. I think I messed up pretty bad. It still runs so I still have hope though. Is there enough room to break open the valve cover to check the timing without dropping the engine? Is there something I'm missing or am i just screwed without having to replace the chain or guides? Also, while I was setting the engine to TDC, there was a click sound at about every 1/4 turn. Is this normal? I would appreciate some feedback.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 04:45 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by FLspeedracer
This is in regards to an F3 engine but its pretty much the same. I took out the auto cct without retracting it to try and fit on a manual cct that I found didn't fit. So I installed the auto cct back on fully extended and it wouldn't start. I borrowed a manual cct from a friend and opened up the cover on the pulse cover and set the #1 piston to top dead center. Readjusted the manual CCT that I'm borrowing and even though it had some trouble starting at first, it fired up after about the 5th try and it ran well. But then after about a minute or two while trying to let the battery recharge itself, I got the harley davidson effect. Im sure it would be a good decision to keep it on ice right now. I think I messed up pretty bad. It still runs so I still have hope though. Is there enough room to break open the valve cover to check the timing without dropping the engine? Is there something I'm missing or am i just screwed without having to replace the chain or guides? Also, while I was setting the engine to TDC, there was a click sound at about every 1/4 turn. Is this normal? I would appreciate some feedback.
I can't remember, but aren't there lines for both the crank and the Cams to match up so that you know your timing is correct?
 
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Old Jan 29, 2011 | 05:01 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Dissevered
I can't remember, but aren't there lines for both the crank and the Cams to match up so that you know your timing is correct?
Yup. Thats what i used to get it to TDC
 
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 11:14 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by FLspeedracer
Yup. Thats what i used to get it to TDC
If you did that then your timing should be fine unless your chain jumped, which you should be able to see if you checked your cam/crank lines again, or you hooked your coils up incorrectly.

As for any clicking, its been a while since I was tinkering with my valves so I don't remember anything like that.
 
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