So your bike is making a funny sound is it?

The intention of this thread is to clean up the F2 section of the never dieing CCT reposts.

Almost all Honda’s have a few common shortcomings in their design, some of these include charging systems and most commonly the Hydraulic Cam Chain Tensioner (commonly referred to as the CCT).



This tensioner is actuated by oil pressure, and while it is a great concept it is prone to failure.

The most common evidence of a failing CCT is a prominent rattle or ticking noise coming from the right side of the engine on a cold start (often mistaken for a noisy valve train), and the noise will go away when the engine reaches operating temperature and oil pressure is revived.

A completely seized CCT will always rattle.

In most cases replacing the old CCT with a new OEM hydraulic tensioner will yield unfathomable frustration when you go through the trouble of buying and replacing it - and the damn thing STILL rattles.

The BEST way to cure the problem is to purchase an “APE” manual CCT found on Ebay and other online retailers for about $50-70. You can also try your local dealership, but expect to pay more.





INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

Step 1: Remove right side tail fairing and right side lower fairing

Step 2: Locate the OEM CCT

Step 3: Remove black engine mount bracket if obstructing access

Step 4: Remove the 2 bolts securing the CCT to the engine

Step 5: If equipped with a steel gasket, clean gasket and save. If a paper gasket is present, scrape off gasket material being careful not to drop any into the opening or damage the gasket surface.

Step 6: Back the tensioner bolt all the way out on your new APE manual CCT, and apply a dab of white lithium grease or assembly lube to the end of the bolt.

Step 7: Install the new CCT and steel gasket or new paper gasket and secure it with the 2 bolts from the OEM CCT.

Step 8: Thread the tensioner bolt in FINGER TIGHT until your fingers cannot turn it any further (never use a wrench for this step)

Step 9: Lock the tensioner with the lock nut

Step 10: With the transmission in neutral and a cold engine, start the bike up

Step 11: If the rattle is present, unlock the lock nut and thread the tensioner clockwise until the noise is gone, then thread clockwise ¼ turn further

Step 11B: If the rattle is no longer present when engine is first started, unlock the lock nut and turn the tensioner counter-clockwise until the noise returns, then thread clockwise until no longer present and ¼ further

Step 12: Lock the lock nut, turn off the bike and put fairings back on.

 

just in time, I have my ape manual cct sitting right in front of me, this will help out much.

 

Rock on and thanks for the help! Read plenty of others but this is the newest. One thing I will say is do not tighten down both bolts, leave em bout 1/4 in out and probably start with the top bolt first. PITA to get the top bolt in when the bottom is there. Also don't tighten down the bolts before you turn the adjust in just a bit so it's past the mounting bracket, otherwise you can't twist the bolt end since it will get caught by the mounting bracket. Or I'm just unlucky which is quite possible... I definitely recommend the back out till you hear the rattling sound so you know what you're looking for, because the too tight sound is less obvious then the too loose sound.

Other than that, if you can't pull this one off, step away from the bike and return your tools because you are really gonna screw something up. Chances are you're a 12:00 flasher too

 

Nice post! Really sums up everything in a compact form. I had this problem 5 years ago with no problems to this day! Forget oem, get the ape

 

Im about to attempt to help a buddy replace his CCT with the recommended APE he purchased and was wondering about how much time this is going to take (in hours or beers)? Had someone tell me that a shop would charge nearly 1500 because the labor was extensive but from the sounds of it, it doesn't seem difficult at all. Im not too technically aware but can follow instructions and find my way through stuff fairly easy.

Anyone??

 

about 30min... charging $1500 in labor is laughable.

 

Whoever told you it would be $1500 from a dealer is sniffing paint

1 hour labor from a shop, probably take you 30 minutes or 2 beers.

 

Does this need to be adjusted periodically over time? Or once you set it, is it good to go for many miles (10k+)?

 

It should stay in spec unless the chain stretches or the tensioner backs off.

You'll hear the ticking again if it needs to be adjusted, but it doesn't hurt to re-set it every oil change just to be overly cautious.

 

I just got an f2 a month ago, and it sounded like a diesel engine, but thanks to the cbr forum, hersheys brilliant write up, and an ape cct... my bike is purring very nice. Thanks again guys.