How are you supposed to remove the float needle seat? On my '88 cbr1000 the seat is threaded into the body of the carb. I just got a '97 cbr600 and it looke like the seat is pressed in. I want to soak the carbs in some carb cleaner and I removed all the plastic and rubber parts except for the small fuel filter that is under the float seat. I'm thinking that if I soak the carbs without taking that filter off it is going to destroy it?

 

I don't recall whether it can be removed or not. I am going to guess and say it can't but I am not 100% sure. If you think there non metal parts do not soak. Just squirt carb cleaner in there and use a scotch bright pad or just compressed air. A quick douse of carb cleaner wont harm plastics or rubber but soaking sure will.

 

I believe on the carbs on my bike allowed me to pull everything out that i wanted too, idk it being a later model for you could be different. whether you should go about pulling the ones you have out sounds iffy, i wouldnt want to go about destroying parts on your carbs, that's just another headache.

 

I have had some weird idle issues and I think a miss, bike just doesn't sound right compared to other bikes I have heard, but it is rideable. I have never worked on carbs for any of my previous 4 cylinder bikes. So I think I am going to follow yalls "Texan here" advice and just get in there and do it. I am skeerd still though, not sure if the apartments will tow me for working on it.

Any suggestions or advice would help.

 

If its your first time working on carbs, you're probably going to be down for a couple of days. Make sure you have a safe place to stow all the parts you're going to have lying round.

 

yea I will pull of of the stuff to the patio storage if need be and setup a table for the operation. I am going to build a manometer for the carb sync.
I have rebuilt carbs for my dirt bikes but that was almost 30 years ago.
so I am counting this as a firstie.plus I see the bike has a slip on D&D and a uni airbox filter so I have got to see if it was jetted. I am also doing an oil change, gusset bearing tightning,and a spark plug change.
next payday going to buy some friction plates and new springs to make sure I am good for the clutch.
and my new faring should be in by then so I want to have all my maint done while the bike is naked.
this winter going to drop the motor and electrical sand down and powdercoat the frame swing arm wheels and engine casing black. while the motor is dropped check the valves and replace cct and guides. and replace the wheel, and gusset bearings. It all should be pretty cheap to do just time powdercoat machine is 59.00 at harbor frieght tools.

 

I took my time and made sure I built my homemade manometer first to sync the carbs after pulling them wow that was a learning experience building my own tool plus machining vacuum port adapters on my computer desk in my apt. I built some, and they will work, but not the fit and finish to leave them in full time.

Got the carbs off found that # 2 cylinder had zero screws in the boot clamps for the manifold #3 just had a lower screw. I found it was way easier to gently and I mean gently use a large mechanics pry bar to pop the carbs prior to removing the throttle cables. Of course loosen the clamps on the lower boots with a screwdriver and be very very careful on which points you use for leverage or you could destroy a carb.
This took 10 min maybe max. and yes you were right the bike has been down for 2 days because of work and lack of light when I get home.

IF and I mean IF the manometer works then I did document the process to build one just like it.

 

Pics are down temporarily. Had to change some things with my web space. Sorry guys!

 

After all this talk of sync-ing carbs you have me wondering. I have cleaned my carbs many times through the years (more than needed), but have never sync'd the carbs or noticed any obvious problems. What would be a probably cause for carbs to get out of sync?
And last question, in your pictures there is a shot of another breather hose (1) this would be the hose going to a smaller box off the rear of tube. That box contains a small filter substance or in my case use to contain a small filter substance. Due to deterioration my filter was sucked into the carbs. Is there some suitable replacement for this filter substance.

 

Hi,

My 94 F2 Has 3600 miles. I bought for 1200 on craigs list .crank case was full of gas. Got it running & it idles @1000 and sounds great but the first 2 carb slides or shutters do not open. They dont seem to be stuck I can open them by hand just as easily as the 2 that open, i think it is a vacume issue. Has any one ever seen this. Thank you. This is my 3rd bike,
I had an 87 f1 and loved it so I had high hopes for this low mile F2.