I did the carb clean today and found that the bike has a factorypro jet kit in it. that explains the jacked up screws.
I am not sure what stage kit this is as most of the kits have float bowl cover replacement screws.
It is running 130k mains for all 4 cylinders,, is that right? Shouldn't the inner cylinders be running richer? Also isn't 130 lean for a d&D and a uni filter but no airbox mod?
I also pulled the pilot screws and did the dremmel mod for a screwdriver.
I checked before pulling and the pilots are 3 half turns out from seating
The needle is set to 3 of five with a half clip spacer on the bottom.
So now I need to find the best starting point.
My initial issue was having to choke like crazy to start misssing badly 1k 5k range and popping on decelration most all ranges "lean"
and a random miss at times when other times it sounded fine.

Does anyone have a F2 factorypro set of instructions or richer main jets laying around?

As far as the sync tool that may have been my issue all along I dont know.
I was just going to sync them but after building the tool I had to know if it was jetted before I went and bought a kit.

 

I don't know starting points for jet kits off the top of my head, but you can always read your spark plugs for an idea of where to start.

 

I am not sure how important that foam is. Its just there to catch extra oil that comes from the engine breather tube. I am sure you could be cheap and throw some random foam in there if you want, as long as it is similar density to what was previously in there.

Or you can be **** and call a honda dealer.

 

Do they slide too easily? Open up the carbs and check the diaphragms for a crack or a hole. Your best bet for a bike that probably sat for a long time is to clean your carbs. It doesn't take long, and its nice to get it out of the way as it causes so many problems.

Also, how do you know the sliders don't move? did you run it w/o the air box on? Did you rev it up? The sliders barely move when only idling.

 

Thanks for response. I did have every thing off looking directly at them w/ the bike running and the bike will tach up to 14k with only the left 2 opening .they all feel the same when manipulated by hand. It just seems odd because it runs perfectly smooth through the whole range just no *****. + will not tach over 8k in 3rd gear and up.

 

well the first place to check is the diaphragms. do the 2 that don't move give the same resistance when you push on them?

They open simply from the vacuum created as air rushes passed the carbs and into the cylinder. If they won't move, then either there is no air moving (not likey seeing as how the bike runs) or a diaphragm is stuck/cracked.

 

OK ,
I got the carbs off Check
Disassemble carbs with some issues Check
Clean carbs and Reassemble with new allen bolts to replace all top, boot and float bowl screws even bought air compressor to do job right Check
Re install carbs on bike Check
Bike idles really good sounding but a miss still even wore than before above idle to 6k. Uhh Ohh.

Figure a syncing will do with new homeade sync tool "getting worse"
jack with the carbs and sync tool & I make it way worse and with all the starting and getting air into the sync tool I manage to kill the battery.

Get frustrated and just call it a night. Attack it today with valves in sync tool to cut the amount of vacuum going to tool and I manage to get bike to run. BUT and this is a big one The bike will not come down less than 2500 on a idle. I checked all of the cables to make sure I didn't bind something and they are all loose and It just idles insanely high and I can't adjust it.
I pull the carbs again to get at pilot screws and adjust them to 1& 1/4 Full turns out.put the carbs on and still runs high try to move the sync screws at all and the bike shoots up to 6 k !!!!!!!!!
So I shut it down put up the tools and am calling the instructor.

The service manual says squat about an initial setting for the sync screws even after disassembly. 1 other major concern the manual says #2 is the refrence carb but #3 is the one without a sync adjustment???? whats up wit that? did the previous owner maybe put them together wrong?
All of the float bowl screws were jacked & three boots didn't have most of the screws after his re jettig job so that seems plausible to me.
So do I just set the pilot screws to spec? Do I go less with them maybe just 1 half turn 180* ?
I am bout plunk down some serious cash on a 800 buck bike if I have to take it to a shop.
So where do I start to fix this calmity?
The carbs have factory pro 130k main 38 Kehlin other jets and needles at middle with a spacer.
MAn this is frustrating and the issue is prably the nut behind the wrench.

When people say 1 turn are they talking 180* or 360*

 

You do have an idle adjuster. When the bike is together, its the **** under your left leg while sitting on the bike. It comes out of the middle of the carbs. It basically sets how far open the throttle plates sit when the throttle is fully closed. A carb sync can change your idle speed. However I do forget which way to turn it in order to lower your idle. If you have the carbs off, you can see the throttle plates opening or closing very gradually.. you want to close yours, but just a little. you probably only need a full turn.

As for jetting or anything as far as I know lol... 1 turn = 360

Oh, and buy a trickle charger. These bikes don't recharge the battery unless you are riding. start/idle/shutoff just kills your battery.

 

The Idle adjuster was all of the way out almost falling out of the threaded hole.
I can open up the diapraghm slides to see the plates and adjust them to closed " thanks for that idea", as far as the battery I just hooked her up to my 2010 supercrew and that made sure I had a enough CCA.
when I RTFM the initial settings suggested are WAY off could the jet kit change that that big? it says like 2 and 3/4 turns on the pilot screws.
Also what abot the referencs carb being on the exact oppsite cylinder #2 being in #3 posistion? I pulled the airbox for easy access also could that have that big of an effect?
also I still have a miss but at different throttle and or sync settings it comes and goes so I dont think it is coils the plugs are new.
If need be I will pull the carbs again and reset pilot screws to factory specs.
Reprt to follow.

 

I don't know much about syncing, only had it done once by a friend... I don't think it would make a huge difference though changing a reference point.

Are you just idling and reving the bike without the airbox or riding? riding it w/o the airbox is bad news and will make a big difference. If not, and you are just idling it, don't even bother testing flat spots w/o riding it and getting it to norm temp.

Did messing with the idle screw fix anything?

BTW i have my needles all with the same clip position. Were any holes drilled into your air box to modify it? If so, I would get some epoxy and seal them up.

Returning the bike to stock or getting it close is always a good option.

I would start with the recommended fuel screw settings and test ride/check spark plugs from there to see if any changes need to be made.