no power, plz help
hey everyone im new to the threads but im in despertly need your help. i bought a 929 off craigslist about three moths ago, replaced the clutch becuase first 2 plates were shatterd. I havent had a problem out of the bike, i ride daily as long as it's 45f. i went out to warm the bike up today, turned on the key all my lights come on as always, fliped the kill switch, feul pump came on, hit the starter and the bike turned over for about 2 seconds and it was if some one turned off my key, all lights went out gauge doesnot work, have no power anywhere i figuerd it was the battery, so i checked it buy jumping the starter solinoid, the starter turned over fine just like always. i don't know what to do please helpwhen i turn my key to on and off position nothing happens no lights nothing, could it be the pickup in the bottem of my ingnition switch?i don't know much about these bikes, just know that i love riding it
If all the fuses are fine and absolutely nothing works it is likely your ignition switch. If you want to bypass it for testing purposes you'll need to unplug it at the harness. The switch side of the harness should have 4 wires. Red with a white stripe, black with a white stripe, black, and red with an orange stripe. The other side of that connector is what you want to deal with. Those 4 wires will be colored pink (P), blue with an orange stripe (Bu/O), red with a black stripe (Bl/R), and red (R).
P routes power to the ECU.
Bu/O gives power directly to the fan fuse.
Bl/R gives power to all the other fuses except for the clock fuse.
R gets power from the main 30amp fuse located at the starter relay. Power goes from the battery, through the fuse, and splits. One side goes to the clock fuse so the time is not reset, the other puts 12V into the ignition switch.
Do this:
If that main 30amp fuse is good then you should have +12VDC at the switch from that red wire. Test it for voltage. If there is 12V, rig something up to connect the red wire to the black and red wire. This should allow everything to work except the fan and ecu. If the starter switch works and the headlights work when it's jumped, but not when it's plugged in you need a new switch. I'm not 100% sure that the wire to the ecu is a 12V, so don't twist them all together and try to run the bike without confirming it. It would be easy to fit a 5V regulator inside the switch to keep from being able to hot wire the bike. It would suck to fry something and need a new ecu if that's the case. Hopefully this will help a bit.
P routes power to the ECU.
Bu/O gives power directly to the fan fuse.
Bl/R gives power to all the other fuses except for the clock fuse.
R gets power from the main 30amp fuse located at the starter relay. Power goes from the battery, through the fuse, and splits. One side goes to the clock fuse so the time is not reset, the other puts 12V into the ignition switch.
Do this:
If that main 30amp fuse is good then you should have +12VDC at the switch from that red wire. Test it for voltage. If there is 12V, rig something up to connect the red wire to the black and red wire. This should allow everything to work except the fan and ecu. If the starter switch works and the headlights work when it's jumped, but not when it's plugged in you need a new switch. I'm not 100% sure that the wire to the ecu is a 12V, so don't twist them all together and try to run the bike without confirming it. It would be easy to fit a 5V regulator inside the switch to keep from being able to hot wire the bike. It would suck to fry something and need a new ecu if that's the case. Hopefully this will help a bit.
i would of agreed with the fuse suggestion, thats why im glad there are people on this forum who are more mechanically sond and capable than me. i just a monkey that turns wrinches anything electrical and i usually opt out for the local shop.
Thanks vwmaniacvr6, I went out to see if there was power going to the switch like you said, and i figured i would try it first i put the key in and the bike came on with no problem at all, i let it warm up to around 170f and went to take off didn't make it out of my 10ft and it did it agin, pushed the bike back to it garge and it came back on and styed on.
realy confused, now hope its not a wireing issue. could that still be my ignition switch?
thanks agin for the great advice vwmaniacvr6
realy confused, now hope its not a wireing issue. could that still be my ignition switch?
thanks agin for the great advice vwmaniacvr6
It could be the switch, but it's more likely a pinched or broken wire. I had a problem where if I accelerated too hard my bike would shut down for 1-2 seconds and come back on. It was also blowing the ignition fuse on a weekly basis. I poked around and couldn't find anything solid other than a section of the harness that was pinched between the motor and frame. I dropped the engine a few inches, pulled the harness out, and bolted everything back up. I've never had the problem since and I haven't been able to locate any broken or shorted wires. Haven't even blown a fuse in at least 4500miles. I can't explain it, but sometimes it's just something weird like that. It just makes it 10x harder to trace when it starts working while your testing.
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