so is that the switch that i need to replace??? the one i am pointing to in the picture???? im guessing i have to do it really quick so the antifreeze dosnt spill out???

 

about the spark plugs::::


i am going to order iridium NGK plugs.... here are my questions..

1-how many plugs should i order?
2- do i need wires too or can i just get plugs?
3-do i need a special tool to remove/install them?
4- anything else i miss , or need to know????


UPDATE:!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

so far this is what i ordered::::::

4- NGK Iridium spark plugs
1- Fan switch assembly (SWITCH ASSY., THERMO)
1- O-RING (13.5X1.4)
1- Cycle Logic Engine Ice Coolant *(http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/4/72/7374/ITEM/Cycle-Logic-Engine-Ice-Coolant.aspx?WT.ac=SLIsearch)
1- K&N Filter**INTSTALLED TODAY**


***K&N Filter- Installed***
***Fan Switch & O-RING- NEED WALKTHROUGH INSTALLING ***
***CYCLE LOGIC ENGINE ICE COOLANT- NEED WALKTHROUGH REPLACING***

~~~WHAT KIND OF TOOL DO I NEED TO PURCHASE TO MAKE THE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF SPARK PLUGS EASY AS CAN BE!~~~


THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP AND GUIDENCE THROUGH THIS PROJECT!!!! I GENUINELY APPRICIATE IT, SPECIAL THANKS TO DEMON, FOR THE STEP BY STEP WALKTHROUGH

& FOUL LANGUAGE SUPERVISION!!! LOL JK

 

Ok so someone tell me how do I get to the spark plugs??

 

Take this opportunity to change/flush your radiator. You are stripping down anyway, might as well drain the radiator, flush, install new fan switch ( should be in range of $22-30 ), refill with fresh coolant... When installing the new fan switch, some plumber's tape on the thread will come on handy...

 

remove the radiator mount bolts an drop the radiator out of the way for spark plug access. from there you can get to the coils and plugs. its a very tight squeeze to get them out, but with some broken knuckles, they will come out.

the fan switch seals wit the oring. dont put anything on the threads. it needs the contact with the metal to work properly.

consider buying, or at least downloading, the factory manual. it will tell you and show pictures of everything you will ever want to know about the bike.

 

If I recall correctly, there is more than 1 wire going to the switch? It might not be as bad as you think. Most ECM sensors are not referenced to engine or chassis ground, but have a separate ECM ground wire routed to the sensor. The CTS, MAT/IAT, auxilliary oil pressure sensor (for the fuel pump), and detonation sensor will all work without an engine ground.

The auxilliary fan switch (if you have dual electric fans or TBI), temperature sensor for the gauge, and oil pressure gauge sensor may require a good engine ground, but you still might be grounded if the sensor threads have cut through the PTFE tape. Just don't overkill, 1 or 2 thin layer work well with these type of pipe fitting. If only using to O ring, make sure to fasten carefully so that ring flush.

There is a pretty good chance that everything will work correctly, since the tape will get displaced as the threads is tightened. I just replace my sensor 9 months ago, switch works well, no leak.

Keep us posted...most importantly to have fun.

 

So should I just drain te radiator once the switch gets here?? That way I can start fresh with new coolant, and new switch??? Also can't find the drain plug u were talking about for the coolant...

Spark plugs look redicliously hard to get to that's gonna be the worst probably =/

 

There is a drain bolt just above the reserve cap, & the other is on the bottom right side of the water pump itself. It should have a sealing washer on it as well. Drain the coolant & start fresh when the new sensor gets there. Glad your making progress.

 

Plugs are (IMR8C-9H) or (IMR9C-9H). Do you have the tool kit that came with the bike? If so there is a plug tool in the kit that works great.

 

these are the drains.

replace the switch, change coolant, and do the plugs all at the same time.