Yeah, without that screen, when you're on reserve, you'll feed any tank sediment right into the carbs, not to mention any little stuff floating around, even when not on reserve.

 

my petcock doesnt have a screen or an o ring, it never has but then again it has to be really tight or it comes loose and leaks or just in general it leaks when in the off position spent awhile trying to think of how i can produce a straight line with an on/off tap seeing as its a race bike i dont need reserve

oh and whats wrong with the F3?

 

https://cbrforum.com/forum/cbr-600f3...rattle-147661/

link to the thread in the F3 section regarding the problem with that thing.

Ok, so,
Fork Stachions, who knows the deal?


Two of my tubes have 2 holes in the bottom, the other two have 4?
does this matter, bar this they are identical??


This is damage caused by a PO, i assume they used a screwdriver to get the seal out... Are they useable or not?




I was thinking about giving them a rub down with a very fine rubbing compound... is this advisable or not? i want to try and protect my new seals as much as possible.

 

That IS interesting, and I would like to know what you've got there, exactly, as well.

What I DO know, is this: those stanchions are not from '91-'93 era F2 forks, which have the holes much lower, just above the lower bushing, and were the only part number available for that era of F2, meaning what was originally installed.

From the '94 F2, to the '96 F3, there are two different part numbers currently available for replacement, and the holes for both of those part numbers are up higher, like what you have pictured, roughly 1 3/4 inches above the lower bushings, but I've never paid attention to the number of holes when working on them!

Finally, '97-'98 used one of the two offerings available for the '94 - '96 forks.

I would definitely like to know the story on the differing number of holes, just because I'm curious.

Looking at pictures only, and not holding them in my hands, I can't say for absolute certain that those pipes are not salvageable, but I'm farily certain they are scrap metal... I will say that I personally would not use them.
True, you could smooth the edges of those gouges and delay the process of tearing up the new seals, but by virtue of the depth of those nicks alone, they're just fork oil leaks waiting to happen... I wouldn't waste any money on seals/wipers, and the time to put those particular forks back together, just to surely end up with leaks.

 

ok, well im going to use the ones with 4x holes in, as they are relatively unmarked. i cant jusitfy going and buying yet more. Ill have 10 x forks if i do that if you include the ones on the broken F3!
So ill use them and see what happens.

Any idea what the holes are for anyways?

 

EDIT!

Using the forks with 2x holes. As they are the unmanaged ones.
Confusing myself.

JNS - ill take a picture of the springs that came in the forks.

 

ha.

I think i know what is going to be said next

 

Interesting... different progressive springs, though we don't know what's what with either type, and one set is missing preload collars!

 

so, im ready to rebuild these things.

simply put...Which set should I use?

 

Ha!! Simply put maybe, but not so simply answered... you've just about got too damn much stuff to choose from!!

First, obviously the gouged stanchions are out, as well as whichever stanchions were part of that set where the lower bushing got yanked through everything above it - I wouldn't use any part of those lowers, or the bushings and backup rings, unless you replace the bushings/rings.

And, springs... I have no blooming idea, as we don't know what you've got there!!
The springs all have the same amount of "linear" winds, but when you get to the progressive portion, they differ in the amount of winds, but since one set has preload collars, and the other doesn't, there is already load on the springs with the collars, so it's hard to judge what the real difference is in the lenght of the progressive winds, andwhich might give a more "plush" ride versus a firmer ride... I wish you at least knew whether or not all those springs are OEM, or if any are aftermarket progressive springs.

With the springs, you can change them out without having to separate the lowers, so you might have to just run with both, at the same preload setting, and see which ones feel better in what range of riding conditions.
To a degree, you could tell a tiny bit about how it might go, by putting one cartridge together with one type of spring, and a preload collar, and dropping it in the forks, and do the same with the other spring... don't bother with oil, or even putting the bolt through the lowers to the bottom of the cartridge, just set them each in a fork, make sure the preload adjuster is the same on both caps, and see how each feel, as you compress them with your hands at the fork cap.