Fox Shock.......The reservoir is "compression" 8 settings, 1 = soft, 8 = hard, general default starting point is #3.
The "rebound is the blue nubbly ring at the bottom of the shock, above the mounting point. It has 36 settings, counter clock wise is more= hard, default setting is 16 clicks out from full hard. Dont force these adjustment, you could damage the shock.
Before you do the above adjustments you should set your "static sag & rider sag". The shock also has a "ride height" adjustment. It should be at least as long as the factory shock. I wouldnt lengthen it no more than 3mm, which then equals 9mm of added seat height, which allows the bike to turn quicker & easier but to much added sacrifices rear traction while accelerating when dragging a knee. Enjoy.

 

Thanks for the info! I actually I need to drop mine a bit. The PO was about 80 pounds heavier than myself and it rides a tad too high for my liking. I can still flatfoot on one side while having maybe half of my foot down on the other side. It's just a bit uncomfortable on the family jewels.

 

You dont neccessaryily (i cant spell) have to "drop it". You could back off the preload some. I would take the shock off and see how long it is from the center to center mounts. If you make it to short or to long the bike wont handle properly. I can get you a factory measurement eye center to eye center and you can go from there.

 

Progress update on the bike. After reading more I decided to do a few things before I do a carb rebuild. First, I cleaned up a lot of stuff with the airbox off. The air filter looked brand new but I washed it anyway. I did some general cleanup inside the frame and around the motor for no reason other than I felt like it. I also drained the tank and added some fresh 92 octane gas, and 4 ounces of Berryman's B12 since everyone seems to swear by it. I put it all back together to run it for a bit and ride it around the neighborhood since today was probably one of the last days of nice weather I'll have for a while.

I started it up, warmed it, then slid the choke off and went for a ride around the neighborhood. Sure enough...just like everyone said. Within 10 minutes or so my idle went from about 1.5k to 3k. I adjusted it back down to 1.5k and about 10 minutes later it crept up to about 2.5k. I adjusted it down again and this time it stayed right where I put it at 1.5k. I noted a MUCH smoother idle and a MUCH improved throttle response. Before I had to roll throttle on rather slowly or it would bog down a bit, but today it was much more crisp. I'm a very happy dude

All that said, I'm still going to rebuild the carb. That choke plunger for the #2 cylinder is still not retracting all the way, and I'm not confident that it was properly jetted by the PO for the straight exhaust and the Colorado altitude. There's a shop here that will throw it on the dyno and tune it/jet it for $300 flat so I'll probably take it there.

The only other major thing to do at that point is the fork seals. I'm sure I COULD do it myself, but I don't know if I'll have the time and a different local shop quoted me $200 out the door. I guess I'll decide when I get to that point.

 

Okay so wifey wanted to go to bed early which means I got to start tearing the bike down again. Two big questions:

1) how the heck am I supposed to get the carbs off with than big bracket in the way on the left side of the carbs?

2) That bracket on the left side appears to be protecting some sort of sensor. What sensor is that? I broke mine clean off so it looks like half of the sensor is still in the carbs, and the boot and wires just sheared right off. Not cool.

 

TPS.........throttle position sensor.

 

Oh right...duh. Any ideas on how to get the broken part out? I'm also unable to find a specific part number anywhere. I've seen a few online that look like the one I broke, but I don't want to buy something that isn't correct.

 

Okay so after some of my own research, it seems that the F2 did not have a TPS but that the F3 did. So I think I have F3 carbs on my F2.

This also means that in theory my F2 doesn't give a crap about the TPS, right?

 

From what I've read on a forum, somewhere, you are correct. Also, F3 carbs are 2mm bigger than F2 carbs. I'm starting to wonder which airbox you have since F2 airbox wont bolt on the F3 carbs, at least without some modification.

 

I'm starting to wonder how my franken-bike even runs haha.