That grease is freaking magic. There's a hundred uses for it. For example...a dab on a screwdriver will hold a screw in place so you can start it in a spot where you can't get your hands. I also use it to smear on the foam surrounds of car stereo speakers...helps keep the foam from deteriorating from heat and sunlight. Any O-ring anywhere that gets disassembled gets smeared with this stuff on re-assembly. The rubber diaphragm on the top of many motorcycle carbs that pulls up the needle jet. I also use it on small paper gaskets - last use was on the gasket for the cam chain tensioner for a buddy's F3. Will be using on mine when I install a manual CCT this winter.

There's a set of F3 carbs on eBay right now for a reasonable price...#222601845224. Between those and what you got, I'd think you ought to be able to get something working.

 

Woohoo, I finally got the busted TPS off! I took it to work and heated up the screws with a 1200F degree heat gun and then got a nice set of vice grips on and they threaded right out. The screws had locktite on them which is why they were such a pain.

Now the only thing left to do is put all the new parts on and get the bike back together for a few weekends of tuning.

 

Awesome!

FYI, if you don't want to fool with trying to repair that float bowl, $30 and you can get another one.

eBay #253124758019.

And do yourself a huge favor...replace all 12 of those Phillips-head bowl screws with socket-head screws. They're M3, but I can't remember the length. 12 or 16mm, but check for yourself.

 

I'm going to try my best to repair it. If I can avoid spending any more money, my wallet (and my wife) will be much happier. Happy wife, happy life

 

Meant to mention that I usually hate green on bikes (talking to you, Kawi), but for some reason, nice shade of green on yours. But, it's missing something:

Modern version:


Old skool:


Really old skool (my fave...the RC30 used this style):


One of those on either side of the tank and you're stylin'. Just don't get 'em backwards like I see way too often.

 

I'm not planning on adding anything to the tank, but I am planning on eventually getting a nice Honda sticker for the lower fairings.

 

After a much needed family vacation I've continued to work on my bike and have made great progress.

I finished rebuilding the carbs last week and have the bike back together ready for a tune. While prepping to tune last night, a few questions came to my mind:

1) With the idle fuel air screws, what constitutes a "turn?" I assumed that a full turn was 360 degrees, but I'm hesitant now that a turn may actually be 180 degrees. If that's the case, I turned my screws way too far out

2) I notched the screws so I could adjust them with a flat blade, but how on earth am I going to be able to adjust them with the carbs on the bike? The only thing I've been able to think of so far is a long handle ratchet with a flathead socket on the end. Do you guys do it any differently?

3) Does it matter if the airbox is on or off for the tune? I assumed it would be better to have it ON so the bike is tuned to the airflow it will actually get at idle. Is there a case for tuning it with the airbox off?

TIA. Cheers!

 

Hi Rybo.

Glad to hear you are making progress.

1. Yes a turn is 360 degrees.

2. I'm not familiar with the carbs on your bike, but on my old 1000F I used to use very long screwdriver.

3. I think air box on.

 

Sweet, thanks! I set mine to the manual recommended 1.5 turns out and I have a suspicion that it will be pretty close to ideal given that I live at high altitude, combined with the K&N air filter and straight exhaust.

As for the screws, they're on the bottom of the carbs and there's only maybe 4 inches of usable space beneath them. Definitely no way I'm getting a screw driver in there.

 

i have an f3, so they are similar. You can buy the D-shaped socket for it and it will help some, but there's no easy way. I even have a speciality wrench from motion pro and it is still a major pain.